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Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:28 am
by mike-tracy
I believe I read a while ago several people removed the hardlines for the clutch, and ran the rubber hose straight from the master to slave cylinder, right?

I was attempting to do that tonight and discovered that my hydraulic setup (from an 02-05 US wrx) has the wrong gender on the rubber hose. Needs to be male.  I also found in my pile of parts that my n/a hydro clutch master and slaves are the same setup as the wrx, as far as gender of the rubber hose.

I'm looking to get better pedal feel with this exercise. So what do I need to do to get this to work?

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:45 am
by kimokalihi
All I know is I removed the damper and ran whatever hose reached to the slave. I had to unbolt and bend the hard line a bit but it works amazing.

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:04 am
by mike-tracy
This is really awkward to do from my phone. But here goes:

This is what I have right now between the master and slave cyls:
Image

so would you say I don't have that piece you took off?

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:11 am
by vrg3
You need a different rubber hose. You don't, however, need one with a "male" end. Here's the background on how each type of line attaches to the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or damper:

The hard lines attach with flare fittings. The line has an M10x1.0 flare nut (external threads) on it and it threads into whatever it's attached to (which has internal threads), compressing the flared tube against a matching inverted flare in the cylinder or damper.

The rubber lines have banjo fittings at the end. They require a banjo bolt and two annealed copper washers to attach to whatever they're attaching to. They're 10mm banjos, so you can use an M10x1.0 banjo bolt.

The fittings on the master and slave cylinder should be able to work with either type of line, as long as the banjo bolt isn't too long (or else the flare in the cylinder or damper would interfere with the bolt).

If you're not familiar with banjo fittings, the picture at the top of this page and the picture at "Step 7" on this page should make it clearer.

This isn't a great picture, but the kind of hose you need is like this one. And, of course, you'll need a banjo bolt and two copper washers.

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:14 am
by mike-tracy
thanks for the clarification. The pictured setup was in my car, mounted like so.

i'll pm you re: that hose

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:58 am
by kimokalihi
Looks he same as I remember mine being. That rubber hose bolts to the master and the hard line with the flare end bolts to the slave. Bend the hard line up so the hose reaches.

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 6:28 pm
by bmxkelowna
check my thread

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=48261

i have all the part numbers to make a braided line

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:04 pm
by mike-tracy
bmx, thanks for the info, that's awesome! I just bought a hose from vrg3 or i'd order those

Re: Removing the junction from the master to slave cylinder

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:13 pm
by vrg3
I haven't shipped the hose yet -- you can change your mind if you like. Let me know and I'll refund the PayPal payment.