4eat wonders

[slipknot51]

So since I've owned my car I've been having this weird issue with reverse and then also in the 2nd to 3rd shift. first off some times when I shift into reverse it seems to be delayed like it takes a few seconds to engage reverse sometimes it takes up to 30 seconds to finally engage and then pounds it into reverse. I've noticed sometimes even when I put it into reverse it doesn't seem like you have all the power there and you have to give it more gas then it slams into reverse. I do have the power light flash at me 16 times at start up. I've tried the code reading procedures to read codes but the power light never flashes. I will say this, I did bypass the neutral safety switch because it failed and I needed the car to start and I haven't undone my bypass. I noticed that now since I've done that when I put the range selector into 3 it doesn't light up on the dash same with 1 some times. Im guessing this is why i can't read codes. The second issue with 2nd to 3rd shift is that some times when I'm driving and its a lighter throttle and some times medium throttle it seems like when it shifts to 3rd it feels like i loose power for a few seconds sometimes even up to 10 seconds and then the car comes to life and I've got the power back. I've tried to see if I could cause it to slip by pushing down on the throttle a little bit but the speed that I'm usually at when it ends up shifting to 3rd causes it down shifting to bring the rpm back up to get me going again. I've checked the fluid a few times Im going to be changing it soon but the fluid is always at the proper level and doesn't have the smell of burn't fluid. I usually compare it to new fluid and its looks a little lighter in color but not brown or black in color still has the red look to it.

[Legacy777]

I think you've identified your issue.....your bypass of the neutral safety switch. On the autos, the neutral safety switch is part of the inhibitor switch inside the transmission and lets the TCU know what gear selection the transmission is in. If you have this bypassed, the TCU is probably rather confused and probably working more in a "mechanical" fashion than electronic.

I would recommend fixing/replacing the neutral switch and putting things back to stock to see if that fixes your problem.

[slipknot51]

Thats crazy by just simply bypassing the switch it would cause me to not read codes and to shift differently. Another note when I got the car I saw that the TCU that was in it had what I would consider junk yard marker marking on the side of it. Idk if the previous owner was having issues but it seemed to drive fine with both the original and junk yard TCU's in there. I didnt seem to notice any difference between them. If I remember right I have always seen the Power light flash the 16 times at start up. I've always though it was a self test that the TCU went through. But nothing seems to be weird besides what i mentioned above with the Reverse and 2nd-3rd shifts.

[Legacy777]

The 16 flashes on startup is indication of a problem or active code in the TCU. So the TCU is definitely seeing something it doesn't like, and until you can check it, it's just a guessing game.

[slipknot51]

Well I got a new inhibitor switch today. I'll take and install it this weekend and see what changes. I did notice that when I did bypassed the inhibitor switch the cruse control stopped working as well I'm guessing the cruse is tied into the TCM some how and would cause this issue. I will keep you posted on if anything changes

[Legacy777]

Yup, the cruise is tied into the TCM.

Let us know how it goes with changing out the inhibitor switch.

[slipknot51]

Well I changed out my transmission filter and fluid plus diff fluid both front and rear this weekend and man I noticed that the trans seems to be shifting alot more smoother. Its amazing what new fluid does and i have no clue when the last time it was changed so it was for sure needed. I was really suprised on what came in that transmission filter kit that i got for 14 dollars what a deal. On the inhibitor switch I tried to look up the one in the parts manual and i didn't fine any buddy that had one the part number i looked up was 31190 AA021 which had a discripsion of sw inhit assy. I brough the number to the local dealer and they couldn't find it in there system gave them the last 8 of my vin and they found this one 31918 AA000. Idk if this is the updated number that crosses with the old one but i noticed that mine has the harness build into the inhibitor switch. I know the guy at the parts counter said that i might need the additional harness that they showed in the system

[Legacy777]

The correct "old" part # for the inhibitor switch is 31910AA021. That supercedes to the new part # 31910AA070.

Are you thinking of buying a new inhibitor switch?

[slipknot51]

Yeah I was thinking of getting a new inhibitor switch. I found the the dealership has this number 31918 AA000. I looked at it and noticed that mine has the wiring comming out of the sensor and this one is just a plug that I would need a harness to connect it to the plug up at the top of the transmission

[Legacy777]

I think what the dealer had is a different one than what you need. The new pn # I listed is the correct one for your car and should have the wiring coming out of the sensor.

[slipknot51]

Do they have an additional harness that runs from the inhibitor switch to the connection at the firewall/top of trans. If I remember right I took and bypasses it on the harness side going to the inhibitor switch. I didn't see anything for wiring in the parts catalog

[Legacy777]

No, there's no additional harness, so it should be the same as the original harness and have a connector.

[91Beater]

You could wire in a toggle switch, and manually get it out of neutral once the car is started so you can rule it out.

