My poly bushings journal update 8-21-08

[n2x4]

I had done some looking around at different bushings, and Prothane seemed to have what I was looking for.

For $90 shipped, I got control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings, sway bar, and shifter bushings. The kit I got is #16-2001 It's listed for 97-05 impreza or something like that.

They're always on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0092253365

My initial thoughts on the kit is that all the bushings but the front swaybar ones will work on the Legacy.

I won't be installing the swaybar bushings, nor the shift bushing, so I'll try and sell those.

So we'll see how much a chore installing control arm and trailing arm bushings are.
My Predictions:
The front control arm bushing should be easy, since it's 2 pieces. The rear bushing will probably suck, and I might just forget about it and buy the whiteline ALK instead. That way I've got poly and alk without the hassle.

Rear trailing arm front bushing is gonna suck. It's huge and one piece. The rear bushing will be a little better, since it's 2 pieces. I'm not quite sure where it goes though. I'm assuming it replaces the bottom bushing in the hub, but I'm not sure.

If anyone was considering doing this, I took the dive, and I'll keep updating this thread as I progress. When I get home, I'll get the part #'s for just the control arm and trailing arm packages, since I think those are the best pieces out of this kit.

[jamal]

The rear bushing will probably suck, and I might just forget about it and buy the whiteline ALK instead. That way I've got poly and alk without the hassle.

Rear trailing arm front bushing is gonna suck. It's huge and one piece. The rear bushing will be a little better, since it's 2 pieces. I'm not quite sure where it goes though. I'm assuming it replaces the bottom bushing in the hub, but I'm not sure.

$90, wow. That's less than half the price of superpro or group n.

I was thinking of going with ALK instead of pressing the rear bushing as well.

Yes I've heard the front trailing arm is hard. It's nice that your rear bushing is two piece because I've heard it's also a pain in the ass to press that group n part in and that you need to make a tapered sleeve to do it.

bigskywrx on nasioc has done tons of bushings and made a little tool to press them in. searching for his posts should come up with it.

That seems to have the 2nd gen front swaybar bushings. If you want to order some whitelines, globalperformance has them and the part number is W0404-[mm], front and rear. I got a set when I put on my front swaybar and they seem to have made a difference.

[IronMonkeyL255]

The SuperPro front & rear trailing arm bushings are 3-piece bushings. 2 halves of the bushing and a metal sleeve to fit in it.

[jamal]

The SuperPro front & rear trailing arm bushings are 3-piece bushings. 2 halves of the bushing and a metal sleeve to fit in it.

cool so just like the front control arm. They should pretty much press in by hand then.

[IronMonkeyL255]

That's what I am hoping.

I will try to get mine installed next week since it's my spring break.

[kidatari]

Hmm, I might have to pick up that set. Waiting to see how your install goes

[IronMonkeyL255]

I already did the steering rack bushings, and they fit perfectly. I only broke 1 bolt, too.

I am thinking the most difficult one will be the rear A-arm bushing, since I need to line it up right and press it in (it's an offset bushing. Like an ALK, only SP legal).

[n2x4]

Jamal, thanks for the heads up.

I found the thread on NASIOC:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393476

I guess the bushings that I have that I said were 2 piece really are three piece. They've got a metal sleeve as well.

[n2x4]

Just a update, I started on the rear trailing arm bushings the other day. To get the big front bushing out, I rented a ball joint press from Autozone to push out the rubber bushing from the metal band that goes around it. Then I took a chisel and bent the band in. With a little gap since it was bent, I took an air chisel and sawed all the way through it. New bushing install took about 2 minutes once I had it in a vise.

So for the front bushing, it probably took me 40 minutes of work time, and 20 minutes of planning. The second one won't be so bad now that I know what I'm doing. Looks to be worth it, it's substantially stiffer than the stock one.

I'll take pics when I get home. Next up is the rear trailing arm bushing in the bottom of the hub.

[jamal]

cool. I hear that's the hardest one to get out.

I was looking at the prothane catalog and it bugs me that they list 98-05. There are two different front control arm bushing sizes for those years. GD/GGs bushings are a few mm longer (I think 61 vs 58). With the stock parts it is possible to cut a bit off though.

