Plazma's 4EAT -> 5MT swap!

[Plazma]

Phase 1: Removing the 5 M/T from the car getting really familiar with my 1990 Legacy.

So today began early, a little disappointed with the progress but still in good spirits over the whole thing. Started around 8am PST with hosing off as much of the grease/grime as I could. That's about where it stopped being easy. There were a couple hang ups with wiring harness and how the latch system works, but we got those solved pretty quickly.

The biggest lessons I learned is that penetrating spray would probably be really helpful as a lot of the nuts and bolts are ridiculously torqued down. I'm using a breaking bar on just about everything (I'm exaggerating here) so that slowed me down a little. I'm lucky enough to have someone helping me with this that's a big plus.

I've got the transmission disconnected up top, the axles are off the transmission. I also dropped the exhaust so it's out of the way. Tomorrow will be disconnecting the speedometer cable, dropping the drive shaft. Tried to drop it tonight but only managed to get the covering plates removed. The bolts on the drive shaft are really torqued down (makes sense) and I couldn't fit a socket in so I decided to call it a night and tackle it in the morning.

One real question: So when I was taking things out from the top side of the car, I came across another item under the master cylinder. I'm not sure what it is but it's plumbed into the master cyl with high pressure lines, but I have no idea what it's connected to I haven't traced the lines yet. I don't think it's a slave cylinder because it's a 90MY legacy. Is it another part of the braking system? I didn't thing to snag a picture of it before putting it away in a little baggie. Below you can see where it was.


Highlight of the day was getting my clutch (I went with an Exedy OEM replacement)

Things I've learned: Penetrating spray would be really helpful (buying some tomorrow), having a large collection of tools is extremely helpful. Dropping my first transmission is certainly outside my comfort zone, but after many hours under my old Subaru and learning it inside and out, I'm more in love with Subarus today than I was yesterday. Here's an album of the day's pictures I remembered to take
http://imgur.com/a/fvwWv

[Legacy777]

Thanks for sharing the info & pictures.

The thing below the brake master cylinder is the clutch pressure hold valve (hill holder). If you want to retain the hill holder you'll need to swap the brake lines and MC into the 4EAT car.

[Plazma]

Thanks Josh! I'm actually about to start working on the inside, taking out the pedals and such, just got home from a little lunch break.

[Plazma]

Phase 1 is officially complete.

Starting from the beginning, we forgot to remove the speedo cable yesterday so that was first up pretty straight forward. Last night we called it a night at the drive shaft only because we couldn't break the bolts they were really torqued down. I'm not sure if it was important but each of the bolts was marked, going to look under the A/T car to see if they're marked as well. The drive shaft was easy to take down once the bolts connecting the front section to the rear section were broken, they were torqued down pretty tightly as I mentioned. After that the bolts on the carrier bearing and the shaft just slides right out. Yesterday I took all the retainer screws out from inside the car. At this point there was one bolt holding the trans up.

With some minor coaxing and a couple lengths of rope that was it the transmission was free. We took it down with the cross member still attached to the bottom. At this point we jumped inside to take out the pedal assembly. Getting the pedals out was easier than anticipated (I'm afraid of getting them in on the other car).

later this week I'm going to unbolt it and give it a better power wash. I'll also be taking the shift linkage off the trans as well.

Album link here. I think I may have touched the lens with some grimey hands hence the unintended blur effect. http://imgur.com/a/LsoAk

Questions: Is it possible to keep the hill holder clutch option as well as ABS? I'm not sure about pulling all those break hardlines. Where is the Legacy Cruise control module located anyways?

[Legacy777]

The cable clutch pedal assembly is easy to the get in and out. The hydraulic setup is what sucks!

You should be able to keep the hill holder and ABS as long as you have the appropriate brake hard lines.

The cruise computer is the right of the glove box.

Have you looked through the pictures from my AWD & 5spd swap? There are a lot of pictures of the various components, including the cruise computer.

[Plazma]

Phase 2 started Monday night. I haven't put up pictures only because it would be a repetition of the stuff from phase one mainly. But over the last 3 nights I've been working solo for about 2-3 hours a night. In that time I've been able to remove the exhaust, break the front spindle nuts loose and disconnect the electronics. Working solo with only hand tools slows you down significantly. Tomorrow I'm planning on a long night. The list of things I want to complete tomorrow:

• Break the drive shaft connector nuts, and the carrier bearing bolts.
• Break all the Suspension nuts and knock out the rolled pins. Maybe pull the axles out depending on how far I get.
• Remove the starter motor.

