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I put about 10k miles on them with no problem (sold car). Never had magnecores, so I can't compare, but they are of good quality. The ones I had were 8mm, I believe.

for about $25, you can get an accel wire kit. I did the same conversion, and this is what I used. The wires are plenty long...just cut them to proper lengtn.

one thing...
if you're planning on using a turbo with the turbo engine, it's WAY easier to install it on the engine with the engine out of the car.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

huge selection

I'm not sure if it's closed deck or not. Being that it's from the early '90's, it might be.

I'm pretty sure the v8 manifold would not fit. Plus, the sensors/conectors would be different.

If you want boost, you might consider getting an ej20g. It would probably be cheaper/easier in the long run.

yes (assuming the ej20 and ej20g layout is the same). when you see the two engines side by side, you'll see what needs to be extended. I think I had to extend a total of about six wires. It's not too bad at all.

one other thing... if the ej20 has coil on plug ignition, you'll have to find a place ...

no problem.

the ej20g is the turbo model.

the following is based on my experience of installing a jdm ej20g into my 1991 ss, so I can't guarantee accuracy for your swap.


1. not sure...my ej20g is dual

2. most likely...I was able to.

3. I was able to use the ej20g cam sensor, and it works just fine.

4. use your ej22 injectors, ej22 ecu ...

You have to pull the fork up so that it disengages from the throw out bearing. You'll be able to feel it when this occurs.

The fork does not need to come out of the bell housing (I don't think it would fit anyway).

BAC5.2 wrote:

heelhooker wrote:There is also a bracket that attaches the turbo to the block.

No there isn't. There's a bracket holding the uppipe to the block. The turbo just sits on the uppipe.

LOL. I really wonder what the purpose of that bracket could possibly be.

There is also a bracket that attaches the turbo to the block.

have you checked compression?

I'm currently using NGK BKR7E's. They seem to work really well.

vrg3-

The density ratio would be <2 because the manifold temp would be higher than ambient temp.

This means less fuel, so it shouldn't matter.

You can remove the top (make sure to mark it's position first!!!!), and see if the shaft moves freely. If id does not, try freeing it up and running brake cleaner through it to clean it.

Mine was completely siezed. After breaking it loose, it works fine.

"What has a response time on the order of seconds, now? Nothing I'm doing here will be too slow, I will see to that... "

I'm not saying anything you're doing will be too slow. I'm saying the termperature sensor itself is too slow.



"What do RTD and TC stand for? Are you talking about temperature ...

One thing about speed-density flow measurement on a turbo charged engine...

I don't know if I'm missing something, but the RTD's (TC's too) I've seen have a response time on the order of seconds. Boost, and therefore intake air temp changes a lot faster than that. It seems like the engine will be ...

Matt-

Yeah, it feels good to be driving it again...big difference going from an '86 toyota 4x4 back to the legacy.

Btw, did you ever find out what happened to your #4 cylinder? I found a bunch of pieces of piston ring and aluminum shavings in the ej22 oil pan, so I guess that explains the complete ...

The engine is running well.

As for ignition, I ended up using the legacy coil pack and a universal wire set.

When I first got it running, it "idled" at 3000rpm. The IAC valve was stuck. I freed it up, and the problem persisted. Turned out that the throttle return stop had been mangled at some ...

haha I guess it's kind of overkill. Actually, it was faster for me to use solidworks than it would have been to draw it some other way.

Igniters must be a hot commodity. Every legacy I saw at the jy had it stripped off already.

I ended up stretching on my old plug wires and coil, and the car ...

Thanks for the pinout.

Interesting, right after I posted, I started thinking about trying to use two igniters too. Is this the type of arrangment you were thinking?

http://img181.exs.cx/img181/6388/igniter3ag.jpg

I'm going to see if I can get a couple of igniters at the junkyard tomorrow ...

It does not work. There is a spark, but it is too weak.

I guess if the current out of the igniter is limited, this would make sense, as current through each loop would be 1/2 of the limit.

Well, using the stock igniter to fire two coils simultaneously does not work. There is a spark, but it is too weak to even start the engine.

I disconnected two of the coils, and the car started on two cylinders.

Does anyone know of any factory spark plug wire sets that fit this engine with the ...

I like the heat sink idea. I'll mount it to an aluminum plate. Maybe a peltier cooler could even be set up...haha, like I'll ever get that done.

If this works, it will be nice. The seemingly simplest things like mountiing the coil pack and getting the right plug wires can turn into a big hassle ...

Instead of using the ej22 coil pack and plug wires, I am thinking about retaining the four ej20 coils and having cylinders 1/3 and 2/4 fire simultaneously (just like the ej22 system). This would require two coils to fire at the same time. Will the igniter be able to handle this? Any other reasons ...