Am I an idiot or what????

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:12 am

Okay, I may be a semi-neb, but I just spent over 45 minutes with my head under the dash looking for the black and green connectors, and while there are lots of black ones I didn't see a single green connector under there.

I did see a black wire with a yellowish stripe that went thru a single connector. Disconnected it, and it didn't do anything obvious. I also disconnected the battery for around 15-20 minutes, and held the brake pedal down for 30 seconds, then pumped it 30 times, cycled the key a few times for good measure, then hooked the battery back up. the time on the clock reset, but I couldn't tell any difference in the way it ran afterwards....

Does anyone have a picture of these connectors so I can reset my computer. I don't have a CEL, but the idle is still around 1500 rpm.

Also, does anyone have the part # for the temp sender? Schucks (Skragen) only lists one temp sender, but don't specify gauge or computer. They do have one for the fan control though.

TheSubaruJunkie · Post by **TheSubaruJunkie** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:52 am

If you wanna reset your ECU, remove the negative terminal from your battery and leave it off overnight.

Murphy · Post by **Murphy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:07 am

doesnt it take about 30 minutes to reset it? thats what ive always done, but ive never had anyway of telling if it works though

does it idle 1500 all the time? even after youve driven around and warmed it up?
i need to get some new dash lights, my CEL and several others dont work

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:37 am

There are very likely HIGH odds that the damn green one is taped up into a roll of wiring. I had that happent to me!

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:33 pm

Yeah, the green one can be a bitch to find.

The way you tell if the ecu reset is to see if your stored CEL codes (the small black connector test) went away or not.

The green connector is for a D-check. That's an active test to see current codes.

Josh (Legacy777) has a good right up on his site for these checks.

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 3:03 pm

Murphy wrote:doesnt it take about 30 minutes to reset it? thats what ive always done, but ive never had anyway of telling if it works though

does it idle 1500 all the time? even after youve driven around and warmed it up?

Okay, I'll disconnect the negative today at work and see what it does.

Idle starts out okay when cold, but climbs as it warms up. After I get to work (about 15 miles) it's idling at 1500 with everything turned off.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:04 pm

The part number you want is here:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/partnumbers.html

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:18 pm

Thanks for the part number link, that's cool

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:50 pm

instructions
www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

picture of the connectors
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... cuhide.jpg

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Thu Jan 03, 2008 12:43 am

I just touch the ground connector to the posotive one after i have disconnected it from the battery. The whole time thing is to discharge the capactors which may hold some juice. Touching the two terminals together discharges the caps instantly.

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Thu Jan 03, 2008 6:05 am

Legacy777,
thanks for the links to the info, extremely helpful...

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:38 am

Okay, I changed the temp sensor and did the reset as shown in the link, and it's still the same. Hot idle is 1300-1500 rpm and sounds like it's lean, almost like a vacumn leak, but I can't find any bad hoses. Maybe a brake booster leaking? Brakes still feel good, but maybe it got damaged when the wife stabbed the brakes when she wrecked it?

Any other ideas? Do the tach's ever go bad? How would you hook up a different tach to check it?

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 7:22 pm

Are there any codes stored, or show during the d-check mode?

Is this on the 90 legacy in your sig?

When did you first experience the high idle? Did something happen/change? Did you do anything with the throttle body?

Please provide any more details you can.

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:38 am

Yes it's the '90 in the sig. Wife wrecked it back in July, I finally got it fixed and back on the road in September. Idle was fine for a while then started climbing slowly until it hit the 1300-1500 range, and seems to have stabilized there.

I haven't been able to find the green and black connectors yet, between work, weather, and other cars breaking I haven't had time to screw with it.

Throttle body hasn't been messed with by me, but the lower idle set screw is chewed up, so who knows. It ran fine for several years with a good idle, 800-900 in neutral, 650-750 in gear. Still runs strong, but only got 26 mpg hiway last trip, normally 28-29.

O2 sensor??

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:19 am

Nah.....O2 sensor shouldn't do that. You may want to check the TPS

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting2.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting3.jpg

If everything's good with 1 & 2, check/set the TPS according to scan 3

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:58 am

okay, thanks, need to borrow the neighbors digital VM for that. Hoping to spend a little tiome on it tomorrow, after I fix some wiring on my truckl soI have something to drive. I gave the Subie back to the wife (hopefully I don't have to find more fenders anytime soon....)

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:15 am

Okay, more info:
Idle is still 1300-1500 rpm hot in neutral, sounds like it has a vacumn leak, but I've checked all the vacumn lines and they are good. If I disconnect the IAC the idle drops to around 800 rpm, but the front 2 cylinders quit firing. In this configuration if I bring the throttle up slightly the front 2 start firing again, and stop when I release it. It won't start cold without bumping the throttle up a little for the first couple of seconds.

So far I've:
swapped plugs front to back, replaced temp sensor, replaced PCV valve, inspected vacumn lines, reset the ECU twice, looked for the green and black connectors (still can't find them...), so I haven't pulled any codes, but I DON'T have a CEL. My neighbor has been gone all weekend (need to borrow his DVM), so I haven't been able to check the TPS either.

With this info can anyone point me in a direction? I know I need to check the TPS, and find the black/green connectors and see if anything is stored, but until I can get that done I'm at a loss.

beatersubi · Post by **beatersubi** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 6:01 am

I can help you find the connectors, if you wanna swing by some day. I also have a multimeter, but its not digital.

You could also try the guys at pacific import. They're very helpful, they don't overcharge, and they're close.

tonflo · Post by **tonflo** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:46 pm

My green connectors were up high on the left where they were supposed to be. But the black ones were above & slightly to the left of the gas pedal, so you might want to check there.

tahiti350 · Post by **tahiti350** » Mon Jan 14, 2008 3:17 pm

Thanks Tonflo, I'll look again, if I still can't find them I'll get in touch with Beatersubi.

Beater, I may take you up on the offer, and thanks for the recommend on Pacific Imports I may just give them a call at this point.

Anyone think I could just be the O2 sensor? I changed it with used one when I got the car (wires were cut off the one in it). maybe it's failed and sending a dead rich signal so the computer is turning down fuel and cranking the IAC full open?

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Am I an idiot or what????

Am I an idiot or what????