Big Help needed with brakes!

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:27 pm

The brake line banjo bolt is whatever size wrench fits it, I think 13 or 14 mm, just try different wrenches until you hit the one that fits. You shouldn't need to take it off unless you plan to work on the caliper away from the car or rebuild it. Yours needs rebuilding since the boot is torn. If you do that, rig up a way to gently clamp the brake line so the fluid doesn't all leak out. Also, be careful pushing any pistons back in with other calipers loose or overflowing the reservoir. And don't go anywhere near the brake pedal while you have stuff apart. Good luck. I am too far from you or I would be willing to help, but without getting your calipers rebuilt it's kind of pointless.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:34 pm

I was going to buy one at AutoZone but the part is not in stock and I need it, they say they can have it in tomrrow.

I don't know anyone down in this area, most Subie owners live upstate CT.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:56 am

Ok here is the Deal I got a new Caliper for $126.11 I have to pick it up tomorrow since it was not in stock.

Now These Banjo bolts... When I take it off Can I expect a Mini Old Fathful or what? If I put it in a upright postion will it still leak fluid?

I checked the level this morning it drained all of my fluid from the Pad Passenger side (being replaced tomorrow)

So... Now when I have the new one in hand, what is the order I should do things?

i want to be careful The car is a 95 so I want to be nice to the brake lines. And yes 14mm is the Correct sizes for the bolts.

I guess I will go to sears and pick up that 159 pcs. tool Kit, I'm sure I will be thanking myself forever on that.

it's been a long ride but Calipers can go out on their own anyways right? i guess I was just speeding things up.

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:22 am

You may have a core charge (they will want the old one). I would probably rebuild the other side since it's just as old & crappy as this one. Make sure you understand the slide pins & where the caliper needs to be before you go putting things too far together. I'm guessing the new caliper will come with new washers for the banjo bolt. Use them, after you get everything mechanically together first (i.e.- hook up line last after you have everything else comfortably together). You will need to bleed a lot. Don't let reservoir run out. Don't forget high temp grease on silver clips where pads will move inward toward rotor. The new pads usually come with a little packet of it. Copper color for the Subaru pads, I believe. Make sure the pins get some & are sliding smoothly too. They won't move super easily, but hand pressure should be enough to slide the caliper in on the pins and compress those little rubber boots. Make sure the boots are seated on each end, they have a little lip inside the hole that helps them stay put.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:51 am

One tiny tiny issue, the caliper I'm taking back for the core charge.. Well it has my New brake pad stuck in it, and thats the one I can't get to slide out.. I've used the C-clamp on the Caliper Bracket and the Caliper Body, it does not move period.

All I need it to move in a few Millmeters and I could drop it out.

But I guess I will just take the brake line off in the morning and try working on it away from thr car. The Brake line has a TON of air in the lines right now.

As How I understand it now..

I get new Caliper in hand and this is the steps as far as I know...

Mount new Rotor to wheel Hub

Mount New Caliper on the Kuckle

Unbolt the Caliper Slide Pin (Lower one)

Lift up the Caliper Bracket

place the Inner and Outter Brake pads on the Caliper bracket

Lower the Caliper back down and replace the bolt for the Caliper

Hook the banjo bolt up

fill brake fluid

bleed brakes

check brakes on and side road or off street away from the highway.

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:13 pm

after you put on the rotor put on the caliper bracket. Then place pads (with shims & clips) down in bracket & wiggle caliper into place. The caliper bracket stays put, for a pad only job you would never touch it. Just pivot the caliper up on the top bolt with bottom bolt out. be careful not to confuse bottom caliper bolt with brakeline bolt. Make sure piston is all the way back in 1st & that caliper is pulled toward you (away from centerline of car) on slide pins so that it will have enough room to clear new pads on both sides of rotor. You shouldn't be able to see the pins & the 2 little rubber accordion boots will be scrunched down. Sounds like you have it down right otherwise. If you have a vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder, it will help. If not, get a friend to help. Good luck.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:40 pm

I'm not going to touch the drivers side until I put some lube on the slider pins, it's just as hard to move as the passenger side.

but for the most part I understand it now.

