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ace hardware

Do you have the ability to weld aluminum?

Even if so I would still tap the feed then plug itwhile the block is out. You never know if your gonna need that for something down the road.

Just plug it. The plug size is M16 x 1.50

You need to look for a 91-92. Its due to our cars coming with airbags so im told from grant co. Something about them not legaly being able to have an aplication for our cars. So since pre facelift had no airbags then just get that.

lol um don't. Most wire from autos are a mid grade anyway. find a local stereo shop that will sell you colored wire off thier spools.

ROFL


um FXDWG.....try....oh I don't know.....the lock out switch

Question: I'm running a pp6 and have a Lc1. I see how the lc1 wires into the pp6 but I don't know what happens to the o2 sensor? I've researched on the board and have seen a lot of people saying the lc1 is not good to use as a narrowband. is this still true when running it through the pp6 first? Or ...

Update


Got the wideband and the PP6 in. havent had time to tune or log afr readings yet but I have noticed this.

once the ecu resets its nice and smooth....but after awhile it progressivly gets worse untill I reset.

Just wondering how many 1st gens are roming denver area.

I'm in lakewood and do school at red rocks.

anyone have a pp6 map for: 94

ej22t block w/25d heads
td04
440 cc injectors
with our without a jecs maf

In lakewood as well

If that hub assembly is the same as a first gen (which it should be) it's pressable. Ive done it many times and even purchased a press for the two scoobys i have

SILINC3R wrote:so kind of relates to wipers. anyone ever thought about putting in the rear wiper and motor. i am guessing it cant be that hard

my car has a rear wiper


oh you have a sedan. yeah so o do that i would just go buy a wagon shell and swap your motor and mods and POOF ...rear wiper!!!

kudos. nice to see a fresh mod. i got all next week to work on the waggy....this is added to the list.

there is a common issue with the wiring on those knock sensors. the vinyl covering on the wiring pulls back or cracks exposing the shielding to touch ground or touch the inner wire.

it's gotta be piping.

having the same exact problem. I was going to research it this next week during break....i'll chime in here once i get into it. I think its one of two things. wiring going into the switch or switch itself...I think its wiring cause mine went out right after i pulled some old wiring out of that area.

you need to detach the cables from the heater assembly

I've had my yellow top for almost 10 years now. and the one before that was a yellow top as well. They are good batterys. the ones I have heard of " going bad" ...including the one i had before my current. the owners didnt know how to recharge correctly....they require a certain type of ch...

I suggest doing your homework on this site before going any further.

Subiel94 wrote:Idk if I'm just tired and can't think but 4 cam would mean dohc. The first and second gens didnt come with a dohc did it?

I would HIGHLY recomend doing a hybrid 22t/25d or another turbo dohc swap before purchasing these stickers....or maybe you would like to get made fun of!!

VERY good quality.

Wow. well i did a full ecu reset again (first time since the dohc swap) and let it run a full 15 min without any gas. and holy crap!!! smooth as silk this morning and POWA!!. I'll keep ya posted cause the studder has always been speratic (sp).

I've got two.

one came straight out of my wagon 200K on it with very little play.
the second one was given to me with even less play than the other.

shoot me a price.

Another thought is maybe its a ignited issue