CFK's 92 SS Daily/Project (Video & Pics added Mar/31)

[CFK]

The Curse Lives On

Drove Great for another few Hundred Kms after the slipped TB was fixed, then no Speedo reading and code 33, VSS.

Removed the inner Speedo Cable and it appeared to be ok. Cleaned and re-greased it. re-installed, checked both end connections. Ok, drove it, still didn't work. Jacked it up on all 4's, disconnected the cable off the cluster. drove with the cable in my hand. Nothing, cable doesn't spin

Seriously, can't even make it 5000 Miles without something terrible going wrong. Driven this car 19 000 Kms and have pulled the motor and tranny numerous times. Had the Tranny re-built 15 000 Kms ago

What are my Options ? Do I have to pull and slit the tranny to replace that plastic gear ?

Seems like a retarded system A Plastic gear inside a box full of Rotating Metal

[mike-tracy]

If it comes to that, yes you do have to split the tranny to replace the gear.

[CFK]

Balls, ya its definitely it. I triple checked by attaching a drill to the cable. Speedometer in the cluster registers. So I'm pretty positive that its the Speedo Drive Gear

P/N : 32714AA190

Can anybody confirm that it is the correct Part Number and all Parts I would need to accomplish this job

Took The dealer guy 20 min to find the P/N and its special order.

I assume I also need the Gasket & Seal kit as well ?

P/N : 32001AA000

I might just send it back to the guys that rebuilt my Tranny 12 000 Kms ago

Any Help is Much Appreciated

[cj91legss]

It sucks that you have to split the case to replace that stupid gear. Someone should machine metal gears.

FWIW I have split several cases and put them back together without replacing any gaskets. All you need is some Grey RTV.

If you're going to split it and have the funds & wanna do it the right way, might as well get the front diff seals, rear output seal, and the input shaft seal.

If I recall correctly, there are 3 paper gaskets as well. But like I said, I just used RTV.

[CFK]

Awesome thanks.

I just had all that done 10-12000 Kms ago

I guess the reason is cabin noise, but I doubt it would be louder than a 3" exhaust

[CFK]

Turns out that it was just the lower cable that was broken,

I thought the lower pigtail was all one piece and it was just the auto's that had the screw in piece

Luckily I didn't pull the tranny to find that out

[cj91legss]

That would have sucked.....

The question is would you have been angry or laughed out loud?

[mike-tracy]

Ha thats great!

[CFK]

I would have done both at the same time

I should have done more research, only found pictures of an auto and PDF of a manual ( terrible picture )

At this point I always assume the absolute worst as most of you would understand by now lol r

[CFK]

Here's a Video of some Vehicular enjoyment

https://youtu.be/PxJUQrStKWA

[Legacy777]

Selfie sticks for the win

[mike-tracy]

Hey nice vid and beard

[GTEASER]

Great Vid!!! Thanks!

[SILINC3R]

Love this car so much!

[NICO]

glad it was a simple fix.... video was sweet

[CFK]

Forgot to post this video my friends at Box One Collective made of my Legacy

https://vimeo.com/205003865

[dankberries]

Ginger beard ! That is a sweet vid, I wanted more though!

[CFK]

HA ! Thanks, me too. Time just didn't permit it. My wife said "That was it, you missed the Gender reveal for that ? "

[CFK]

I believe I’m having an issue with my RobTune ECU. CEL flickering constantly. IAC code. Cleaned and swapped coil. Rob has seemed to drop off the face of the earth.

I really don’t think the IAC is the problem. I got proper voltage there. Has anybody actually had the IAC fail or is it just generally the Coil or ECU ?

Any new options out there. Don’t wanna go back to stock

Any help would be much appreciated. I want the car back on the road ASAP !!!

[Legacy777]

Since it's been a while since you posted do you mind providing an update on any other driveability issues or problems you're having and any more specifics on the symptoms.

[CFK]

Hi Josh, I hope all is well !

It drives quite well besides the flickering light, I have a boost leak somewhere so it runs pretty rich. RPM’s are limited to 5K in this condition. I did have a TPS error code quite a while ago but swapped it out and it went away. But as soon as you reset the codes. The flickering light instantly returns. It had a brand new knock sensor.

Thinking about a Link ECU instead of the ESL since it sounds like that might go the way of RobTune. You have a Link don’t you josh ? Is it a full standalone unit or the V1/V2 plug n play ?

[Legacy777]

I have the full stand alone. I was actually looking at some of the new ECU's and I think you can get a plugin version of their latest ECU version with the same amount of inputs/outputs as I have on my G4 stand alone. That's plenty to handle everything you should want to do and it makes the ECU installation a lot easier. You may have to repin some of the ECU pins, but that would likely be the easiest option.

If money wasn't an option I'd look at upgrading because the newer ECU's have better functionality related to knock and other stuff....and I'm sure are faster.

[CFK]

Awesome thanks Josh,

Sounds like a much easier and reliable option than ESL. If only our $$$ wasn’t crap !

Ah well, just saved almost that on the cost of insurance from having off the road during Covid. So I might just have to bite the bullet

[CFK]

Removed the chip, soldered the connection. Went from flickering CEL to solid, terrible idle. Codes 31 & 42 : TPS.

Found a broken wire on the TPS connector. Repaired. No codes !

Confused how it ran good on RobTune, But flickering CEL, IAC codes, think I had a TPS code prior and I swapped it with a spare one. Then removed the chip and all of a sudden rough idle & TPS codes

Kind of makes me want to re-install the chip and see what happens ! But I’ve also kind of got my heart set on the Link PnP and deleting the MAF, then cleaning up the bay

[Legacy777]

Glad you were able to get it fixed!