O2 sensor

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:02 pm

Brand new at the dealer : 297$CAD + tax (15%) ...

Cavalier 99 2.4l, 1 wire O2 sensor : 32$CAD + tax(15%) ...

i think i'll give the cavalier one a chance to proove what she can do

what do you think ? know of any other O2 sensor that would fit our 2.2l ?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Wed Mar 26, 2003 11:17 pm

The one off a Cavalier won't really do; it's not heated. Ours are.

You can get a universal 3-wire heated sensor for around $40 US from http://www.buyoxygensensors.com/ though.

The thing is, somehow the sensors for our cars are a little different; I'm not sure if a universal sensor would do. The part numbers and nominal voltages are different between N/A and turbo BC/BFs.

Has your sensor died? If you need to, you can just disconnect it and let the ECU run open loop until you can afford the sensor.

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Thu Mar 27, 2003 4:48 am

Now keep in mind this is an N/A sensor, so don't go ordering this one, but this is from www.subaruparts.com:

22690AA150 P1230993 Oxygen Sens (List) $119.95 (Your Price)$91.40

Plus 10% shipping, I don't think a turbo one would be much more.

Of course this is in US $, I don't know conversion rates. But I think all of us will agree that this place gets you parts the cheapest, those are close to wholesale prices...

Of course since I work at a dealer myself, I get that price at my local dealer anyway

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Mar 27, 2003 5:40 am

The turbo part number is 22690AA161, list price about $130. The aforementioned site lists the price at around $99.

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Sat Apr 12, 2003 2:43 pm

Update : so finally, the WOT lack-of-power thing i was experiencing since the begining, an intermittent problem, was caused by the O2 sensor.

I did a simple test... O2 connected, car runned like crap. O2 disconnected, WOW ! nice clean steady power, no vibration, no hesitation.. nothing. O2 connected, car runned like crap again.

So i bought a BOSH single wire universal sensor (50$), just to monitor what's going on, i will not hook it into the ECU, and i will manage Air/Fuel myself with the Electronic Box i'm building.

end of story - "Thank you come again"

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Sat Apr 12, 2003 10:11 pm

finaly, couldn't avoid pluging the sensor into the ECU. ... but WOW ! what a difference with that sensor than with my old one ! hehe

And again, I saved 240$ ! Yesterday was a great day

(saved 240$ on the engine mounts, saved 240$ on the O2 Sensor

)

IggDawg · Post by **IggDawg** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:49 am

sorry I didn't see this sooner. if the one in the NA legacies is the same I could have gotten one from teh pick-apart and gotten it to you for the cost of shipping. anyone else need an O2 sensor?

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:53 am

No prob, with that kind of "time wearing" parts, i prefer to go with new parts !

And now that my car is cured and pulls so hard, i'm totaly in love ! haha

mikec · Post by **mikec** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 3:14 am

Where is the connector that everyone is unplugging? Is it right by the sensor itself? I think I want to try this!

IggDawg · Post by **IggDawg** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 3:54 am

Yeah, I'd love to give this a shot so long as I could still get readings from the sensor. I have the sensor's green wire tapped at jsut after the first connector upstream. is there another connector I can disconnect?

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:25 am

Yup that's the connector located at like 5 inchs from the sensor...

humm, that one on the left :

Igg: i was also getting readings that looked "good" to me with the old sensor. but that was not good for the ecu as it seems.. :\

Car runned good with the o2 sensor unplugged, Better with the new O2 sensor, and "Like Crazy" with the mixture leaned (bov to intake hose disconnected temporarly) and, 12psi of boost of course ! hehe

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:48 am

Morgie, so your ECU's happy with a non-heated sensor?

I've always wondered why Subaru has different part numbers for different cars' oxygen sensors, and actually specifies different nominal voltages on them. I always thought that no ECU used a conventional oxygen sensor for anything other than reading "rich" or "lean."

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 1:12 am

seems to ! and it's really quick to warm-up and begin to give readings. My old one had a warm-up period of over 2 minutes. the new one, 30 sec. and it's ok (my street has 1km and, the morning, cold-start, i get good readings before i reach the end of the street! )

The Technical director at my dealer told me that i simply had to find a 0-1volts O2 sensor (they are almost all 0-1volts) and that would be Ok.

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 3:05 am

Well.......I did some testing tonight.

I decided to pull the O2 sensor, just for kicks and giggles.

Actually.....seems to run pretty good. I didn't drive too long though. I'm goin to leave it off tomorrow while I go to work.

However I did not stop there........I decided to plug my select monitor in and see what the ECU was thinking. It basically set the O2 voltage to 0.6 volts, which is slightly on the rich side. I need to do some testing tomorrow with the O2 sensor plugged in to see what the actually readings are when everything is connected. If it's above 0.6, then she's running pretty rich.....which either is the O2 sensor's problem......or else I have other issues which is causing the car to run rich.

What do you guys think? What's a "normal" O2 sensor voltage?

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 3:35 am

Other thing I forgot to mention is that I was watching the Knock sensor Redtard values.

previously I hadn't seen it do anything. With the O2 sensor off I got -5 deg.

The only issue is I don't know if it means -5 degrees of retard, which would be advance......or if it means actual -5 degrees of timing.

Well....looked at FSM.......

It says "Correction value of ignition timing" So I guess that would mean it's taking 5 degrees of timing away.....correct?

Other weird thing I noticed is that the barometric pressure reading would switch from 760 mmHg to 752 mmHg sporadically......The barometric pressure reading for the ECU and the TCU are different. I've been told this is normal.....but.....I don't know.....

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 4:30 am

I would like to know more about it by your testing and post!
Ben

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 2:01 pm

Well on the drive into work this morning the CEL came on. It didn't come on at all last night, or show any issues with the select monitor plugged in.......unless the select monitor bypasses something.....??

I still think it pulls better from a dead stop when I floor it, and there's not a massive blahhh region from idle to about 3000 rpm.

I'll drive it like it is on the way home, and then I'll plug it back in and see how it likes it.

morgie · Post by **morgie** » Tue Apr 15, 2003 10:34 pm

I unplugued the O2 sensor at about 14h, and the CEL came out only once, at 19h. i drove with the car all after-noon

RaZor · Post by **RaZor** » Wed Apr 16, 2003 12:00 am

I disconnected mine as well...Runs better...but CEL comes after 5 minutes every time...

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Apr 16, 2003 3:49 am

Well I plugged it back in and did some more testing with the select monitor.

It definitely feels better after mid throttle. I think there is just a dead spot from idle to about 3000-4000 rpm......as to why.....I'm not sure....possibly vacuum leak or some other issue.

The retard correction stayed about the same as it was while I had things unplugged. When I cleared the code with the monitor....the retard correction went back to 0 for the most part. There is a certain rpm range where I get like -1 for the retard correction. I think there's a harmonic frequency setting the sensor off at that frequency range.

The O2 readings seemed normal and good....I don't know.....

Wish I could see cam & crank readings as well......oh well.....I did check the belt when replacing the radiator last weekend. I turned the crank and the cam gears turned exactly with the crank. There's still a possibility the tensioner is worn out and causing some issues.

In another 10k miles it'll need a timing belt, and I'll replace the idler arm as well to see if that makes any difference.l

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O2 sensor

O2 sensor