I know it's going to be a long night, but having completed this on the first Subie, I already know what I have to do. But working with a head light and a work light makes it a bit slow. My air compressor pooped out on me so no air tools.

Saturday's plan is to power wash the undercarriage and get everything clear to drop the transmission. I want to get the shift linkage off the M/T so I can take the shifter down to Cobb and see if their short throw will work or if I need to buy the Subie genuine part.

Questions

• I'm looking at the MT joint that needs to be replaced for the Quick Shift. It's a pin that just needs to be punched out, how concerned do I need to be with the shaft that the joint is attached to when I go to knock out the pin?
• Does anyone have an ECU I/O diagram for the 90 legacy ecu? The one on Josh's site is for the 92 ecu if I'm understanding correctly.
• How does the hill holder system actually work?

Josh,

I haven't looked through all the pictures, I've been meaning to do that. I've mainly been reading but I need to really scour the electrical portion of your swap. I'm getting close to that part and like most people that work on cars as a hobbie, that's like black magic to me haha.

[Plazma]

Quick update, well I got the automatic transmission out. Turns out Josh that yes I did fill the wrong side. Rookie mistake on my part first time working with an automatic transmission job. Learned a valuable lesson there.

Bigger problem though if I'm honest. my key is stuck in the ignition. The transmission is out of the car and nothing is hooked up. It's stuck in accessories. I don't know how to get it out. Anyone have experience with this?

[Legacy777]

I would highly recommend you read through my electrical write up. I talk about all this stuff. You need to remove the key interlock computer.

Read these pages (bottom of 6-2 & 6-3) on how to get your key out.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ns/065.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... ns/066.jpg

[Plazma]

Just a small update.

Thanks for the scans Josh I got the key out with only minor difficulties as well as the Cruise control module on vehicle. I guess reading before hand is a big help


A quick question, I got my Exedy clutch and I think something might be wrong with the throwout bearing. Here's a picture of the new throwout bearing side by side with the old. It looks like the race is out of position.


And a well lit photo of the new throwout bearing:


Is this an issue? Should I contact Exedy to get a new one shipped out?

Finally the last part, the goodies bit. I went down to Subaru of Puente Hills and ordered my STi shifter, the part number was listed as CF1010FA002 (but my reading has told me that it's the same as the FA001). They didn't have it at the dealership but they ordered it from the warehouse and I should have it by Friday. I also ordered the joint along with it. I was told that the joint was on Delete status but that they had plenty in stock. The other sad news I got was that the 90MY was no longer in their computer and had been moved into the archives.

After leaving the dealership I took a little drive down to Fountain Valley CA and went to the Cobb Tuning store, I bought front and rear shifter bushings and I also got a tour of the facility it was pretty awesome as a matter of fact! I'd love to work for them.

[Legacy777]

That inner plastic piece does move around, so it shouldn't be an issue.

Regarding the 90 legacy not being in their computer, you can d/l the parts book from me which has all the part #'s for the first gen Legacy.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=30531

[Plazma]

New toys came today! Got my Short Throw, and joint from Subaru today, best 265 I've spent in a long time! Can't wait to get it all stitched up!

I purchased the cobb bushings to replace the stock ones. I know how the rear shifter bushing goes, just need to push out the anchor bushing and put in the new ones. Tomorrow I'm starting on the electrical stuff and taking the stock flywheel. I decided against the lighter flywheel primarily because the majority of my driving these days is on the 405 Freeway which means nothing but bumper to bumper traffic from start to finish.

Here's an album with photos of the shifter all the way around if anyone needs them for reference.
http://imgur.com/a/2Y08U

[Plazma]

What do they tighten those two screws on the steering column cover with?!

I've got 4/6 screws out to get full access to the ignition cylinder but I cannot for the life of me crack the 2 screws in the middle of the pattern. I've tried a drill, screw driver, air screw driver. I'm afraid to strip them, but I want to get that bottom cover off. Anyone have advice on that?

[Legacy777]

Are you talking about the two underneath? They are just tightened into the metal and are probably stuck. I would use a good quality phillips screwdriver or bit to get a good grab on the screws and try again. If they're stripped, you could try one of those damaged screw removers.

