1990 legacy auto - green test wire

[jimkelly1964]

my car, recent acquired and runs but has the 16 flash power light. i went o plug the 2 green plugs into each other and discovered that there is only one, the male side assuming the other is a female.

any chance the female side simply needs to go to ground? or the ecu.

per the ecu pin out i am using. i do not see a second wire to green plug from ecu?
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=136053

thanks
jim

PS: my car also have trans bind, but i may just pull engine for a swap into another car. wanted to drive it some first but don't want to put much money into it.

(ECU plug position - wire color - description - destination) (if you have three engine plugs, not two, the pin # is in parenthesis)

A1 - empty
A2 - yellow/red - Ignition on - Don't wire this one yet.
A3 - Empty
A4 - Empty
A5 - Empty
A6 - White - O2 sensor - O2 sensor plug 4
A7 - Black/Yellow - Water temperature - F26 pin 5 (pin 2 if three plugs)
A8 - Red - Air flow meter - Air flow meter plug pin 1
A9 - Black - Air flow meter - Air flow meter plug pin 4
A10 - White - Air flow meter - Air flow meter plug pin 2
A11 - Black red - ground - don't wire this yet
A12 - empty
A13 - yellow/red - Ignition on - Don't wire this one yet
A14 - empty
A15 - Yellow/red - Hot from battery - don't wire this one yet
A16 - Red/Yellow - cut it
A17 - Black - Shield for O2 sensor - connects to shield on grey sensor wire
A18 - empty
A19 - Gray - Air flow meter shield - connects to shield on grey air flow meter wire
A20 - AT/MT selector
A21 - Red/green - Water temperature - Connects to F26 plug pin 6 (pin 3 for three plugs)
A22 - Black/red - ground - don't wire this yet

B1 - white - Throttle position - to F26 pin 2 (pin 7 on three plugs)
B2 - black - Throttle position - to f26 pin 4 (pin 5 on three plugs)
B3 - Red - Throttle position - to F26 pin 3 (pin 4)
B4 - White - Cam position - to cam plug pin 1
B5 - Black - Cam position - to cam plug pin 2
B6 - Grey - Cam shield - to cam plug pin 3
B7 - White - Throttle shield - to throttle position shield
B8 - Blue - Air flow meter - to air flow meter plug pin 5
B9 - Blue/pink - park switch - do not wire this yet
B10 - Light green - Neutral switch - do not wire this yet
B11 - Green/Black - speed sensor - do not wire this yet
B12 - Yellow - ign relay - do not wire this yet

C1 - Black - Crank angle sens - to crank plug pin 1
C2 - White - Crank angle sens - to crank plug pin 2
C3 - Shield - Crank angle sens - through shield to crank plug pin 3
C4 - Shield - knock sens - to shield for knock sensor
C5 - White - knock sens - to knock sensor plug
C6 - Brown - throttle position - to f26 pin 1 (pin 6)
C7 - Light green/red - select monitor - not needed
C8 - Green/white - select monitor - not needed
C9 - Blue/red - A/C compressor - not needed (connect to positive for high idle)
c10 - Red/yellow - connect to starter selenoid (hot when starting only)
c11 - Green/black - california mode switch - goes to f26 pin 7 (pin 12) (grounded for CA mode, determined by engine wiring)
c12 - Red/Black - read memory - to black "read memory" plug
c13 - Orange - test mode - to green "test mode" plug
c14 - empty
c15 - Blue/yellow - select monitor - not needed
c16 - Black/blue - tachometer - to tachometer

d1 - Black - idle air control - to f26 pin 12 (pin 14)
d2 - White - idle air control - to f26 pin 11 (pin 13)
d3 - empty
d4 - empty
d5 - light green - ignition relay - do not wire this yet
d6 - White/blue - CPC senenoid - to f25 pin 2 (pin 7)
d7 - empty
d8 - empty
d9 - Green/white - Ignitor - to ignitor plug pin 2
d10 - Yellow/blue - Ignitor - to ignitor plug pin 1
d11 - Blue/white - injector #3 - to f25 pin 11 (pin 15)
d12 - Light green - injector #2 - to f25 pin 10 (pin 14)
d13 - brown - injector #1 - to f25 pin 9 (pin 13)
d14 - black/white - ground - do not wire this yet
d15 - black - ground - do not wire this yet
d16 - empty
d17 - Red/blue - fan control - do not wire this yet
d18 - white - select monitor - not needed
d19 - red/yellow - check engine light - ground check engine light here
d20 - empty
d21 - empty
d22 - Blue - a/c cutout relay - not needed - turns off a/c compressor if full throttle... hook nitrous selenoid here
d23 - Light green/black - fuel pump relay - do not wire this yet
d24 - Black/yellow - ground - do not wire this yet
d25 - black/yellow - ground - do not wire this yet
d26 - Blue - injector #4 - to f25 pin 12 (pin 16)

[Alphius]

Flashing "Power" light is a TCU code and isn't read by connecting the diagnostic connectors. Check this link for the proper procedure to check TCU codes.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

You can drive it with torque bind no problem. I'm guessing your trans code is likely for the Duty C Solenoid.

[jimkelly1964]

the car was the previous owner's mom's car and they drove it until about 5 months ago and the it sat parked. he said it never had any trans issue but it does bind. i never really drove it but did do some short test drives around the building and discovered the binding. i've seen that test you mentioned before but now i will try to do it. thanks for the advice. i'd love to drive it for a while but that bind when turning is rediculous. thanks again for the link! jim

[jimkelly1964]

well, i think it took me 5 or so tries before i did the sequence correctly. the first stumbling block was realizing that i needed to press the button near the shifter to move selector to D. once i finally did it correctly, the light just blinked steadily, forever. when i restarted car, the power light did not blink at all. maybe something got reset? maybe binding is gone? right now i am blocked into my parking spot by a 1965 chevy pick up truck, once it moves i will take legacy for test drive.

[jimkelly1964]

binding not gone and after test drive and restart, power light flashes 16 times again. assuming i need duty c solenoid and its accompanying valve body, i think the part number for them is, 31942AA070 ??? who has the best price for this? thanks.

[Legacy777]

I'll chime in on a few things.

The other end of the green connector may be taped up on the wiring harness so you may need to dig around. Alternatively, if the green connector that is showing is the one going to the ECU you can simply ground that connector to put the ECU in the "active" diagnostic mode.

Regarding the transmission testing, did you perform both the existing and previous checks? I know the naming is weird, but one checks for current codes and one for stored codes. If you get no codes after trying both methods, try pulling the EGI/TCM fuse to clear the ECU & TCU and then see if the 16 blinks on startup continue. If they do, immediately try checking the transmission codes again.

I would suggest putting a fuse in the FWD fuse holder to see if the binding goes away. That should help you determine whether the problem is the duty c solenoid or clutch packs. Additionally, I would check the transmission fluid to see if it looks good or not. If it's not, you may want to replace the fluid as old fluid has been known to cause binding.

Lastly, I ran into an issue a few years back where a code was coming up due to a cut ground between the chassis and transmission. It was enough to cause the TCU/ECU to think the sensor was out of spec, but it was ok. It may be something to just look into for kicks and giggles.

If you find that the duty c solenoid is bad you don't need to replace the valve body. You would need to remove the rear tail section of the transmission and just replace the duty c solenoid.