EJ22T Rebuild Time

[92legacyawdturbo]

Alright so its time for me to change it up and do something with it now as keeping her around longer. Currently 207K on the block all stock. I have some 25D heads sitting around that others have been recommending for running more boost through with the better flow they produce. I am curious on thoughts of which way to go. Would like to be able to make some decent hp numbers with this setup as well. Run about 300 whp would be nice. So curious as what injectors needed to go with this setup, if I should use 25D heads like everyone says to and maybe run the fp hta68 turbo combo with it. Any thoughts I would appreciate on this. Thanks.

[wtdash]

HI,
If you're 'all stock' then the easiest option is to throw on the EJ25D heads (many writeups on here), get some EJ20G/K turbo cams (NASIOC has 'em on occasion), and run the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU w/the 525cc STI side-feeds.. MikeyMeyagi did this and w/a VF23, FMIC, EJ20K cams, Robtune ecu on the stock block and 25D heads made ~ 300HP/Torque, IIRC. The limitation of any EJ20G/EJ22T -based ECU is the MAF, which maxes out b4 you can get past 300HP...usually 19-20 PSI, I believe.

That HTA68 is an awesome turbo from everything I've read, but don't know its optimum range.

If you want 300+ or bust, you'll need to look into a stand-alone engine manaement (EM) and different MAF or speed-density setup....personally I wouldn't put over 250 to the stock EJ22T in the interest of longevity.

If you've got the $$ and can stand some extended downtime, get your block machined for some Wiseco's or other forged pistons and updated rods. The you're ready for 300+ w/out much worry....if you figure out a suitable EM solution.

Oh, BTW? Don't forget to save for a new transmission as you reach 300+.

TD

[92legacyawdturbo]

Sorry as I may have forgot to mention about getting Forged pistons as well for this setup. Transmission is another thought in my mind to pull and either get built or buy somewhat decent one.

[92legacyawdturbo]

So been figuring things out here and there. Got priced out options on my build for parts. Obviously EJ25D heads, I will look at some cams of EJ20G/K. I got Forged pistons for $600 pricey start but worth it lol. New 11MM oil pump for $160. New bearings $120. 550 CC injectors $155. New TD05 16G $300. Water pump $100. Timing belt kit $120. Alternator $115. Thermostat $30. Starter $110. So waiting to hear on Rods and crank new price from my source. Also have some questions on the clutch part as well, what stock clutch holds to or if go to stage 2 on it. Let me know on that part. Also had a question of MAF as if anything I can do to help change that to make it push more, I would appreciate some input on that part. Thanks

[wtdash]

Are those custom-built 2.2 pistons or OTS (off the shelf)? The Wisecos are ~$500 but require the cylinders to be bored. They do/did sell a set specifically for the EJ22T/EJ25D head combo, too.

The stock Hitachi metal MAF on the EJ22T flows LESS than the JECS/AUTECS green-label MAF on the '92+ non-turbo models (all 1.8. 2.2 and 2.5 'til '98/'99, I believe). The JECS/AUTECS version is also used on the EJ20G ECUs - including the Rob-Tune.

I've not come across any other MAFs that work w/the Subaru ECUs. But the Z32 from a Nissan/Infiniti flows more according to Rob......but you'd need some other kind of EM to run it.

Td

[mike-tracy]

Ask Nico about running a 11mm pump. The 11mm pump has more flow, but the 10mm has more pressure - and is used by all the older (non-avcs) high revving JDM engines.

[Legacy777]

Cliff notes regarding Mike's comment....don't run the higher flow pump unless you have the need for it.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Thanks for the info on the oil pump, save me some money haha. Also the block will be bored for pistons. Have a couple JECS versions for free I can get and am planning the 550 Rob tune. Also what about clutches, I have an act 2100 in there now but would like to replace as old and motor will be out.