[Plazma]

So I got bored right now, went into the garage and installed my new short throw and put in the cobb anchor bushings. There's still slop at the anchor point, I'm guessing because the whole unit is hanging free not screwed down to anything. But after testing the shifts oh man this is going to be fantastic once this is all buttoned up. here are some pics.

http://imgur.com/a/Nyy5Q

[Plazma]

So I'm getting the transmission mounted but I have a question. On the clutch peddle I have 2 switches one is the interlock switch but what is the blue connection point about? It's not the B92 connector or the B45,

Picture for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/u7wxCio.jpg

[Legacy777]

It's the cruise control clutch cut switch. If you have the cruise on it will cut the cruise off if you depress the clutch. It does the same thing as if you hit the brake pedal.

[Plazma]

It's been a couple weeks since I've been able to update, but I'm happy to report major progress!

The transmission, after some struggling is mounted up and bolted down. Now it's a matter of shoring up the small things.

I'll be able to actually start it up tomorrow and see if all my work pays off. There were a couple questions I had some I think I solved for myself, others are still up in the air.

From reading some service manuals, the clutch cable adjustment seems pretty straight forward. If I'm correct you tighten it until there's no clearance between the cable and the clutch fork, then turn it about 0.2 inches past, or about 5mm. Anyone out there have experience with cable clutch calibration? This is my first time adjusting one.

Another question I have is about the hill holder and clutch pedal. When I pulled the pedal box out of my old car there was no spring assist on the clutch pedal. In putting the new car together, I left out the Hill Holder for the time being because of the brake line issues, I'll be mapping out those brake lines later so that I can reinstall the hill holder. My question however is, because there was no spring assist on the clutch pedal my assumption is that the hill holder was used as a return spring for the clutch arm. I noticed that the cable bracket on the hill holder is spring loaded so that's what I'm assuming is it's other function.

Then there's one final question. I'm looking at the cruise control diagrams, and it looks to me like the B88 cruise clutch switch has a 12v source from the coil of the B83 connector. It then runs to part of the switch at B88 and Pin 1 from B88 runs to ground on itself. I'm really confused by the schematics that Josh uploaded.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... ntrol1.jpg

Tomorrow I have a pretty short list of things I need to do. I should have the car running in just a few hours. Once it's running I'll upload the rest of the pics I have.

[EJ22T SS]

I swapped a 5mt into my 1993 turbo Legacy sedan this summer. Your going to like it.

Funny thing was that you were watching Tombstone the movie on your computer, while making some of your posts. (Can see it on computer screen. in photos.) While I was looking at your posts Tombstone on my TV screen.

Enjoy the 5-speed.

[Plazma]

Well...I've got no spark.

Harnesses hooked in and everything bolted down, moment of truth when I turned the key and there's nothing. My dash lights come on, but when I depress the clutch, there's no spark just silence.

My gauge cluster lights up and all the lights come on, but no cranking no nothing.

My guess is I soldered the ignition harness/Neutral switch wrong.

[EJ22T SS]

Run hot wire to starter from battery with push button momentary switch.

Turn key on all the way. Push starter button. That how I start both of mine.

[Plazma]

Yeah I'm gonna jump the neutral switch tomorrow and see if that does the trick. I'm not to sure about the ignition switch harness I made though I think I may have crossed a couple wires. Pretty sure tomorrow it'll turn over. I'll keep you posted.

[Plazma]

Alright, I sorted the ignition issue. Turns out a wire at the starter was missing. What I ended up doing was pulling apart the harness made for the B15 connectors on the transmission, I ran one of the jumpered wires (BY wire I believe) to the starter and once that was done the engine started cranking.

Of course now I've run into the next set of problems. I'm not sure if the amount of time that my car was sitting (appx. a month. I only get 1-2 days a week to work on this) long enough but for some reason I'm not getting pressurized fuel to the motor. I've got power going into the fuel pump, and the fuel pump whirrs up but I'm not sure if it's just old and tired and not making enough pressure or what. That's the only thing I can come up with because I didn't mess with any wires from the fuel system.

[ride_child]

have you checked the plug that goes from the harness to the fuel pump assembly? its a pretty common problem for those connecters to get burnt out and need to be replaced.

[Plazma]

have you checked the plug that goes from the harness to the fuel pump assembly? its a pretty common problem for those connecters to get burnt out and need to be replaced.

Are you talking about the white 6 point connector that's on the pump itself? Not the wires coming from the car correct?

[ride_child]

if you pull the rear seat cushion, itll be right there on the passenger side. but yes its a white 6 pin connector