legacycentral bbs

So i picked up a 92 ss on the weekend, release bearing was ripped in half.

So the tranny is out (replacing the 1-2 shift fork to grr ) so i had to take the down pipe out, and i took out the turbo to cuz its pretty much out.

So im thinking of picking up a TD06 20G locally, im totally new to this but could someone critique my check list for supporting mods?

I plan on only running just before the fuel cut 13psi? Just to try it out for a bit. The engine has 355 thousand kms but seems to run very smooth no ticking or slapping at all or smoking. If it stands up for a bit i might bring it up a little more to peak effeciency pressure. But thats later down the road when the car actually moves haha.

What is my goal? mid/low 13's and around 250rwhp with a good tune. I don't its likely unless it's run at its peak effeciency pressure eh?

2" catless up pipe
3" catless bellmouth downpipe
440cc injectors-do i need bigger ones like 550 if i wanna max out the flow of the 20G?
Wideband afr
piggy back ecu is this any good for our cars? http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bnc/p ... 63983.html
Custom FMIC
Pyrometer
boost gauge
do i need a walbro 255 pump or a different pressure regulator?
Knock moniter
Water temp gauge
Oil cooler
ACT HD plate with 4 puck sprung clutch

I've read non stop for the past few days searching on this forum and the nasioc searching up on this.

So anyone care to give me suggestions?

I would use the stock up pipe. Keep the size the same. There's no cat in the up pipe anyhow. You should use larger injectors for that turbo if you want to get the most out of it. You'll definitely want to get a walbro 255. Don't forget the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge for the wideband.

I just got my car running and for the moment I'm running the stock MAF and ECU with 565cc STI injectors, TD05-16g, 06-07 TMIC, 3" TBE and I hit 13lbs of boost at only 5K RPM and let me tell you, hitting fuel cut sucks. You'll want to run more than 13lbs I guarantee it.

kimokalihi wrote:I would use the stock up pipe. Keep the size the same. There's no cat in the up pipe anyhow. You should use larger injectors for that turbo if you want to get the most out of it. You'll definitely want to get a walbro 255. Don't forget the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge for the wideband.

I just got my car running and for the moment I'm running the stock MAF and ECU with 565cc STI injectors, TD05-16g, 06-07 TMIC, 3" TBE and I hit 13lbs of boost at only 5K RPM and let me tell you, hitting fuel cut sucks. You'll want to run more than 13lbs I guarantee it.

ok ill stick to the stock up pipe i thought it was cat'd.

So your ecu is operating fine on idle on 565cc's? i heard that anothing over 440 the ecu will be wonky.

well i plan on just using stock boost whatever the 20g is set at for the actuator spring. Just to see how the car responds.

can i run stock boost alone with a3" downpipe and fmic on stock injectors and fuel pump? or will that be running at to high of a duty cycle for the injectors and incificent flow for the pump?

If a stock turbo can flow 360cfm over 380cc injectors, and going to 640cfm on a TD06 20G can be technically expressed as a the following?

360cfm-----------640cfm
______-----=----_______
380cc ---------------X cc

X=675.5cc?

so to be proportionate would i need 720cc injectors? would 550cc's cut it at peak effeciency boost? I dont really want to get a new fuel rail. But if i must i will then.

You can get side feeds up to like 800 or more I think. But yeah you'll need different fuel rails or an adapter kit I think.

Get some 92-94 n/a rails from your local junk yard for cheap. These will fit any STi side feeds you desire. I would personally go for the 850cc injectors to give you some overhead so you are running a lower duty cycle. This will also give you the option to run E85, which requires 30% more fuel then 91 octane.

You also want to consider some other supporting mods when leaping into big engine power mods like that.

Is the suspension stock and possibly original equipment? Having big power with a spongy suspension is a bad combo. Some better struts and stiffer springs will help the stability.

Probably some of the 20 year old bushings are toast in the various suspension components...front control arms, rear lateral and trailing links, swaybar bushings and links.

Also look into braking. Either a 4 pot upgrade or at least some better pads and fluid change.

I have spent about equal amout of money on engine performance as I did on suspension and braking components. It is important to balance the two.

+1 on bigger injectors/Walbro. Also, if you stick w/the stock turbo location that 20G will be a tight fit.

Re: EM. The SMT6 in the link is the older version. There's an SMT8 out now, I believe.


Have fun,
Td

macipusy wrote:You also want to consider some other supporting mods when leaping into big engine power mods like that.

Is the suspension stock and possibly original equipment? Having big power with a spongy suspension is a bad combo. Some better struts and stiffer springs will help the stability.

Probably some of the 20 year old bushings are toast in the various suspension components...front control arms, rear lateral and trailing links, swaybar bushings and links.

Also look into braking. Either a 4 pot upgrade or at least some better pads and fluid change.

I have spent about equal amout of money on engine performance as I did on suspension and braking components. It is important to balance the two.

ya i plan on doing that i have new gr2 struts and eibach springs from my 98 n/a that i plan on swapping to begin with. As for other suspension parts im inspect it later when its all up and running

as for brakes there is a bbk 500 on craiglist off a usdm wrx i plan on buying. They will fit right?

