Mike's (s)old 92 SS

[mike-tracy]

So my 91 SS build has kind of stagnated over time. I blew up the engine and replaced it with a stock EJ20G running SS pinks and stock ecu. Once I get a few issues sorted it will be for sale.





This is my 3rd SS, it is my 1st Post facelift (eww! lol). I got the shell dirt cheap, and it is in way better shape than the 91. I also bought a 91 engine that was COVERED in grease. I still have the preface glass headlights that I never ended up installing, so I'll do a front end swap hopefully with help. Here are my plans:

I plan to run this more or less stock (with the huge exception of the tranny setup! (EDIT: back to stock SS tranny - I love the tall gearing, especially in 5th!) Also, will run a td04 and slanty intercooler for the first iteration (edit again: td05 and 06/07 wrx tmic and revtronix or robtune ecu with 550's) until I complete the ej207 swap in my RS. This needs to be a reliable DD, so nothing crazy going on for now.

92 Shell - $400
Bone stock EJ22T - $600 *spun bearing after 60 miles, no thanks to seller 03Bug aka Lucci*
Dirty ass ej22t - $220 * spun bearing after 1000 miles. Junkyard engine ftl!
Dirty ass ej22t from the junkyard again - re-ringed and fresh bearings - $400 total
ej22t felpro upper gasket set - $220
Reseal kit for tranny - $80
1991 SS Tranny and diff - $250
6mt clutch setup - $100 (including resurface flywheel), used "gently"
I have modded this tranny to clear the 6mt flywheel
92 SS engine wiring harness - $50
05 WRX front brakes incl good rotors - $75
04 Outback H6 rears - Free!
Phase I SOHC timing belt kit - $180
Akebono front pads, cheapo rears - $100
Misc PCV bulk hoses - $30
PCV Valve - $4
Coolant Temp Sensor - $45
Knock Sensor - $45
Moog Balljoints & tie rod ends - $150
NGK Copper plugs and wires - $50
STI Struts - $200
Ver 1-2 WRX front seats - $350
Rear 98 RS seats - $50
Group N engine & tranny mounts - $100
td05 - $200
GFB EBCS - $250
USA made Thermal Zero turbo blanket $50


Roughly $(too much) spent so far.



Before


After

All the grime that's left is carbon and stained aluminum. Not coming off easily. I soaked the engine overnight with degreaser, and I'm reasonably happy with the result.

[robertpaige]

Pre Facelift with a Post Facelift rear end... <3___<3

I hope that happens.

[Legacy777]

That was one greasy motor!

[CFK]

Pre Facelift with a Post Facelift rear end... <3___<3

I hope that happens.

MANDATORY

[ride_child]

cj has a post face lift with a pre face lift swapped front end! its rad! you should probably do it too mike haha

[robertpaige]

CJ's had that done for awhile now.


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[cj91legss]

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[mike-tracy]

And florin did it years ago ;b

[mike-tracy]

The reason the block was so nasty was due to a cracked plastic pcv pipe - the one that connects the forward vent on the block to the valvecovers, immediately left of the fuel lines in the pic. I am currently looking for this piece.

[mike-tracy]

Well an update is in order. The engine is 99% complete, but I am getting my 91 SS ready for sale, so not too much being done on the 92.

I was pulling the stock brakes off today, and replacing them with 04 WRX fronts, H6 rears. I had grabbed the complete fronts from a donor 05 Forester which had wrx fronts and drum rears from the factory, lol.

Anyways, I got the dust shields along with the package and wouldn't you know, they fit our cars perfectly!



They are dual drilled for both style hubs (the newer cars have the ABS tone ring on the axle, not through the hubs) and with a minor amount of persuasion they popped into place! I unscrewed the abs tone ring but I don't believe that is necessary.

[mike-tracy]

Couple of pro tips I've relearned since I haven't been working on nitty gritty hardware on subarus in a while. Just engine builds lately

To remove the rear axles with a minimum of pain, remove that damn long bolt! Use a pry bar to pop the axle off the diff, and you can easily pull it out of the hub! I used a picklefork to "persuade" the long bolt to come out.

Old ball joints and tie rod ends will usually pop/break/whatever when you remove the front hubs! A pickle fork is a lifesaver to separate em.

I used my biggest c-clamp to hold the tie rod end stud from moving while I was breaking the nut loose. Otherwise it's an exercise in frustration.

I also filled the gaps in my rear diff bushing with 3M WindoWeld. I'll be doing the trans diff mount once I get a used one.


My 92 SS has the old style rear sway bar linkage. I was hoping for the c-link style. Oh Well.

[SILINC3R]

Awesome, atleast next time you'll be able to look here instead of having to relearn haha

[mike-tracy]

You got it Tony.