[slipknot51]

So I was driving around tonight I was thinking how nice it would be to have to torque converter lock up in both 2nd and 3rd gear. The idea is more for locking it up for the 100% power transfer like a manual clutch idea unlike the usual 80-90% sleep the trans has. I feel like i get better power to the wheels when the torque converter is locked. I have been reading some of the post here on bbs and I was wondering is the 2nd gen automatic trans controller plug and play or is there some modification needed to make it work. If I remember right that the 2nd gen trans computer allows lock up in 2nd and 3rd but im guessing more for fuel ecconomy more then the power fact. I dont know much about the 2nd gen Legacies but I was wonder if they still have the power feature like the 1st gens or did they just have the trans run a 90/10 split or run full time 50/50.

[Legacy777]

I would guess the 2nd gen computers are going to have different TCU plugs and would not plug into the first gen legacies.

[slipknot51]

Ok I was actually thinking of maybe wiring in a latching relay to alow me once the 2nd gear solenoid engauges it would lock up the torque converter and I would have it once you step on the brake the relay would unlatch and alow the tcc clutch to release plus I would wire it to a toggle switch so it doen't lock up every time. I know the same concept could also be used with your radio and a door trigger to alow you to keep the radio on untell you open the door. I know that locking up the torque converter wouldn't be the issue. But im sure that it would be be more harmful to the trans then the tcc.

[Legacy777]

From my experience with the dropping resistor....I've found that these transmissions sometimes don't like you to mess with them. There may be unseen issues that could result.

In theory, what you're describing could be done, but honestly I don't think it's really going to be beneficial. The main advantage would be maybe better fuel economy, but I think you'd get issues with transmission if it sees the TC locked when the TCU isn't telling it to be locked. Plus it may go into a fail safe mode and cause other issues. Like I said, this may be one of those things that sounds great in theory, but because of unknowns in the transmission control logic, it may not produce the results you want.

[slipknot51]

Well Shifting gears hear a few days ago I started hearing some growling noised like possible a power steering pump going out. Like most stuff I checked my levels on the P/S and found them to be in proper range. I did notice that the car After doing a little more investigation I started to noticed that the noise went away once I shifted the car from Drive to Neutral and notice the noise came back when I placed it in Reverse and stopped in Park. The car only makes the noise when it was on forward or reverse gears the car itself seems to be driving fine besides the noise i hear

[Legacy777]

The pump in the ATF is exactly the same style (vane pump) that's in the power steering pump. It could be something with the vanes or a bearing. Either way.....I'd probably start looking for another tranny and drive this one until it dies.

[slipknot51]

Thats awesome news lol...not. Do you know of any ways to test to see if the pump is possible getting airated the trans has only 128k and I know that 122K of those miles were really light driving compaired to my driving. I just did a transmission service with a new filter about 3 weeks ago I double checked my fluids tonight and the fluid is right in the low full range i know if you over fill transmissions they usually cause issues same with low fluid. idk that just bumbs me out that my car could need a whole new trans is there any way I could change out the pump in the trans

[Legacy777]

The pump is integrated with the main shaft, you can't just replace it, and to inspect and see what's exactly wrong, the trans has to be disassembled.

[slipknot51]

So question before any removal is done should I do a stall test to see if its possible that the noise could be coming for the torque converter itself I know that the stator has a one way clutch in it and the turbine has a bearing in it could it be possible that one of those are making noise when under load. Im guessing the rpm's from a stall test would show if the torque converter or if i have a transmission issue. Im just trying to see if I can eliminate the transmisson from being the issue I rather take and replace the torque converter first then have to replace the trans since I cant find any turbo trans for cheap and local.But if I remember reading right for the turbo model stall speed should be from 2850-3250. I guess the noise has happend so recent that I haven't started to feel anything different in the way the car drives. Im just to scared to drive it since nothings wrong now. I just dont want to keep driving it and end up braking more stuff. Its like that ball joint that you have a little play in that you think to yourself Hmmm I should replace that but you end up delaying that until the next oil change and then you look at it again and now it has even more play and you don't get paid for another 2 weeks so you keep driving it until one day your driving down the highway and you hit a pot hole that bust the ball joint right off and there you are out of control one tire jammed in your fenderwell about to fall off and the other bearly holding on to the road trying to steer your self off the road causing alot more damage they just changing out the ball joint when you first found it

[Legacy777]

You can try a stall test, but honestly I'm not sure it can really tell you a difference between a problem in the TC and the trans.

[slipknot51]

Well I know its been almost over a month since I last updated this post. Today I took and got the car winterized if Im in need of storing it but I drained the transmission and inspected for metal in the fluid. Fluid looks good no metal in the system. I see that there is a internal filter in the transmission Im thinking i might of disterbed the filter oring were it meets with the intake of the pump and i think it could be why im sucking air from what its sounds like when the transmission is in gear