I think your goals are little mis-matched. That turbo will want to run a lot of air through that engine, and due to the head restriction, slower spool, you will build 13 psi very quickly but a higher rpm. In my opinion that setup would net you a very laggy, yet not too powerful car.

If you really want to go with a TD05-20G, you need to be spending a lot more time on other supporting components like the heads, or cams. As mentioned you'll need fuel pump, and you will likely need injectors in the 600-700 cc/min range.

If you truly want to stay that low in boost, you need a smaller turbo that will spool quickly. Don't expect a lot of power out of it. I'd suggest getting a boost/fuel cut defender so you can up your boost. The other item is engine management. You will need a piggy back at the very least to put all these components together and push them much beyond the stock setup.

ya i read that the stock heads were terribly restrictive, whats the simplest option? get them ported out? also do the cams choke it down as much as the heads?

even with stock heads and cams do you think its possible to make at least 250awhp at peak efficency boost? like on 94 pump gas, P.E. 880cc side feeds, TBE and standalone ecu?

Really, you need to get a smaller turbo.

250 AWHP is doable with a TD05-16G with the proper setup. That's pretty much what I have.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _dyno2.jpg


That is on a mainly stock block/heads with a 3" turbo back exhaust, AWIC, 550 injectors, msd ignition, link stand alone ecu, port & polished TD05-16G at about 18 psi. Those are main mods I have.

Legacy777 wrote:Really, you need to get a smaller turbo.

250 AWHP is doable with a TD05-16G with the proper setup. That's pretty much what I have.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _dyno2.jpg


That is on a mainly stock block/heads with a 3" turbo back exhaust, AWIC, 550 injectors, msd ignition, link stand alone ecu, port & polished TD05-16G at about 18 psi. Those are main mods I have.

Ok, but there are no other turbos in my town sold locally right now. I think ill just buy it and keep it since its been overhauled (thrust bearings, seals and journal bearings) and is in like new condition. $500 bucks for a $1200 turbo i cant pass it up. And its a TEC turbo too. Just so it can be exploited more when i change out the heads.

also do 02-07 wrx/sti fuel pump kits work for our cars? If so i want to buy this. I want to go with a walbro 255lph pump, what fuel pressure should the regulator set at for running 880cc's? ps im going with power enterprise side feeds.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBRO-2 ... ccessories

Also this 6puck Comp clutch also so save on shipping. It says its for a 02-05 wrx, but on other clutches it says it works for both applications on the ss and wrx. Is that true? Also its going to be paired with a steel Exedy 12lbs flywheel $183cnd new.

THANKS!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAGE-4- ... ccessories

This is where I bought my walbro 255 at. It's cheaper and free shipping IIRC.

http://www.walbro255.com/255-lph-high-p ... 59801.html

kimokalihi wrote:This is where I bought my walbro 255 at. It's cheaper and free shipping IIRC.

http://www.walbro255.com/255-lph-high-p ... 59801.html

sweet thanks! and thats going to be a direct fit for our cars with the 98-01 application?

Almost positive. Like 99%. Someone else will know. I bought mine a couple months ago but I already forgot haha.

Just couldn't resist haha

JZZ30 wrote:

kimokalihi wrote:This is where I bought my walbro 255 at. It's cheaper and free shipping IIRC.

http://www.walbro255.com/255-lph-high-p ... 59801.html

sweet thanks! and thats going to be a direct fit for our cars with the 98-01 application?

Yeah, it's a direct fit.

can i use sr20det 850cc sard side feed injectors with 92-94 n/a rails?

also i want to use it with a microtech lt10s, does any one know where i can get a base map for it? would a eg20t basemap be close enough to start with?

Oh boy.


First thing's first. A larger turbo at a given pressure ratio (boost) does not necessarily mean more power. If a smaller turbo is still efficient at the same pressure ratio, it will not flow any more air. Possibly less. Looking at a turbo's choke flow (maximum flow rate) is misguided, since small engines can only consume a given amount of air unless you change the pressure entering said engine. Granted, turbine wheel and housing changes can have effects, but it does not change how the compressor works.

For example, look at small displacement drag cars. They have to run very high RPM's and extremely high pressure ratios to make the power that they do. A 45R will not make much more power than a 35R at 20 psi, since they are reasonably close in efficiency at that pressure ratio. The 45R can support much more airflow and pressure, which is why the serious engines can make that much more power at the necessary RPM and pressure ratio.

The moral of the story is, don't buy a turbo that supports a lot more airflow than you need, otherwise you are chopping yourself off at the knees.





That said, control is everything. Without complete control over fuel and ignition, you are asking for disaster. That Microtech does not allow you to run everything a stock Subaru ECU does. For that much money, you would be much better off buying a Link G4 Storm.

The Link would have a basemap that you would have to scale for larger injectors (like any aftermarket EMS) but it would get the car to start. If you can't handle adjusting the fuel and timing (with a wideband, naturally) you need to leave that part to a professional. Driving around town at 11.0:1 is unacceptable.



These two basic things I discussed leave out A TON of other modifications necessary to run what you aspire to successfully. Clutch, transmission, fuel system (other than injectors), datalogging, intercooling, brakes, suspension, engine internals, heads, camshafts and a host of other things need to be looked at.

If you think you are going to make 250-300whp reliably that easily you are grossly mistaken.