legacycentral bbs

Couldn't find an LED that wasn't burnt out so I'll have to try that tommorow. I did just use a normal test light and that didn't light up. What kind of current should those injectors be getting out of curriosity?

You could be right, I'll certainly check it out. In any case it just seemed to make sence since my car seems to be seriously over-fueling.

I'll let you know shortly what I find.

Ok, here is the latest.

With the ecu totally unplugged measuring with a multimeter I get the following readings.

Injector 1, 2, and 3 to either injector ground - 0.3M ohms.
Injector 4 to either ground - open.

Result - all injector plugins have 12v and aren't grounded (as to be expected as they ...

Oh, sorry forgot to respond to your last question. No, I am not pulling your collective legs, I really wish I was and that I could go out and drive my car but unfortunately I can't. I understand why you had to ask though...

Very confused that's all.

What I meant was that there must be some signal in the 26 pin connector that is making the injectors come on - besides the fact that it grounds the injector.

The computer was tested good as I just put it in my brothers car and tried it out.

When I am measuring voltage at the injector yes of course ...

Well pulled my ecu, plugged it my brothers car and all works well on his car? Therefore the ecu is good for certain :)

Here is something interesting I have found. With the 22 pin connector unplugged from the ecu I have 11.56v across the injector, with the 22 pin connector plugged in I have 12.07v ...

Yes, using a digital multimeter. The battery reads 12.41 and all injectors read 12.09. Unfortunately I can't find an old analog one around that works.

Pulled connections on ecu and found that the 26 pin one stopped the grounding but the 22 pin one didn't change anything.

What else, oh good ...

Umm... this was determined because I have 12v across the injectors at all times car running or not, key in the ignition or out... My car doesn't even run right now.... my poor suby...

Yes, that is correct, if I disconnect the harness the injector is no longer grounded. I am at school in a FEA lab right now but when I get home I'll test the individual connectors that you mentioned.

Yes, both computers held the injectors open. I could swap the computer in my brothers car out to I suppose, I know for a fact it works - but so did my spare I was driving that car not to long ago.

Yep, if I disconnect the harness to the computer the injectors close.

Yes the check engine light ...

That's a good point, my battery was drained when I had left it sitting for 6 weeks. Problem started just before I went out of town for the summer.

ECU doesn't appear to be powered all the time since test mode only responds when the ignition is in on position.

If I disconect the 4 connectors ...

Car seems to be overfueling and won't run. Actually it will barely starts before it coughs and sputters to death. Have been testing different things and then I saw that my injectors always have 12V across them- not just the + voltage they are supplied with, but the across them!

What in the world is ...

All vacuum hoses check out good, knock sensor reconected, and plugs appear to only have fuel on them. They come out wet and black but evaporate quickly and the substance doesn't seem at all slick to the touch like oil... I am running out of ideas. What sensor could make the car over fuel so much?

Just finished a FMIC setup with a 60 trim T3 turbo.

After setup car ran well till I spun off the compressor wheel bolt on the turbo. (Due to blow off valve not "blowing off") I took the turbo off and fixed the problem. Later that day I blew an air hose during a high boost run just as I let off ...

If both crank and cam sensors are working what else could be breaking the chain and keeping the coil from firing and the tach from working?

I just finished putting an engine into my 91T. Did quite a bit of custom work to the set up while it was out of the car. Anyways just finished hooking everything back together today and to my dissapointment no spark.

Here is what's going on....

When I crank the engine the tachometer doesn't bounce ...

Thanks

If the wristpins don't appear to be offset and the piston fits in the cylinder and appears to be ok what do you think?

I am rebuilding an old EJ22T I have.

When I pulled out the pistons one had a significant amount more scratching on the side then the others. I was told I should replace it.

I have some used pistons out of another EJ22T but unfortunately the scratching on the one I need is worse then the one I ...

Well not sure how to post picks, do I need to upload them to a site first??
-Mark

We'll see what happens, I have to walk through a few feet of snow to a little shed in the back and see if I can find the stock turbo. Hopefully it's on the top of the pile of old parts

Should have it posted tommorow evening though.

-Mark

Well I am going to pull of the TDO4 tommorow, seems as if my oil return line is leaking. If I can find the origional turbo I'll put them side by side and see if my bro will lend me his digital camera. Then you can see the difference.

Ya, it was the MATE contest your right.

-Mark

Is that the only spelling mistake I made? That would be amazing! I bet all my posts are filled with spelling mistakse if you look a little closer so you may have a lot of work on your hands...

The hood scope was off an old 5.0L. It happened to be black and so was my car. Actually I just drilled four little holes in my hood and on it went. It seemed to fit the profile of the hood well. If you really wanted it perfect I am sure just a little filler would make a nice contour from the hood to ...

I hear what you are saying, just been doing it for a year without any problems so far - who knows though - figuring on a high factor of safety:) If I had some extra money I would certainly do a few things but as a poor student in mechanical engineering thats the way it goes for now.

On the other ...