[BAC5.2]

You can push out the GD/GG bushing, and replace it with the GC/GF/BC bushing and the WRX control arms are then a direct bolt-in, aren't they?

[jamal]

You can push out the GD/GG bushing, and replace it with the GC/GF/BC bushing and the WRX control arms are then a direct bolt-in, aren't they?

yes or you can trim off a bit. There's a little ridge or something on the bushing that marks where to cut. Of course the sedan ones would widen the track.

My thought was that his new poly bushings might be the wider ones for a GD/GG

[n2x4]

I've got two bushings for the front control arm. The rear one that a ALK takes care of, and the front one that goes into the subframe. Which are you talking about?

[555BCTurbo]

I have that same kit...just haven't installed it yet

[jamal]

front one that goes into the subframe.

To fit it should be 58mm long. I just e-mailed prothane about this.

[n2x4]

One side done! Wasn't too bad.

Here's a pic of the rear bushing that goes at the bottom of the spindle. It was cake compared to the front bushing. I just used the smallest ring piece that came with the tool I rented, 2 washers and a nut and bolt. I started to tighten it down and it pulled the old bushing right out. The new bushing went in by hand since it was 2 pieces. I got it done in about 10 minutes.



Front bushing:



Comparison of the old and new rear bushing:



The tool that makes this all possible. Ball Joint Press. I rented it from Autozone for 30 days with a $99 deposit. I can't find the receipt, so hopefully I can return the rental without it



Other side and then the rear is done. Not too motivated for the front. All in time I guess.

Edit: I found the package with the Prothane part number for just the rear bushing kit:

16-301
WRX RR Trailing Arm Kit 98-05

[jamal]

looking good. I'm still waiting on prothane about the front control arm bushings

[ericem]

just wondering would switching to poly bushings make the car more rough?

[n2x4]

They say replacing any bushing with ones stiffer than stock will increase NVH. How much of a difference these made I dont know yet cause I haven't driven the car with them on. I wouldn't think they'd make that much of a difference though.

I've got the rear done on both sides now. I'd have liked to do the lateral links while I was at it, but I didn't have those bushings. I've also replaced the rear drop link bushings for the swaybar with poly ones as well. I wrote a how to up on those a while back.

After doing the other side, I don't really know that the Autozone tool was needed. If you had just a piece of pipe that had an inner diameter of the lower bushing on the hub, you'd be fine too. I really liked the air chisel though. I know not everybody has air tools, but for taking out the metal band from the front trailing arm bushing, it rocks. Cut through it like butter. Scuffed up the arm a bit but I ground it smooth and it's fine. Pressing the band out or chiseling it by hand would have taken forever.

Jamal, by the time Prothane emails you back, I'll probably have gotten motivated enough to try the front bushings.

[BAC5.2]

I'm curious about the rearward front bushing that the ALK replaces. How much of a pain in the ass is that going to be?

By the time it's all said and done, the only OEM bushings I'll have to replace will be those two control arm bushings. I know the front one is relatively easy (espically since the control arm will be off the car), but I'm curious about the rearward bushing. I've got plenty of air tools, so it shouldn't be too bad.

[jamal]

I don't imagine it will be really easy, but I guess it doesn't matter if you destroy the old one getting it out. When I do bushings I'm just going to put on an alk to make things easier.

[BAC5.2]

But I don't want or need an ALK on the Forester.

And destroying the bushings doesn't bother me.

[93forestpearl]

I've done all the bushings, and yes, its a blast

I noticed a decent amount of NVH from the rear. Some bumps just sound alot worse than they are. Sharp bumps can give more of a kick to the interior.

They DO require maintenance though. If you drive them through a salty winter, the grease won't last. Matter of fact, I should re-grease mine.

[n2x4]

Replacing the rear bushing on the front control arm might be a little messy. It's liquid filled. When I bent my control arm it popped that bushing and there was goo all over the place.

[n2x4]

I test fit the front bushing for the control arm and it's a tad too big. I don't think there'd be an issue if I shortened it a little bit.