I still have the rear drums to do, those should be here vis ups on Feb 3rd.

I have to put some lube on those Metal brackets that the pads slip onto.

professor · Post by **professor** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:49 pm

your brakes show a lack of maintenance which is why the slider pins are trashed. Also the popped piston probably resuted from the pads wearing all the way through the lining and maybe even the backing plate falling out (as can happen particularly on Hondas with worn-out pads). This lets the piston out too far and the seal tears off.

I would not even consider reassembling without replacing the other caliper as well. Brakes like to be worked on in pairs, particularly when things look that bad.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:22 pm

Well new parts are in!

I had to beat it on the ground to get my pad out.

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 12:17 am

So, how are you posting pics?

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:10 am

I'm using a hosting service and using the [img] tags

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:50 am

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1196
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=17062

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:32 am

Ok everything is in and I did the bleeding of the system... I have a very mushy feel in the brakes, but I have a feeling it's due to the worn out rear bake shoes, and as soon as Ups brings the rear drums (Feb 3rd) I can start on the rears.

So anyways I took it on the road and did a few stops from 30 Mph did ok, But I get the hit brakes smell, not sure if thats normal or not... So I get home and I take the driver side wheel off and I look at the pad I'm not sure if their is a way to read a new rotor but I have a little bronzing near the hub and the rest looks good, I can still see the Cross hatches so maybe it's not fully seated yet.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:35 am

old pads

jamal · Post by **jamal** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:12 am

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

explains how and why brakes are bed in. That burning brake smell means you're getting there.

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:31 am

jamal wrote:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

explains how and why brakes are bed in. That burning brake smell means you're getting there.

Nice read, I'm almost there

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:50 pm

make sure your caliper isn't stuck and that's causing the burning smell when the pad doesn't release from the rotor. Does it pull to one side? or smoke from 1 side?

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:08 am

tonflo wrote:make sure your caliper isn't stuck and that's causing the burning smell when the pad doesn't release from the rotor. Does it pull to one side? or smoke from 1 side?

Brakes don't pull to one side.. But here is something odd.. I drove around yesterday eevrything was fine, but today I leave for work and the Brake light came on...

I pull over and I look at the fluid level it's at MAX.

My Petal is still Mushy and I think it's Because of the Rears, they need to be done. Now I wished I did overnight for the drum brakes.

I have the shoes sitting right here next to me.

I can't Lock up the Fronts at all Dry or wet pavement.

pitstain · Post by **pitstain** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:45 pm

you need to do more bleeding.....and then bleed them again.....and then again

1-3-2-4 · Post by **1-3-2-4** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:53 pm

I'm going to buy that thing that Forces the new Fluid into the lines so I don't hae to pump, now that the weather is getting warm enough.

pitstain · Post by **pitstain** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:03 pm

this is what i have used on my lightning and will be using on my legacy

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

works great only need one person

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:49 pm

I don't think you should use those cheapo "power bleeders." They use air to pressurize the brake fluid, which means they'll force moisture into your system.

Real professional power bleeders don't use air to pressurize the fluid.

Vacuum, not pressure, is the way to go, in my opinion.

pitstain · Post by **pitstain** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:56 pm

this unit pushes fluid in to the resevoir not air.........

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:12 pm

Really? So when you actuate the plunger using the handle, no air is compressed? My mistake. That device be a lot fancier on the inside than on the outside.

To me it looked like a branded version of the homebrew power bleeders people make with garden sprayers.

pitstain · Post by **pitstain** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:22 pm

it is similar but built properly as to not blow air into the brake system....UNLESS YOU LET IT GO EMPTY.....it is a pressurized tank but the only thing that will come out of it is pure fluid after the first pump of two

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Big Help needed with brakes!