looking for rebuilding short block tips

92ss satinsvoice · Post by **92ss satinsvoice** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:10 am

ok, im going to reassemble my short block again. this time by my self. the rods are already on the crank ( i had a friend install these in the first rebuild) and i have the mains ready to go on the block halfs plus new rings too.

so my questions are:

how much silicon do i use to seal the block?

do the notches in the bearings face each (same side) other or are the apposed.

if theres any other things i must know while installing the crank and bolting up the short block please let me know. i will look for the torque sequence spec's for the block.

Thank you all very much!

gijonas · Post by **gijonas** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:07 pm

You want to use enough sealant to fill all voids but not so much that it all squeezes into the crankcase when you tighten it,just use common sense on that one.As far as the bearings go you should only be able to put them in one way due to the little bent tabs on the bearings which lock into the block,so yes the grooves will match up.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:41 pm

I'll second the silicone comment. You do not want to get carried away.

Do you have a rebuild kit with the washers/seals, etc? Is it OEM?

92ss satinsvoice · Post by **92ss satinsvoice** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:34 pm

yes i bought all the o-rings and seals from the dealership. i never use any aftermarket seals. ive learn the hard way why and we all know what i mean. Thank you guys very much this should be easy to do then.

LIVE ON THE BBS!!!

log1call · Post by **log1call** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:49 pm

It's better to use an anarobic sealer like loctite these days.

The anarobic sealers don't harden unless they are clamped between metal surfaces and so the squeezed out stuff disolves into the oil and comes out with the first oil change.

Silicon is diabolocal for getting into oilways and causing serious damage.

I'm a mechanic and I'd never use silicon for anything but sumps that are designed to use it.

I'm not sure why you are doing a second rebuild but I'd strip those rods and start again with everything clean as new. Even if there hasn't been a problem you need to clean and lube those shells.

Cleanlinsss is next to godliness when it comes to motors.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:36 pm

Yeah, I'd probably have to agree on the anerobic sealant. The FSM recommends using one....I forget the actual threebond name. I picked some up for my rebuild.

log1call · Post by **log1call** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:06 pm

AnErobic, anErobic... must learn to spell!

brand · Post by **brand** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:09 pm

It's actually anaerobic, so don't be too hard on yourself

log1call · Post by **log1call** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:18 pm

Hell, I can't even pronounce that one.... I give up!

92ss satinsvoice · Post by **92ss satinsvoice** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:42 am

anyone have the torque sequince for the short block? i have all the bearings in and the crank ready to go.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:44 am

It'll be in the FSM's I posted here

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=14485

92ss satinsvoice · Post by **92ss satinsvoice** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:28 am

the links i need aren't working for me.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 5:55 pm

Which ones do you need? The 92 FSM? For whatever reason the phpbb software doesn't like & in the links.

Go to the main link, and navigate to the 92 FSM

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ual_scans/

92ss satinsvoice · Post by **92ss satinsvoice** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:25 pm

thank you josh very much for your help. got the info i needed.

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looking for rebuilding short block tips

looking for rebuilding short block tips