I want regular ol' brakes (ABS delete?)

[IronMonkeyL255]

How would i go about plumbing the brake system if i were to remove the ABS completely from the system?

What parts would be required?

Anyone done this before?

[skid542]

It can be done a couple of ways.

All the ABS pump does is split the two lines off the master cylinder into the four lines that go the proportiong valve and the front brakes. So ultimately all you need to do is place a couple t-fittings to just split the two lines from the master into the four going to the proportioning valve and front brakes. Being sure to keep the diagonal safety system. Front right and rear left on one line and the other two corners on the second line.

The more proper way is just make new lines. This requires some patience and skill in bending and flaring. A good flaring tool is a must (cheap ones suck, trust me...) as you need the flare and bearing surface to be right. A good flaring tool isn't that cheap if you don't already have one. But the advantage is if you go this route you can use SAE hydraulic fittings. It will also look a bit neater and more professional.

The other way, is to just use a metric t-fitting and bend the stock lines down into the area the pump was. This is what I did. It takes some careful bending and making sure to put anti-chafe tape (electrical tape works great) on anything that might touch or rub. This doesn't look as nice but if you're running a stock airbox it's not that noticable. The trick is finding metric t-fittings. This is actually pretty difficult and I ended up having to go to a hydrualic fittings store and ordering them. I also found them online on a site that was focused on volkswagon sand buggys. I'll see if I can dig it up. I should note though that I did buy new lines to run from the t-fitting to the proportioning valve. Napa has plenty of these to choose from with fittings and flares ready to go.

If you get the ones with a hole in the middle of the t-fitting it makes mounting a lot easier. You need to make sure the mass of the t fitting is appropriately supported. The only metric ones I could find where fairly large and weighty. The SAE ones are significantly smaller and well mounted lines would easily support their mass.

Below is a picture of my ABS delete in the lower right corner. It's the only picture I have of it and unfortunatetly is not the best but you can see it if you zoom in a little. There was a thread that had a clearner install with a few pictures if you do a little searching, or at least there was.

Anyrate, it's not difficult, frees up a space, drops a little weight way up front, and gives you full control. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Picture - http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s151 ... ure025.jpg

[PhyrraM]

If I was going to try this my first impulse would be to get all the brake lines, master cylinder and proportioning valve from a non-ABS car.

The above procedure is likely faster, easier and cheaper.

[gijonas]

If I was going to try this my first impulse would be to get all the brake lines, master cylinder and proportioning valve from a non-ABS car.

The above procedure is likely faster, easier and cheaper.

X2. Skid's idea is fine and has been done a bunch of times.

[IronMonkeyL255]

I was thinking of running new lines, but skid's setup looks really damn clean. Which ABS pump did you have originally. I have the Bosch setup, which is huge and i think the lines will be a bit more difficult to work with neatly.....

[IronMonkeyL255]

And am i looking at it correctly in that that is 2 T's, with one going to LF and RR, while the other is split to RF and LR? Does it matter which line splits to which, or do both lines off the master see the same pressures?

[skid542]

I'm afraid I can't remember which ABS pump I had and just threw it away a couple weeks ago. It was the stock ABS pump for my 93' SS. There was a lot of line to bend but it can be done. You have six lines that run along the frame rail under the airbox and then they bend up, running along the ABS pump, and then bend forward and then down. If you 'rotate' the lines from the first bend up either clockwise or counter and it actually fits okay. You need to tighten and redo a couple of the radii slightly but it allows that line to lay flat along the rail and come in nicely into the T-fitting. I did however replace the two lines that go to the proptioning valve.

And yes, it is two fitting, splitting off as you said. Both lines from the master cylinder are the same pressure which helps.

So, if you rotate, one of the stock master lines clockwise and then one of the front brake counter-clockwise it lets you mate easily to the T-fitting with the line for the proptioning valve going straight back. This is a slight oversimplification, but you get the idea. Make sure you offset the two fittings so that you can get a wrench down to ALL the male fitting to tighten it.

Then just run a bolt through the hole on the two t-fittings and tie it into the sheetmetal to secure it tight.

All in all it'll take three-four hours to drain fluid, bend/fit/etc., and bleed the brakes again. And of course make sure you pressure test it in the driveway with the motor running to check for leaks to avoid any suprises .

[IronMonkeyL255]

awesome.

Any chance you remember the thread pitch or where you got the fittings....?

[IronMonkeyL255]

I think i found the ones I need. M10x1 sound familiar?

And does it matter which T runs to which port on the prop valve? Or is it like the MC, and they both see effectively the same pressures?

And in case anyone is wondering, my ABS was messing up and activating at times that it shouldn't, so removing the ABS is actually safer than leaving it at this point. I have already removed the ABS fuse, but i think something in the pump is still funky.

Edit: http://www.brakequip.com/fitting4.html BQ91A look about right?

[skid542]

That T-fitting you found, P/N BQ91A, is exactly what I got I believe. I know it's M10 and I'm pretty sure the thread pitch is 1 and not 1.5 or 1.25. The seat type is important of course, duh , and the BQ91A has it right.

And it does not matter which line goes to which side of the t-fitting. There is so little fluid volume movement and at such high pressures it doesn't matter - everything will see the same pressure.

I think you're good to go now .