legacycentral bbs

What the title says. I am thinking I will put locktite on the crank pulley most definitely, but what about everything else inside there. I have the FSM for hte belt change, and water/oil pump change so has all torque specs, just wondering if EVERYTHING needs to have locktite? I am not touching my oil pump, but I will be doing my waterpump. Is 7 ft-lb's actually the torque spec for the water pump bolts? Idk why but i keep thinking that is low. Before starting the job, going to get my torque wrench checked out as well.

I dont generally loctite anything with a timing belt job.

ok perfect. Just want to verify that torque spec. Suppsedely 7 ft-lbs for hte water pump bolts and 4.7 ft lbs on the oil pump? Going to be going in there making sure everything is atleast at that torque spec.

those bolt on the water pump are quite small, they can't take very much torque

Waterpump bolts are 8ft lb. Any more than that and they will break. I tried to torque one down to 10 ft.lbs once since that was the lowest my wrench would go and I snapped the bolt before I even got close...

dont forget your dealing with aluminum

Definitely wont. Really need to flush out my coolant system. Was draining out the rad through the drain at the bottom, was very white at the bottom for a bit, then it started coming out nice green like it should. Might explain my car overheating alot?? I can't imagine when I pull out the the thermostat and when I start flushing out the engine and rad with distiled water. From what I can tell definitely need new cam seals. In debate on crank seals. I am thinking ill just do them anyway. This is my first timing belt job and water pump so going to be fun =D

I wouldnt use anything more than blue loctite on any of those bolts. I would NOT USE RED!

The crank pulley bolt, if you can torque it to about 140-150 ft lbs then I wouldn't even really bother with loctite. But then again at least that is steel on steel. Hell no on all the ones that are a steel bolt into AL.

run some coolant cleaner/flush solvent through when you do flush out the whole system.

Although blue Loctite isn't needed on the small bolts, it won't hurt a thing if you're using the right amount. In fact, Loctite is a pretty decent anti-seize and can help keep the bolts from galling in the aluminum. I personally don't bother, partially because I live in Colorado where corrosion isn't really a concern.

The crank bolt is a different story...I always clean it and the crank threads well and use red Loctite. Yes, RED...I have seen more than a few EJ crank bolts (and other cars) work loose that were supposedly tightened to, or beyond factory specs. I also block the flywheel and tighten the crank bolt as much as I possibly can with a breaker bar. I've never had a crank bolt loosen up this way (so far, lol), and I can still get the bolt out with a 1/2" impact wrench.

I know others may have different methods and/or results...just sharing what works for me.

Its ok to use it on the tensioner bolts and other hardware that is responsible for the integrity of the serpentine system, but its also ok to forget/not use it.