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So i recently got a 1994 subaru touring wagon. I got it with the check engine light on. It didn't feel it pull the same as other turbo legacys I've driven. The guy had it sitting for a year so I thought it would be lack of driving that the engine isn't pulling as hard. I drove it for a week, Still drove weak. My N/A sedan pulls harder then it. so I pulled codes and it gave me 21 and 22. So it the coolant sensor and the knock sensor. I got to replacing both of them and thought it would be good now. I drove it around for like 10 minutes and it was almost stalling and bogging a lot. I would step on it and nothing! No power at all. The check engine is still on for the knock sensor. but I know that a bad knock sensor isn't the cause of bogging and stalling because i drove me N/A around for like 5 months with a bad sensor and it worked just fine. So any ideas? it also gave like the "4 pops" out of the exhaust when i first drove it. Back fire or misfire? I don't know. Anything will help. I want to drive my wagon again.

Knock sensor has A LOT to do with the car bogging and feeling like there's no power under throttle load. The ECU is in limp mode, code 22 will do it. When my turbo sedan had a knock issue with the wiring at the plug, sometimes it would just go into limp mode and it had like no power. Make sure the knock sensor is on right, and plugged in properly. That spot under the manifold can be a pain. If you got it all hooked up right, check the continuity in the wire from the sensor to the ECU with a multimeter.

The pops were probably due to the ECU running rich as hell in limp mode.

robertpaige wrote:Knock sensor has A LOT to do with the car bogging and feeling like there's no power under throttle load. The ECU is in limp mode, code 22 will do it. When my turbo sedan had a knock issue with the wiring at the plug, sometimes it would just go into limp mode and it had like no power. Make sure the knock sensor is on right, and plugged in properly. That spot under the manifold can be a pain. If you got it all hooked up right, check the continuity in the wire from the sensor to the ECU with a multimeter.

The pops were probably due to the ECU running rich as hell in limp mode.

Damn. I feel like an idiot lol. When i placed the knock sensor in I out it facing the other way. plus It might be the plug. Time for more work. Need to get it running right. Thanks Robert.

Hey, that's how we learn! Make sure the metal ring side on the KS is on the block, or else it won't pickup signal properly. let us know if you still have issues.

I flipped the sensor around today into the right position and its still giving me the cel for the knock sensor. how do check the continuity of the wire?

You may need to clear your codes before checking your system readings again. You can look on Josh's website and follow the instructions, or I've also heard leaving your battery unplugged for several hours will do it.

You shouldn't have to reset your ECU, if the knock sensor is getting a signal your CEL should turn off. At least I know when mine had an issue, as soon as my knock wiring made contact and sent a signal my CEL would go off immediately and come out of limp mode shortly after.

Here is the ECU pinout for the EJ22T ECU - http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/

B56, Pin 5 - Knock Sensor (Signal)

To check the continuity, turn the dial on the multimeter to the indicator marked "ohms" to test for resistance. A continuity test is actually a test that resistance exists and there is not an open or broken circuit. The multimeter has two test lead wires on it that look like ballpoint pens. The red is the positive side; the black is the negative side. Place the end of each test lead of the multimeter at each end of the wire, one in the engine bay, and one at the ECU pin. If there is resistance in the wire, then the continuity test is positive and will show a value on the multimeter, the numbers will go up from 0.00. If the amount of resistance shows zero, then the wire or circuit is open or broken somewhere between the ECU and the harness leading into the engine bay.

Hope this helps.

Turns out my knock sensor wire is done for. How do I replace it? It seems like its 2 wires in 1.

Found the problem. Previous owner tighten a bolt over it cause it to ground and break. Now I have to replace everything.

The knock sensor wire is a shielded wire, and really needs to be a continuous wire from the ECU to the connector. You can try and find a replacement from a junkyard harness or a more realist and better option is to get some microphone cable from radio shack or similar store. It is shielded wire and you would just need to redo the connections at the ECU and connector.

