legacycentral bbs

It's all the same, malt vinegar is just darker in color. It's the acid in the vinegar that does the cleaning. If you want it to clean quicker, use pickling vinegar as it has a higher acid concentration. It's costs considerably more, though.

kimokalihi wrote:There's another post here about a month ago or so I think about using malt vinegar to remove rust completely but I think they only soaked it for an hour or so. Let me find it.

Yea, I posted it.

Try now.

I decided to try the vinegar trick on my brake drum and brake parts when I was replacing my wheel bearing a couple of weeks ago. Here's the result. The dirty photo is after it had been soaking in vinegar overnight, right before cleaning it with a rag and a light wire brushing. The clean photo is the...

There are two types of Subaru Automatic Transmission. The ACT4 type, commonly fitted to lower-spec and USDM vehicles. 90F: 10R default torque split. The fuse puts the transmission into Front Wheel Drive Mode. The VTD type, commonly fitted to higher-spec and JDM vehicles. 35F:65R default torque spli...

JDM vehicle.....guess what language the manual would be in if I did have it.

I mentioned further up that I had expected to see a FWD light come on when I inserted the fuse which is why the DIFF LOCK light shocked me.

Have you tried putting it on jack stands and just driving it and listening for sounds? I'll keep that suggestion in mind, I may be able to do that tomorrow. I just don't feel comfortable having the wheels spinning at highway speeds when all four wheels are off the ground. "Sh!t happens." :D

I put the car up on jackstands yesterday and tested to see what the fuse under the hood would do. As it turns out....absolutely nothing when on jackstands. All 4 wheels turned with the fuse in AND with the fuse out. I had a friend try to stop each wheel from rotating when I applied a light throttle....

You could remove the rear section of the driveshaft leaving the carrier bearing in place. This would be the right way to do the test, since there will always be a little drag on the transfer clutch. Are you absolutely sure it's not a wheel bearing? I've considered the wheel bearing quite a few time...

Thank you! I knew there was something I was missing with my troubleshooting, it was so obvious. I told my brother that what you described is another way to test it, but it was just easier at that time to have him drive a little.

I have 2 jacks and 4 jack stands, I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Well, I put the fuse in again and had my brother drive the car slowly back and forth while I watched the drive shaft. Normally this would put the vehicle in FWD mode and the drive shaft shouldn't turn. This is usually for towing purposes. Sure enough, the drive shaft rotated. Apparently the fuse on ...

I'm not sure about the type of vinegar, but I plan on finding out.

I just can't believe how clean that drive shaft came out, it looked like new!

Any rust on a turbo is simply surface rust. You already know that the turbo is fairly easy to remove, so cleaning it before selling would be a snap.

http://www.cookhaus.co.uk/vinegar/index.htm

Sorry I couldn't reply before you sent it out for coating.

I did drive the car a short time with the "diff lock" light on, but there seemed to be no difference to the sound. I would actually like to try it on the highway to see if it gets rid of the RPMs spiking when the secondary turbo comes on. Transmission fluid was recently replaced as well an...

Legacy777 wrote:Hmmm....that's odd.

Can you give any more detail on the car? Is the trans the original auto trans that came with the car? Everything else original mechanically besides the motor?

Everything else is original on the drivetrain. See the post above your previous post.

Tried the fuse thing as I originally had a 1990 Legacy Wagon EJ22 N/A and knew about it. Unfortunately, this JDM unit LOCKS the diffs with the fuse in. Surprised the heck out of me when I got into the car and there was a "DIFF LOCK" in bright red showing up on the instrument panel. This ma...

No noise when the vehicle is stopped, it gets noisier as I pick up speed. At first I thought it may be a wheel bearing, but the hot diff seems to indicate otherwise. It did sound like the rear end originally was the culprit, but noise travels through the drive shaft.

Automatic transmission.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1069630/2131374 EJ20H Hybrid with EJ257 small block ViPEC V44 Engine Management Whiteline Sway Bar in the rear (front will follow once we find the correct one) 3" exhaust from Y pipe back Completely decatted Momo Nero Steering Wheel JVC KD-AVX33 Faceplate/S...

I've posted this in uklegacy.com, but I'm hoping to get a little more information from this side of the big pond. My vehicle is a 1994 JDM BG5 GT Auto with a 2.35L Hybrid. First post: It now looks like I will be needing to replace/repair my rear differential as it is howling like a beast. I replaced...

I'm looking for a replacement turbo inlet crossover pipe for my vehicle, I believe 1993-1996 are all the same. It is made of hard plastic, connects to both turbos and sits directly on top of the intake just in front of the TMIC. You have to really look for it through a mess of wires. The ends that a...

Blackbart wrote:I have a low mileage 4.44 JDM 4EAT in PA, will not ship (unless you make the arrangements for a truck to come for it.)

PM sent.

So, how did it go? C'mon man, don't keep us waiting!!

jdmellor28 wrote:i have a friend that wrapped his turbo on his 600hp mazda RX7
and the turbo wrap caught fire !
hahah so be careful what you use !

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Check this stuff out: http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/header_wrap.php

Overkill?

douglas vincent wrote:My vote?

Minimum 550 injectors
FMIC
Bigger turbo
Perfectpower6 piggyback.

What's one of those piggyback units worth?

BRB club?

I'm pulling the engine this weekend and still haven't decided exactly what to do. I am leaning towards replacing the SB with a 2.5L SB.

Is it possible to tune with the stock ECU after the swap or will I need an aftermarket ECU for it?