Rear Diff Bushings To Get Rid of Clunking

[kimokalihi]

I have STI Group N motor mounts, pitch mount and tranny mount and I want to get transmission crossmember bushings and rear diff bushings. Turn-In-Concepts says their stuff for the 02+ WRX won't fit 1st gen legacys because they use a different size bushing.

What can I replace to make my rear diff solid so it doesn't clunk when I shift or take off? Where do those subframe locking bolts go and will they fit our cars?

[Deride]

The tranny crossmember bushings should be the same. I have a brand new set of the rear crossmember anti-clunk kartboy bushings sitting on my desk, if I can get at my 94 ones to measure I will compare them for you. The kartboy kit comes with 2 different sizes where the turn in comcepts might not.

[kimokalihi]

Well I think the turn in ones are completely different bushings than the kartboy kit. For different things. At least that's what I was reading on NASIOC and they look completely different from the pictures as well.

[kimokalihi]

I think the kartboy ones are for the diff mount bracket and the turn in ones are actually for the crossmember mounting bushings to the chassis.

[Legacy777]

There's a couple different mounts involved.

The transmission crossmember bushings should be the same as Deride pointed out. The bushings that are likely causing the thunk are the front bushings for the rear subframe. Whiteline makes a kit, KSB750. They were about $25 when I bought them a couple years ago.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/ima ... shing1.jpg

Whiteline makes the subframe lock bolts. I can't seem to find a good picture of them not installed on my car. You can kind of seem them in this picture. You want to loosen the other bolts holding the subframe to the chassis when you put the lock bolts in.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/ima ... P_3194.JPG

On top of those bushings, there is a bushing for the rear differential. On the newer Subarus there has been a variety of bushing setup. Our cars have a plate that mounts to the diff with bushings, and that mounts to the rear subframe. Some of the newer setups have bushings in the rear subframe, while others went to a different style plate setup.

I'd suggest doing the front bushings for the rear subframe that I posted. These are probably going to have the biggest impact in reducing the thunk.