[macipusy]

You can run any 02 WRX style clutch setup. I liked the ACT SB5 HDSS on my 91SS. The pedal is a little stiff. I really like the Clutch Masters FX300 so far on my RSTi....super soft pedal feel (like stock) and I'm still breaking in the disk.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Thanks for the input on that part. Motor is getting pulled this weekend and then off to rebuild it. Yay! Just figured mine as well get a clutch in there since its out.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Also another question will the ej25d heads fit right with forged pistons from wiseco K601M975? Also what is the correct bore since going .20 over will those pistons work? Just making sure its a straight drop in. Also what do EJ20G cams go for as I have a buddy who has a set but not sure on price. Forged pistons say 97.50mm (+.020" Overbore) and cometic head gasket says 98mm bore is this correct ? Please let me know

[macipusy]

The K601M975 pistons look like they will work. They list them for the 75mm stroke (ej22t crank), 5.137" rods (ej22t, ej205, ej257) and 46.6cc combustion chamber volume (ej25d DOHC heads 97-99 not 96). The K601M975 are 0.020" over bore pistons. You will have to have the block bored....make sure you get the pistons first and drop them off at the machinist with the block. The machinist should mark each piston to the corresponding cylinder. If the block is already bored, there should only be about 0.003" - 0.004"max clearance between the piston with no rings and the cylinder wall. Anything more will cause continual piston slap.

They list a 8.6:1 CR with a 0.051" thick HG....I believe that is compressed HG thickness.

The HG should be a larger bore than the cylinder....by about 0.5mm. That is how my stroker is set up...97.5mm piston with 98mm HG.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Thanks for all the info on that part just buying parts now and wait for things to come in. Then the fun project starts. For break in what do you recommend as I have heard different ways but figure to ask on here as well

[macipusy]

For break in on my motor, I used the oil recommended by SUBA Performance. Below is the process I am using currently.

Using Rotella T 15W-40 for the first 3K miles. First oil change at 20 minutes, the next at 500 miles then at 1500 miles. After that I decided to do another 1500 miles and then switch to regular dino oil 5W-30. At 10K miles I plan on switching to semi-synthetic.

I drove the car nice with low boost (wastegate psi) at first, rev limited to 4K RPM, after 500 miles at 5K and after 1200 miles at 5.5K RPM. I plan on going full 7K RPM once I switch to 5W-30. The oil pressure with the Rotella seems low, because of its viscosity.

It is important during break in to drive through the whole RPM range, as well as, acceleration and deceleration and never 'hang out' in a constant RPM.

I'd like to hear what others are doing for break in.

[cj91legss]

Dumping the clutch on initial startup!

[92legacyawdturbo]

Awesome will listen to that advice lol. Also another question on possible different rod setup here is some info I found and curious if this would work for my ej22t.

Part Number: CRS5137S3D
Notes: Forged Steel H-Beam Connecting Rods; Set Of 4
Manufacturer: Eagle
Bolts: ARP 2000
Weight: 530g
Length: 5.137"

Would like to know cause if so will order them now. Thanks

[92legacyawdturbo]

Any more info on this be great!

[mike-tracy]

Well, the stock ej257 rods are forged, lighter and good to "only" 450whp. Their failing point above 450whp are the bolts, but ARP and others sell upgraded replacement bolts. Those are my preference and what I've used with forged wisecos. Lighter rods=better response. How much better, I couldn't tell you, but balanced lightweight rods and crank make for a sweet revving engine.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Yea that is some good info but not looking to make more than that honestly and wanting to see if the Eagle part number one I posted would work with the EJ22T, if they will than I could order and wait for them to come in to start this project.

[mike-tracy]

I'm on my phone right now and can't look the info up easily, but aftermarket, stock length rods that fit ej205, ej207 or ej257's fit our crank.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Alright so as of right now got these parts ordered:

Wiseco forged pistons 97.5 (0.20 over)
Eagle H Beam Rods
ACL Race bearings
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
Gates timing Belt
Group N engine mounts
10MM oil pump

Waiting on pistons to come in to have blocked bored and honed.
Crank getting repolished.

EJ25D heads already have them.

[Legacy777]

I've heard mixed comments on the Cometic head gaskets.

Any thoughts from those that have run them?

[mike-tracy]

No personal experience but my machinist said you have to have a perfectly machined surface on the block and heads.

[92legacyawdturbo]

Not sure but going with a well known guy here for machining as he has many subarus done by people I know personally and others around.

[macipusy]

Which machine shop are you using, if you don't mind me asking?