Where do I start? Too many error codes. newbie too!

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:55 am

Well my head is spinning from many days of searching TPS,ECU,TCU, and error code threads here. I really could use some direction here cause my two local mechanics cant pinpoint my problem.

I am getting all of these error codes (21,22,23,31,32,33,35,45) and cant even pull any TCU codes. Power light will not flash for me(only at start up).

Basically, the tranny was just rebuilt and everthing worked fine. Then I started to get some kind of fuel cut or boost cut under heavy load, a week or so later the idle went bad(drops to 2-300 in gear at stop and jumps to 2500 in park). At about the same time I lost 4th gear and the trannsmission seems to freewheel when throttle is lifted. In manual mode it shifts fine 1st thru 3rd but wont go to 4th when I put in Drive.

My tranny guy opened it up and said everything is fine. He replace d the speedometer cable cause that stopped working and replaced the speedometer sensor too. That code should go away when I reset ecu?

Has anyone experienced similar problems. Where do I begin? My local mechanics cant pinpoint the problem.

BSOD2600 · Post by **BSOD2600** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:09 am

With that many codes in memory, clear them out and then see what comes back.

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:24 am

How long do you leave the battery off? Sorry the last paragraph in the link isnt to clear on exactly how to clear the ecu. Or I'm just confused.

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:25 am

I guess it doesnt say when to connect the green and black connectors at the appropriate time. Appropriate time?

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:20 am

K sort of figured it out thanks to Josh's site http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html. I tried to clear the ecu of past codes but instead of flashing the all clear flashes(steady 1/2 sec flashes) i got a sequence instead. Doesnt sound good for the ecu? I got error codes 31,35,and 42. Much better than the original 8 i pulled before clearing.

Tried d-mode and got the same results. I will try to completely reset the ecu in the am via "battery dance".

Does anyone here think I have a faulty ECU? If not should I replace the TPS 1st or the canister purge solenoid or the idle switch?

I really need some help here after throwing down on a rental for two weeks and know one could diagnose.

Skruyd · Post by **Skruyd** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:53 am

You shouldn't really replace the parts untill you went through the diagnostic part of it. Like for some reason the tps plug could be off and that is why the two codes are thrown for it..... Not saying it is unplugged but if it is I didn't do it

. The canister purge solenoid you might want to go ahead and replace if it is the original. Those usually go out anyways........I guess I'ma hypocrite. Any who how to test the TPS is on Josh's site too.

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:17 pm

Here are the excerpts from the factory manual. Essentially same thing that is on my site.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting3.jpg

The TPS may be a little off on its resistances, but that's somewhat normal. The only calibration/adjustment on the TPS is for the idle switch.

Also, I'd recommend replacing the canister purge solenoid. Sometimes this can cause weird issues and not allow the ECU to be cleared.

Additionally....if your speedo was not working, it will play havoc with the auto trans, not let it shift into 4th, cause the fans to be on, and a slew of other oddities. So fixing the speedo may resolve some of your problems.

Test the TPS, replace the canister purge, and see how things are after that.

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Wed Jun 03, 2009 5:46 pm

Ok... Getting some help with testing the TPS later today. I have ordered the purge solenoid. I did the battery dance again last night to clear ECU/TCU and I dont think it worked. I ended up pulling all the same codes I originally had: 21,22,23,31,32,33,35,45. I tried to pull TCU codes too and no luck. The power light will not blink for me. WTF? Any ideas for me until my purge solenoid shows up.

log1call · Post by **log1call** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 2:34 am

Hi, I'm a self-employed mechanic and whenever I have a car a few years old with changing symptoms, intermittent symptoms or codes or, faults with no codes... I always pull the ecu, take it's top off and use a magnifying glass to look for leaking capacitors, water damage, burnt resistors, cracked circuit boards, blown/exploded transistors. I do that early on before I go chasing after elusive faults that can be caused by the above. Once I know the ecu is good then you can concentrate on diagnosing, checking and curing the problems one by one. It is generally intended that you fix lower number codes first... but that is not a hard and fast rule because some codes, eg O2, IAC etc can be caused by some other sensor causing the actual fault that the code is pointing to. Codes are an aid to diagnosis only, not hard fact. They need interperating!

