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I did the same thing - got some pics if you want to see them - assuming I can find them ;-) I think the parts were around $100 - I got the gaskets from the Subaru dealership. It really isn't that bad if you take your time - you don't even have to pull the engine if you don't want to. Also I would re...

When my head gasket went I checked with the dealer and I think they wanted around $900 to fix em.

I'm with ciper. Same exact thing happened to me. Another clue - smell the overflowing radiator fluid/bottle. Does it smell like exhaust gas?

The funny thing is that switching to Neutral doesn't always work, so either the switch is (getting) bad, or it's the starter/solenoid.

No I think that would be more work/effort. I can see the pan and axle - like the illustration, I just can't quite get far enough under it to get to the middle

Thanks for the illustration. I tried to squeeze under the car, but I couldn't get very far underneath. I'll jack it up this weekend and have a look. Thanks again!

Hi. I have a 90 Legacy LS and I’m having problems with the blower blowing out of the correct vents. About half the time when I turn on the A/C or vents the mechanism under the dash does not switch the air to come out of the vents – the air comes out by my feet. If I push up on the plastic arm I can ...

Hi. I have a 90 Legacy LS FWD with an automatic transmission. I’ve been having very intermittent problems starting the car over the last 6 months– turn the key and nothing happens. If I shift between Park and Neutral I can usually get it to start right up, so I’m making an assumption the Neutral Saf...

I don’t know if you have the same Sensor as I have (90 non-turbo Legacy), but if you do it’s part number: 22690AA090. I just checked at subaruparts.com and it’s $91.40 US plus shipping. It looks like it’s not in stock, which means it will take up to two weeks to get it (if the part is in Oregon it o...

Save the link and try them then next time you need a part - I'm sure you'll need another part ;-) They've been really helpful to me and if you know the part number you can check it online (price and availability), and it you don't know the number then you can call and just get a bunch of part number...

If you ever have the time to wait for a part you may want to try out www.subaruparts.com. It's $32.80 US plus $15 shipping to Canada.

I just replaced my knock sensor. The new sensor is White, so you have the new one. Here’s the TSB that someone gave me that gives more info on it (also, did you reset your computer after you installed the new sensor? Maybe it still partially remembers the readings from your old bad sensor): http://m...

I just replaced my knock sensor. The new sensor is White, so you have the new one. Here’s the TSB that someone gave me that gives more info on it (also, did you reset your computer after you installed the new sensor? Maybe it still partially remembers the readings from your old bad sensor): http://m...

I finally finished the job late last week. I was concerned that I didn’t fix the problem because at first I was still getting bubbles in my overflow container, but after asking some questions and driving it around I found out there was a lot of air in the system that needed to be purged.

I found out that you shouldn't use a sealer with stock (or any other?) head gasket. Also, it's a lot easier to install it without a sealer on it. A sealer works OK with the exhaust manifold gasket, and with the sotck intake manifold it wasn't needed (and again would have been harder to install).

It seems like tighter (14 ft-lbs) is the consensus. If fact the Subaru mechanic said they torque everything up then tighten all of the bolts another 5 ft-lbs. I'm still not sure I'm going to do the last step...

The Subaru Factory Service Manual says to do a “final” torque of 14 fl-lbs, the Haynes Manual says 9.5 ft-lbs, and a web page I found says 11 ft-lbs before turning 180 degrees. Anyone have a good guess what the right number is?

The shop manual says the head bolts should be oiled before they are installed. I was thinking of using some anti-seize lubricant (the same stuff you put on spark plugs) instead of oil. Any thoughts?

Someone suggested that while I have the heads out it would be a good idea to replace the oil seals at the end of the rods. I decided that seal on the left side would be pretty easy to replace (don’t have to pull the rod), so I replaced it I set the seal to be flush with the edge of the cup – there i...

So I got the heads off without having to pull the engine. I didn’t even have to raise the engine off the motor mounts. I had 6 different length 14mm sockets so I could get the bolts off though. I’m getting ready to put them back in, and I talk to a Subaru mechanic about it he asked if I was going to...

I’m trying to disconnect my exhaust pipes from my EJ-22 Engine. I removed the three bolts that bolt the pipe to the engine, but the pipe doesn’t seem to want to move. Do I have to go downstream and remove more pipes in order to remove it? Thanks.

I don’t have an engine hoist, so if I have to pull the engine I would have to rent one. I didn’t want to add any additional cost to the job if I didn’t have to.

Someone just told me that I have to pull the engine to replace the head gaskets. My shop manuals don’t say anything about pulling the engine. Do you really have to pull the engine, or is it just easier to work on it if it pulled?

Any opinions if you should/shouldn’t use a sealer on head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and exhaust gaskets?

I have heard that some gaskets indicate that a sealer should not be used. If the gasket doesn’t state anything should you put a sealer on it? Any suggested sealers?

Thanks.

OK. I just wanted to make sure there were specific setting and a tightening sequence like there is for the head bolts. It’s funny that you torque down the head bolts then turn them in another 1/2 turn.

Let me know if you can find the intake manifold removal/installation section. Thanks.