What I'd suggest doing is stripping the stock wire back a few inches from the connector and splicing the microphone wire to it there. Do the same thing at the ECU. You'll need to make sure and connect the center signal wire and the shielding wire at the ECU. The shielding wire does not get connected to anything at the engine connector and should not touch the center wire or ground against the engine.

I know others have done this, and hopefully they can chime in on their experiences.

well it a good day! re-wired my knock sensor wire and no more cel! but still not getting power out of it. The turbo spools harder now and the engine pulls a little harder. Still not a lot of power. it once again gave me backfire. I drove it around and noticed it struggles to get past about 2700 rpm when i floor it. Pedal to the medal yet still very un powered. It seems like it might be vacuum leak. So i looked around and found this:



bad hose, I just moved it a little when i was looking around for the leak and it broke. I was on good when i was driving around. But when moved it a little it broke. Could this of been the leak? But the Hose wasn't broken when I drove it. Any ideas?
I also found this:



Can that crack also be a bad leak?

That is air escaping after the maf so yes that is bad . From what I heard that rubber 90 is discontinued from the dealer so search the junk yards and this forum for a decent used one

That small vac line is very important and will make your car barely drivable if craked/broken, it goes to the Pressure Exchange Solenoid and MAP sensor and if those aren't getting a right vac reading your car will fuel cut at anything above 1psi as a ECU failsafe.

The 90 degree turbo inlet is a big leak source, and YES that crack is causing a leak and making you run rich i'm sure. That line comes off the BPV return line, so it vents the air between the turbo and throttle plate back into the system once that plate closes off. Those elbows are hard to find, I would suggest a good amount of RTV seal and some gorilla tape to fix it for the mean time until you can get your hands on another elbow. Contact your local Subaru dealer to see if they can order you one from somewhere in the US, I think they're discontinued but there are a few left on order at some warehouses in the US.

try diesel devil for that 90 i got mine from him. they dont have any new ones in the states at all

Thanks guy. I'm going to the junk friday. I remember that a SS was there, Engine is gone but it seemed like they didn't care about air intake pieces and just threw them aside. The elbow was sitting right there and I never payed attention to it. I hope it still there. What size is the vacuum line size?

So I got around taking off the elbow and turns out there's oil in the elbow and the lines going into it. Now I'm worried . Any ideas why there's oil in there?

Oil in the intake is cause by increased 'blow by' from your breathers. Both breathers from each head tie into each other at the intake elbow, an oil catch can will help reduce oil entering the intake system. It did help on my car, if you would like, I can draw up a quick diagram of how you should install it. Check your PCV valve but removing the hose and unscrewing it from the intake manifold all the way and shake it, if you don't hear the pill inside rattling around freely, your valve may be stuck and take can cause issues. If you have low compression in cylinders, like blowby is getting past rings and such, you may have increased oil in your intake tract. But on boxer motors blowby is pretty normal for the most part. Your inlet doesn't look tooo bad, just looks pretty gunky from just a dirty motor.

So it's normal? Yeah I was reading on oil catches. If you can show me how? My pcv isn't connected to any hoses.

Yes, oil in the elbow is normal. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Get a new/used 90 degree elbow and replace that vacuum line going from the engine to the MAP sensor & pressure exchange solenoid.

Everything fixed. About time. But I believe there might be something wrong. It like gives me no torque. No big pull when stepping on it. Maybe a tune up might fix it? Or is it something else?

check ecu codes

No check engine light

Just great! Took off my spark plugs for the first time since I got my wagon and I found oil in my spark plugs. Thats not good. What now?

Put in some new NGK copper plugs and see how she runs.

well new spark plugs are in. running a little better. I guess I'm getting all the power i can get out of it now. There's just a big oil leak by the oil pan. I guess its problem after problem for me. Here's a few starting and running videos.




note the high pitch noise at 0:53. It sounds like the turbo grinding or something.

And this is the oil leak

click on thumbnails and it'll take you to the videos

pictures of the oil leak