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Just finished fixing my tranny, while it was out I replaced the clutch and flywheel with one from a WRX. My car is a '92 Legacy SS, so both were turbo 'pull' style clutches and everything bolted up and seems to work fine.
My clutch pedal is very low though. I remember reading somewhere that if you do this swap you just need to adjust the pushrod out to compensate for a different cover or something, but I can't remember if it was on the master cylinder or the slave cylinder.

Any advice?

Did you try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system?


There is a little bit of adjustment on the end of the shaft for the clutch master. I don't think it is really supposed to be a spot for adjusting, but there are enough threads for you to mess with it a little bit.

I did not bleed it, but I never disconnected anything in the hydraulic system so I doubt thats a problem. It surely can use some fresh fluid anyways, I'll flush and bleed it when I get home.

Unfortunately I'm away from home at the moment and can't investigate further on my own, but I was hoping to have a bit of knowledge when I do.

I assume theres a clutch pedal return spring on the pedal somewhere. When I depress the clutch, I don't feel the pressure plate until the pedal is halfway down, and it doesn't fully disengage until the pedal is almost on the floor. Re-engagement is similar, except sometimes the pedal only returns halfway up, and the clutch seems fully engaged. Sometimes it will 'spring' up, or sometimes a slight nudge from my toe is enough to return it to it's normal position. I assume the clutch is not pushing the pedal high enough for the return spring to do it's job, and is leaving the pedal at a breakover point for this spring I imagine is on there. I don't remember where the original clutch would disengage but I'm sure the pedal would return to the top of it's travel.

Bump. I'd like some more feedback on this if possible. I did a 5MT swap about 4 years ago and right away I put in a WRX clutch and Flywheel. My pedal has never returned all the way.
For the longest time I didn't mind it, and kinda liked it, but lately I've been driving my car a whole lot for work and it's starting to give me a knee ache.
I tried adjusting the system by pumping up and bleeding the slave cylinder , and twice I've gotten it to feel perfect, but both times, after about a day or so, the clutch pedal goes back to it's original position.
It only feels like its fully diengaged when the pedal is to the floor and it fully engages about halfway up... Anyone know what's going on? Do I need a new master or slave cylinder?

Yeah I'd suspect possibly needing a new master and/or slave cylinder.

Try bypassing the hydraulic clutch damper and re-bleeding the system before you spend any money on parts. That's what I did and it made a world of difference. I'm not sure if the damper makes the system a lot harder to bleed or if its design reduces travel, but removing it sure helped in my case.

BTW, I'm running a stock WRX clutch for what it's worth.

wheres the damper?

I pulled the slave cyl pushrod out and theres no adjustment. I'm thinking of cutting and welding in an extension.

Sometimes the pedal is high and feels good, other times it sits about 1/2 way to the floor and the clutch disengages almost at the floor. A few times while messing with it (not running) the pedal stayed on the floor.

I don't think it's an issue with the slave or master, they worked perfectly before I changed the clutch. I think it's a geometry/clearance issue with the new pressure plate/TO bearing.

I'm willing to check out the damper when I get back home later this week. Is it on the pedal side or hydraulic side?

The damper's right in between the master and the slave cylinders, bolted to the side of the transmission case. On my '92, the hose from the master cylinder was long enough to simply route it directly to the slave. All I needed was two new copper washers and a little brake fluid.

I don't remember anything in the line, the only thing I unbolted while pulling my tranny was 2 bolts holding the master on. I'll check it out when I get home.

I just finished doing my build and getting the clutch bled was the last thing i did.I had exactly the same problem!Car was fine with stock clutch and exactly as you describe word for word with the wrx clutch.I adjusted the pushrod and it is just right now.

so, did you adjust a pushrod on the master? Were you able to get at it without disconecting lines?

I adjusted the pushrod at the pedal,takes like 35 seconds to do.Loosen nut,twist twist,done,moving on.

awesome. Thanks

While doing some searches for research I came across this thread. kbeefy, did adjusting the pushrod at the pedal solve your issue?

My clutch pedal is on the floor right now. It doesn't seem to be doing anything by moving it in or out. You can pull on it and like halfway I think it pops back out all the way on it's own. But once you push on it again it snaps right back to the floor and stays there.

Will bleeding it solve this problem or do I adjust said pushrod?

I've installed a forester tranny with legacy turbo exedy clutch kit and WRX clutchmasters flywheel.

kimokalihi wrote:I've installed a forester tranny with legacy turbo exedy clutch kit and WRX clutchmasters flywheel.

Wait. Turbo Forester transmission?

I found that after you've bleed it a few times and the clutch still doesn't behave like it should, then one needs to adjust the push rod nut. I also ended up replacing the seals (documented in a thread of mine somewhere), which helped too.

n2x4 wrote:

kimokalihi wrote:I've installed a forester tranny with legacy turbo exedy clutch kit and WRX clutchmasters flywheel.

Wait. Turbo Forester transmission?

Yeah. 97 forester turbo transmission.

yes, adjusting the rod solved my problems. You have to be a little bit of a contortionist to get to it, but it was very simple to do. Make sure you use pliers or something to hold the rod when breaking the jam nut loose, the clevis on mine started to spread when I relied on the pedal to hold it to break loose. Also be sure to tighten it back up when your done.

Do you have a picture of what you're talking about? I have no idea.

I can get one...

or you can just stick your head under the dash and take a look. The pedal swing assymbly is a bit of a mess, but just follow it to where the mc pushrod goes through the firewall and you'll see what it's all about. It's got a cool little clip holding it on, other than the jam nut you don't even need any tools.

ok, heres some pics.






Lengthening the pushrod reduces pedal free-throw. A little goes a long ways.
The jamnut is against the backside of the clevis, hold the clevis with something while using a wrench to break the jamnut loose. I think the jamnut was 12 or 13mm.

Awesome, thanks! Your car looks way high is that stock suspension?

it mainly looks high because the winter tires are a bit small. It is not stock suspension at all... details here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=41533

to bring up the topic a bit...

im new to legacy stuff and i have a dead clutch (new is on the way).... heres my problem...

If i push it a bit harder on the gas, clutch pedal goes down or stays down after shifting.... i was told that this is due to bad clutch and that replacing it will fix the problem.... ok, BUT...... other day i had an emergency braking from 70mph almost to stop, i hit the brake really hard because i had to... and guess what.... after hitting the brakes hard, clutch pedal was down again? How is that possible? Arent hydraulic systems for brakes and clutch separated? What could be the problem?

Btw i tried to brake hard again later, and it happens every time

Tnx