legacycentral bbs

1 A good cheap alternative to a bleed valve is simply to Tee off to a 4 foot length of vacuum hose that is open to the atmosphere. A long length will have so much restriction to flow that it will barely bleed off boost at all. Just keep snipping it shorter to decrease resistance and increase boost. If you want to be a purist, put a little check valve in the end so that it will not be a vacuum leak and dirt entry source when not under boost. You can also put a blob of oiled foam rubber on the end to serve as an air filter. This technique is very cheap and I have found it to be more dependable than any of the many bleed valves that I have used.

2. I was told that my Cylinder #2 had low compression as well. Since my car used no oil and ran well, I took it to another mechanic for a $50 bleed-down test. My engine was fine. The cylinder adjacent to the windshield washer fluid reservour is nearly impossible to compression test unless the fluid reservour is removed first. Another point to ponder is te fact that genuine turbo (closed-deck) engines have an oil spray system that cools the undersides of the pistons. An untrained mechanic will see or feel the oil splashing when the oil fill cap is off and misdiagnose it as blow-by. It happened to me.

eGroups Sponsor
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=169066.1281467.28 ... EY=ECAALR4> Click Here!

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

I assume your bleed valve / hose is in the wastgate actuator (anywhere else
doesn't make sense0... and Yes, the open hose trick does work.... and Yes,
there are many brands of bleed valves that are difficult to control.

I will shortly post a more elaborate pneumatic circuit modification in the
File section, that provides very precise control.

John Gillon
www.clubsub.org.nz


----- Original Message -----
From: William D. Robinson <vultureboy@mindspring.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 2:38 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Poor Man's Boost Control and Dead Cylinder


1 A good cheap alternative to a bleed valve is simply to Tee off to a 4
foot length of vacuum hose that is open to the atmosphere. A long length
will have so much restriction to flow that it will barely bleed off boost at
all. Just keep snipping it shorter to decrease resistance and increase
boost. If you want to be a purist, put a little check valve in the end so
that it will not be a vacuum leak and dirt entry source when not under
boost. You can also put a blob of oiled foam rubber on the end to serve as
an air filter. This technique is very cheap and I have found it to be more
dependable than any of the many bleed valves that I have used.

2. I was told that my Cylinder #2 had low compression as well. Since my
car used no oil and ran well, I took it to another mechanic for a $50
bleed-down test. My engine was fine. The cylinder adjacent to the
windshield washer fluid reservour is nearly impossible to compression test
unless the fluid reservour is removed first. Another point to ponder is te
fact that genuine turbo (closed-deck) engines have an oil spray system that
cools the undersides of the pistons. An untrained mechanic will see or feel
the oil splashing when the oil fill cap is off and misdiagnose it as
blow-by. It happened to me.



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

i have an 'dual boost' pnuematic bleed valve made by Festo and it works
perfectly every time. the dual boost is switched via a electronic solanoid
which is fixed to the bleed valve.
can switch between 6psi and whatever you like on the high boost setting. it
is adjustable. i run it at 16psi.
rod.
ps. can supply part no if needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "JohnnyG" <grilla@ihug.co.nz>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Poor Man's Boost Control and Dead Cylinder


> I assume your bleed valve / hose is in the wastgate actuator (anywhere
else
> doesn't make sense0... and Yes, the open hose trick does work.... and Yes,
> there are many brands of bleed valves that are difficult to control.
>
> I will shortly post a more elaborate pneumatic circuit modification in the
> File section, that provides very precise control.
>
> John Gillon
> www.clubsub.org.nz
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: William D. Robinson <vultureboy@mindspring.com>
> To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 2:38 PM
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Poor Man's Boost Control and Dead Cylinder
>
>
> 1 A good cheap alternative to a bleed valve is simply to Tee off to a 4
> foot length of vacuum hose that is open to the atmosphere. A long length
> will have so much restriction to flow that it will barely bleed off boost
at
> all. Just keep snipping it shorter to decrease resistance and increase
> boost. If you want to be a purist, put a little check valve in the end so
> that it will not be a vacuum leak and dirt entry source when not under
> boost. You can also put a blob of oiled foam rubber on the end to serve
as
> an air filter. This technique is very cheap and I have found it to be
more
> dependable than any of the many bleed valves that I have used.
>
> 2. I was told that my Cylinder #2 had low compression as well. Since my
> car used no oil and ran well, I took it to another mechanic for a $50
> bleed-down test. My engine was fine. The cylinder adjacent to the
> windshield washer fluid reservour is nearly impossible to compression test
> unless the fluid reservour is removed first. Another point to ponder is
te
> fact that genuine turbo (closed-deck) engines have an oil spray system
that
> cools the undersides of the pistons. An untrained mechanic will see or
feel
> the oil splashing when the oil fill cap is off and misdiagnose it as
> blow-by. It happened to me.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com