BSOD2600 · Post by **BSOD2600** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 2:47 am

log1call wrote:I always pull the ecu, take it's top off and use a magnifying glass to look for leaking capacitors, water damage, burnt resistors, cracked circuit boards, blown/exploded transistors.

This has solved problems many times?

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:35 am

Thank you for the suggestion. With the way the ecu and the tcu are acting I am whiping out the magnifier for sure. Stealer said $650 for ecu and 450 for wire harness.

I have to mention years ago I had a Venom piggy back computer that promised 25 + hp that was hooked up to the MAF and TPS via T clips. I t never worked properly and always stalled the car. Anyway it has been long disconnected but the wire harness to the tps was damaged(snaged) and then repaired by my mechanic with wire connectors. It looks like a good job but another mechanic told me that could be my tps problem because those wire carry milli volts and the slightest interruption could tweak the tps. Do you guys think I should try to sodder wires instead of keeping the connectors?

I guess I just need to check the wire harness for resistance? My volt meter skills just suck.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:08 pm

The TPS & MAF carry more than millivolts. However it is important that the wiring is good. I'd verify you have good continuity between the sensor connectors and the ECU connectors.

As for replacing the ECU & TCU, you can more than likely find them used for a HUGE savings.

log1call · Post by **log1call** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:44 am

BSOD, not many times comparatively but it has been the cure enough times to warrant having a look before spending time or money chasing faults that keep changing. I've cured toyotas, hondas, subarus to name some jobs I remember.

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:41 pm

K... got the Canister purge solenoid #14774aa351 but the one I have on is #14774aa340 and is totally different. The plug is different too. Its also mounted on passenger side strut tower. I saw some pics on here where it was mounted on the intake manifold? I think I have the right part? Just not sure which hose goes in or out?

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:26 am

14774AA351 is the one you want.

Here's some pictures of how it's supposed to go:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_5102.JPG

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_2471.JPG

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:57 pm

I started all over with trying to clear the ecu via black and green connectors. Drove over 12 mph for a minute and no luck clearing codes but it did flash 32 (canister purge) and 42(idle air)which was never in the original codes pulled.

My question is... even though I didnt succesfullly clear the original codes(21,22,23,31,32,33,35,45) are 32 and 42 from d-mode the only actual errors I should be looking at? And... what is the easiest way to get the purge solenoid out without taking the intake manifold off? Thanks for all the help so far

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:10 pm

Yes I would focus on the canister purge & idle air. I would specifically focus on the canister purge.

There is no "easy" way to get it out. You may be able to get at it more easilyby removing the 90 deg elbow on the turbo (assuming it's a vf11)

Rocco · Post by **Rocco** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:53 pm

Ok... now I'm getting somewhere. Replaced and relocated Canister purge solenoid. Replaced Coolant temp sensor and Knock sensor. Replaced resonator box because of broken vacuum inlet from some sensor on strut tower. Tried to clear codes again and no luck. Now the freakin seatbelt lite is flashing. WTF? Seatbelts are fine.

Anyway drove to work(about 10 miles) and the check engine lite started to go off intermitantly. Sweet! It seems to go off when throttle is pressed. I also have alot more power back.

I do still have all the original problems. Low idle. Cant clear codes. Cant pull TCU codes. Check engine comes on at idle now and goes off under load. Tranmission only shifts in manual when set in 3rd gear and if in auto mode it will only shift at 6200rpms.

Whats the best way to clean the IACV? I think thats the culprit now. Any other suggestions would be great. Thanx

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:45 am

Have you tested the resistance of the IAC valve? How does it compare to the values listed in the FSM?

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... C_Diag.zip

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Where do I start? Too many error codes. newbie too!

Where do I start? Too many error codes. newbie too!