legacycentral bbs

After a drawn-out, heartbreaking saga with my 96 legacy that some of you might know about, I recently bought a 96 Impreza Outback n/a ago to take its place. I know this means I technically shouldn't post here anymore, but I'm hoping someone will take pity on me, and look past the body style and stra...

Hi, so I'm going to try an EJ22 swap again, and hopefully get this car running finally.. will a newer (OBD II) EJ22 fit in place of my OBD I EJ22 if it comes with the new ECU? The original is a 93 Legacy, the replacement engine might be one that a guy is selling on the board off a 98 Legacy.. Thanks!

can you warranty the engine for a couple months? I might take it for $450 shipped.. sorry I can't offer more, but I'm hurting from all the money I blew on my dead-engine swap-in fiasco..

from what I understand, the engines are identical except for different stroke. The sprocket is from Matt as well, and he's done this swap before. I'm totally stumped. crap.

No logical reason, just that after trying everything else, seems like a good last option. With the ECU unplugged, the engine cranks much smoother and rhythmically than with it in, presumably because of some sort of timing adjustments the ECU is doing, or who knows. Also, I realized I'd routed the ca...

I need one for a N/A legacy, though if its testing fine, shouldn't it be working fine??

Hi Everyone, I used the FSM's instructions to check the voltage and impedance on the ECU and IAC, nothing seemed that wrong, except that the 7v lines on the ECU rang in at 12v.. any ideas, or any ECUs/IACs for sale

So, I've checked the IAC, the cam sensor, and the ECU, and everything read the right voltage/impedance-- but two lines on the ECU which should have been 7v were 12v.. any ideas? seems like it should be working. Anyone have a spare IAC or ECU I could buy?

also, during the swap, the manifold basically came off as one chunk with injectors, rails, sensors and the works still attached, so none of that has been changed in the least. Is there any way to manually test the IAC or the cam sensor with a multimeter?

I've never messed with the idle screw, but i'll check the iac and cam sensor when I get back to work..

I'll get on checking those hoses.. here's something else I noticed- the cam sensor's wire is pretty hard to wiggle.. looks like maybe I smooshed it under the mount for the AC compressor. That would cause all kinds of awful timing problems, right? but it would also throw a code... thanks for the hint...

All the same sensors, no codes, no CEL lately, though before I redid the timing on tuesday I thought it was throwing a light.. ECu has been reset a bunch of times. I havn't manually checked the voltages across the different sensors, but it would throw a code at me if they were failing, right? it see...

absolutely, there arn't words for how i love this wagon, squeaky and loud though it is. It gets AROUND! I was just hoping that having a 2.5 with a high CR under the hood would turn it into even more of a mean little asskicker, but unless I can get it idling, I guess I'll have to part it out or rent ...

Well, I hesitate to answer this because of the reactions it might get, and the way I imagine it could inspire a lot of people to call this a bad idea and lost cause.. but I stand by Matt in thinking that this really should work... what came out was the stock EJ22 n/a from a 93 5mt legacy AWD wagon (...

I'm hoping this is going to be some little thing I missed.. after swapping in a longblock that Matt Monson sent me for my knocking '93, I can't get the new guy to idle reliably. It cranks and cranks, but won't take, and if it does, it runs super super rich, and flails wildly between almost stalling ...

I noticed that when the triangle is on line with the timing mark on the crank sensor, then if you put the crank pulley on, it lines up its timing mark with 0/TDC, which makes perfect sense for the not crashing valves thing.. i think all three arrows (on the crank and cam pulleys) are just absolute d...

sorry, thought about it some more, and realized that I'm an idiot.. the marks on the cogs lign up with the marks on the block every other rotation, and that seems right to me. The irregular feel is still bothersome, but go figure.

Hi everyone, so I just redid the timing and everything went perfectly, counted teeth between the marks, then used the marks on the alignment marks on the cogs, aligned everything with the marks on the block and covers.. buuut.. if I take a breaker bar and put the crank through a full rotation such t...

I'm going to go with the mark on the back of the crank cog.. so then what is all this stuff about putting the #1 piston in the TDC position that chilton's talks about?

I'm trying to figure out if my troubles are caused by poor timing, when i took off the covers, all three belt marks lined up six teeth off from the timing marks.. so I'm redoing the belt, have the cams lined up with the little cut in the belt cover, but on the crank, do I line up the little triangle...

Hi Everyone- I've been moving out of my old house, and didn't have internet until I came up to my visit my parents.. and you're right.. washington really is the suby capital. Port Townsend must have at least a dozen of each model of turn-of-the-90s soob. I'm waiting on a new engine from Matt Monson ...

and it really ends the creaky-squeakyness?

you mean you'll give me one for *free*? AWW, that's so sweet of you!

awesome! great idea!

Oh yeah? hmm, well maybe I should cook up some sort of truss system thing which stiffens like a bar, but doesn't prevent me from sleeping in the back of the wagon (which is my impending housing situation, until I find a nice place somewhere)