I haven't figured out what to do for the suspension yet. The suspension on there is toast. Here is what I have on hand:

low mileage 05 WRX Wagon struts
Bilstein Struts
RS Struts (high mileage but still servicable)

05 WRX springs
Unknown lowering springs off bilstein struts, these ride too low and I hate them
SS springs
Blue Prodrive springs, made by eibach
RS springs

In search of a comfortable ride, I think I'll combine the WRX struts and Prodrive springs. I kind of want to keep the bilsteins for the RS, though in the longer term I want Koni inserts in the SS struts on it.

OTOH, Bilsteins/Prodrive Eibach blue's is what the UKDM GC8 STI P1 came with. I hear that's a sweet combo.

[macipusy]

Do you have a build thread for the RS somewhere. I would love to see what that looks like. ej207....mmmm

[mike-tracy]

Do y9u have a build thread for the RS somewhere. I would love to see what that looks like. ej207....mmmm

I don't, yet. The car remains my daily driver, but I have collected all the parts for the build.

[cj91legss]

Mike, i usually grease that long bolt on the bottom of the hub when its out. Helps out alot if you need to tear into suspension again.

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[macipusy]

I don't, yet. The car remains my daily driver, but I have collected all the parts for the build.

Very cool. That is what I did when I swapped my RSTi...it was torture having all those parts hanging out dormant style. But it is the correct approach, just requires patience.

[mike-tracy]

I did a little research on the Prodrive springs, and turns out they are for 02-03 WRX. Meaning no tapered tops. Based on the fact they are for a car that weighs almost the same as an SS, I decided to put those on my WRX wagon struts and onto the 92SS. I made a quick trip to the junkyard to grab front top hats that weren't siezed up, and noticed that Impreza and Forester spring perches are smaller than Legacy. Luckily there was an 04 WRX wagon there so I grabbed the correct parts off it.




I'll be installing them tonite.

[robertpaige]

WRX in the junkyard huh? Wish we had newer Subaru's in our yards down here.

[mike-tracy]

That yard has mostly 3rd gen legacys. Other than that and an 00 RS 4 door, there is a 98 and 00 Forester to choose from.

[mike-tracy]

Finished the struts last night. I don't like how the rears fit - unloaded it appears the perches will rub the inside wheel well. I'll lower it down eventually and check for fitment then.

Today I went over to my friend's house and we replaced the speedo gear in my Forester XT transmission with a jdm 4.44 STI one. Idea being the new gear is for "normal" height tires (205/50/16), so my speedo won't be off so bad like with the stock gear. New gear and part number:



Tranny split - speedo gear goes on other side, but the empty case looks way less interesting:



We made 1 mistake: when we put the transmission together, the lower shaft wasn't centered on a dowel pin that goes to an indentation on the race (immediately left of the pinion gear). Assembled the trans fully, and the input shaft wouldn't spin freely in gear. Swearing ensued, and we tore the tranny apart in record time. The dowel had been pushed a bit further into its hole, but enough stuck out that it still arrested the race. Hope this doesn't turn into an issue down the line. Put it back together a 2nd time. Success!

One thing I'll mention is that I was very disappointed in the OEM tranny reseal kit. We used the paper gasket, input shaft seal and one o-ring out of it. I still have to get both side axle seals, and output shaft seal from a parts store. Total waste of money for the kit.



When I got home, I checked to see if my rear diff bushing that I 3m Windowelded had cured, and sure enough it had. I highly recommend putting the tube into hot tap water to get it nice and fluid before you start. Otherwise, you have one HELL of a time getting the goop out. First time using the stuff, results weren't pretty. EVERYTHING you touch gets covered in it. But I'll never see this part again (I hope) so it doesn't have to be pretty.



Got the rear diff and axles in before calling it a night.

[mike-tracy]

So I 3M Windowelded the tranny crossmember bushing. This time I ran hot water off the tube for about 5 minutes, and man that stuff flows out real nice! It was tough to get all the gaps, expecially the area under the triangle shaped original bushing. But I think I got it, and it looks way better than my attempt on the diff bushings, lol.



When I was putting in the rear diff, I noticed the 90-92 style rear drop links had been damaged on one side (4x4ing over a rock?), so I decided I will replace them both with the newer c-link style tomorrow.

Only a couple more days till the tranny bushing cures, then I'll be able to install the tranny.

[mike-tracy]

I got this as a shell and haven't actually driven it yet, but have seen few electrical things that do not work.

So far I have noticed:
- the dome light doesn't come on (nor does the door open light on the gauge cluster)
- radio doesn't remember stations when I turn the key to off. Battery is installed, and I have a trickle charger on it.
- HVAC fans do not come on
- sunroof doesn't open
- fuel pump doesn't attempt to prime

So far everything else I've tried works, ie headlights, power windows, power locks, stock radio, antenna. ECU is installed.

[robertpaige]

Simple but have you check all the fuses in the engine bay?


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[mike-tracy]

Simple but have you check all the fuses in the engine bay?
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Lol I have not. I was hoping someone would chime in and say, "Oh that's relay 15."