Ok,
Today was an interesting day... Started the removal of the engine on my legacy.... I got it down everything separated.. the turbo from the down pipe, the bell housing all the vacuum hoses... Hook the hoist up and find out that I need two new engine mounts... (both Broken) and then we cant get the engine free... try jacking up the transmission... still nothing... any tips... tricks or ideas?
Zach
Need help seperating engine from tranny
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Need help seperating engine from tranny
http://www.zacharymonroe.com
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
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92ss satinsvoice
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PhyrraM wrote:Broken mounts are common.
If it's a 5-speed turbo Legacy.....did you pull the clutch release fork pin?
yep yep
Andy
94 L n/a 5spd, Rip
92 ss burgundy, weekend toy - owner since 2006
mods: too much to list, lost track after $16,000
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93 L wagon - Sold (in the family)
97 OBW LTD - Sold (in the family)
88 Leon GL Hatchback - DD
94 L n/a 5spd, Rip
92 ss burgundy, weekend toy - owner since 2006
mods: too much to list, lost track after $16,000
91 ss champagne - Rip
93 L wagon - Sold (in the family)
97 OBW LTD - Sold (in the family)
88 Leon GL Hatchback - DD
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Matt Monson
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I've retitled your thread. In future please try to choose a title that let's people know what the topic is before they click on the thread.
Your problem is the guide pins at 3 and 9 o'clock. They are rusted in place. Some PB blaster soaking can help. Heat can also sometimes do the trick. On really stubborn ones, I use a paint scraper to get the two to start to seperate and then work a screwdriver in between the two bellhousings.
This isn't like the seal in the casehalves of the engine or some other sealing face. Other than cosmetics, you don't have to worry about damaging the mating faces. You can beat them up and still have everything work fine.
Sometimes when they are really super stubborn I drop the dust shield on the bottom (two 10mm) and get a prybar in there between the two of them.
Also, dropping the assembly off the cherry picker onto the crossmember a couple of times can sometimes knock them loose. Bottomline is you just have to work it for a bit and get aggressive with it.
Your problem is the guide pins at 3 and 9 o'clock. They are rusted in place. Some PB blaster soaking can help. Heat can also sometimes do the trick. On really stubborn ones, I use a paint scraper to get the two to start to seperate and then work a screwdriver in between the two bellhousings.
This isn't like the seal in the casehalves of the engine or some other sealing face. Other than cosmetics, you don't have to worry about damaging the mating faces. You can beat them up and still have everything work fine.
Sometimes when they are really super stubborn I drop the dust shield on the bottom (two 10mm) and get a prybar in there between the two of them.
Also, dropping the assembly off the cherry picker onto the crossmember a couple of times can sometimes knock them loose. Bottomline is you just have to work it for a bit and get aggressive with it.
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
Its separated... but will not come more than an inch or so apart.... and we were beating on it.. Which reminds me I need to put up a parts needed post.... I need a coolant reservoir for the top of the engine now. 
Pull the clutch fork? is that something that it is needed to get this engine out?
Pull the clutch fork? is that something that it is needed to get this engine out?
http://www.zacharymonroe.com
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
You don't have to take it completely out, but you need to take it out of the ears on the throwout bearing.xoomer wrote:Pull the clutch fork? is that something that it is needed to get this engine out?
This "pin" needs to come out to free the fork. It can be a real pain sometimes.
Matthew aka F[b][color=red]k[/color][/b]yx
1991 Legacy Sport Sedan "Jillian" - [url=http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=39548]EJ20G swap[/url]
1991 Legacy Sport Sedan "Jillian" - [url=http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=39548]EJ20G swap[/url]
Hahaha I ran into this same problem about a year ago, posted the same question and got the same answer. The engine will come apart extremely easily once you pull that out 
-Aaron
2000 Audi S4 - 2.7L Twin-turbo, 6 Speed
[quote="evolutionmovement"]It was me. And those are my balls. Happy Sunday![/quote]
2000 Audi S4 - 2.7L Twin-turbo, 6 Speed
[quote="evolutionmovement"]It was me. And those are my balls. Happy Sunday![/quote]
This is what I have for a pin so Apparently sticking a bolt in there is not an option what do I do?? I got the engine out... when I took the starter out I just unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel and was able to get it out...
what do I do?? I got the engine out... when I took the starter out I just unbolted the pressure plate from the flywheel and was able to get it out...http://www.zacharymonroe.com
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
RSS O'Reilly Auto Parts.
My Stable,
'91 T-Leg, '83 Brat, '2x88 XT6 Auto, 87 XTT
Ouch. That's pretty wasted.
Take a good sharp punch and make a good sized dimple near the outer edge. Place your puch in the dimple at about a 45 degree angle and whack it counterclockwise. With a touch of luck it will break free and then you can most likely spin it out with your finger or a pair of channel locks.
Get a new one to install.
FYI, once everything is taken apart, there is a retainer on the back of the throwout bearing that needs to be slipped forward. Once that is done then the thowout bearing will slide out of the pressure plate. Reassemle the (new?) throwout bearing on the input shaft and release fork and replace the pin. The throwout bearing and pressure plate will lock together automatically when the engine is replaced.
Take a good sharp punch and make a good sized dimple near the outer edge. Place your puch in the dimple at about a 45 degree angle and whack it counterclockwise. With a touch of luck it will break free and then you can most likely spin it out with your finger or a pair of channel locks.
Get a new one to install.
FYI, once everything is taken apart, there is a retainer on the back of the throwout bearing that needs to be slipped forward. Once that is done then the thowout bearing will slide out of the pressure plate. Reassemle the (new?) throwout bearing on the input shaft and release fork and replace the pin. The throwout bearing and pressure plate will lock together automatically when the engine is replaced.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
You need a 10mm allen wrench or allen socket.
There are usually VERY tight if they haven't been attended to regularly. I've broken 3/8 ratchets loosening them. Get a 1/2 drive socket if possible.
There are usually VERY tight if they haven't been attended to regularly. I've broken 3/8 ratchets loosening them. Get a 1/2 drive socket if possible.
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack