turbo 5sp problem

[EJ KILLA]

ok so im in the middle of putting together my 5sp and after i tourqe down the case bolts i turn the lower shaft by hand that rotates front diff and its stuck solid then i brake it loose and its not smooth at all, its hard to turn and i can feel it grab on every tooth. is it suppose to be like this? i loosend the four 14mm bolts in the middle of the case and it immediatly was smoooth to rotate and yes i have the trq right.

any ideas?

[fishbone79]

First thing to check is if the notches/holes in the bearings are lining up with the pins in the bearing carriers on the case. If not, you'll have issues, but I doubt it would bind or that you'd even be able to reassemble.

Second (if the first is OK), did you change the carrier bearings on the side of the front diff? If the carrier bearings adjusters are tightened in too far when you torque the sides of the case together, the pinion will push down on the ring gear and the carrier bearings will be overloaded on the diff housing. This will make the whole diff bind and you won't be able to move the pinion shaft. If you do this to a great degree, the rollers will end up putting little dents in your carrier bearing races (i.e., brinelling) and they'll need to be replaced (if you suspect this has happened, check closely). Also, the thickness of the gasket effects the differential lash.

There is a specific assembly procedure... However if you haven't changed much on the transmission and have no reason to think the lash adjustment would be drastically off, I'd suggest putting the correct # of shims on the rear of the pinion shaft and assembling as normal. Next, back the carrier bearing adjusters out a turn or two, goop up your mating surface, assemble the case and torque it down. Then follow the FSM procedure very closely for setting the diff lash (I used never-seize instead of red lead to check the pattern).

I can go check my notes and see where I added corrections to the FSM when you get to that part... setting the lash on this is a bit tricky because you have to go through the sump hole (makes it tough to get a vector-normal measurement on the ring-gear). The most important part is 'feeling' out your starting point by adjusting the carrier bearing pre-load.

[EJ KILLA]

thanks for the reply! the lockpin for the lower shaft got pushed down into the case and i dont see how id get that out. but ithe bearing does sit flat and i lay it in the right position but im going take a look at the diff bearings

[EJ KILLA]

so what that feeling is the front roller bearing, is it suppost to be clamped when the cases go together? is the inner shaft that spins the front diff suppost to feel like the bearing is spinning really tight?

[fishbone79]

They should be relatively loose when you put the case together. You don't want them pushing the ring gear toward or away from the pinion - but you want them to support the front diff on the bottom half in some semblance of it's correct location while you assemble. If the pinion shaft is tight when you assemble, back those carrier bearing cups out a bit (there is a special tool, but I modified a filter socket with a grinding wheel). You'll be adjusting those bearings heavily after assembly anyway, so there is no need for them to initially be more than in the general vicinity, on the loose side. If they are too tight when you torque down the case halves, you'll ruin the bearings.

After the case is assembled, there is a procedure for adjusting those... That's the fun part.

[EJ KILLA]

no i dont even have the front diff in, its the roller bearing for the shaft that drives the front diff, not the one with shims. im seriously stuck on trying to get this together.... if anyone could help that would be great and id return the favor

[fishbone79]

IIRC, there is a slight preload on the rear bearing, but you need to measure it with a scale to make sure it's in spec. The bearing on the front of that shaft right behind the pinion gear (the one I think you're talking about) should spin freely as normal. If it doesn't, you're bearing is shot, the case is not assembling correctly, or you have crapola in there. If the thickness of the gasket is not accounted for when you reassemble, that bearing can bind (although it takes allot of effort to get to that point). The manuals are in the "Stuff You Need to Know" section. You really need to look at those before you reassemble.

Also triple check to make sure you've aligned the knock pin with the hole on the bearing. If you're still having issues, post some pics.

[EJ KILLA]

so there is a gasket for the transmission case? i thought you just use like ultra black to seal it? if thats the case then i know thats why its putting to much pressure on that bearing. the bearing was brand new but i swapped it for a used one too and still the same problem. also the lockpin is pushed all the way into its bore so its flush with the surface....

[Legacy777]

This is why I wouldn't want to tear into a MT case.....WAAAAYYY too much tweaking to do.....and without the right tools, it's very challenging.

[fishbone79]

It's challenging, but not too bad if you take your time and read the manual.

I want to be crystal clear we're talking about the same bearing here... The one right behind the pinion gear on the pinion shaft?? That should spin normally...



The one directly behind the pinion gear on the pinion shaft requires pressing all the gears off that shaft to swap out (unless you happen to have one of the extremely rare shafts where the pinion gear may be pushed off). Something could go very wrong with that reassembly if you didn't follow the manual with regard to tolerances.

If that's the bearing, then something is not right in your assembly. First thing, I would do is put the knock pin in it's proper place and align the bearing so that the race sits in the correct position over the knock pin. This is important because the pin will influence the bearing unless it is either removed or in the correct position (flush with the surface is no good - it's likely not really flush). Then I would lay the rest of the gears in place, and goop up the case halves with ultra black. Even though no gasket proper is used, if you lay your gasket correctly it will occupy the same amount of physical space that a paper gasket would.

Did you say you are reassembling without the front diff? I'm not sure why you'd do that, but you can always reassembly for a dry run putting your gasket maker in there and just scrape it off again later...

Last thoughts, are you sure you're not confusing the pre-load on the rear bearing (the one with the shims) for binding of this bearing in the front?? The rear bearing is supposed to have some pre-load, or it is no good. When you assemble the case, that bearing will cause the shaft to seems stiff (not bound, but just a little resistant to being turned).

[EJ KILLA]

yes we are talking about the bearing behind the pinion. the bearing was placed on the shaft and i pressed the lock washer all the way down. i used a different bearing by just replacing the whole shaft with a used one to see if that changed anything. i think ill have to drill and remove the pin because its completely stuck in the bore.

[EJ KILLA]

So I fixed the bearing problem. The pin was the problem. But now I'm having problems with the extension housing not fully going down on the transfer case, the only way it fully goes down is if I remove the needle bearing and thrust washer ontop of the center diff