I wanted to have a switch that would enable my ebrake switch to act as the little fuse in the engine compartment that lets you dissengage the clutch between the fron and rear. My theory is that with my switch off the ebrake acts normally, but with my little switch on, the ebrake switch serves a different function of closing the loop that is normally open at the AWD fuse location. This would be only for rally-x in a situation where I wanted to slide the ass end around with the ebrake and continue to have front wheel drive. In theory this could work right? Or am I just a dumb ass? what are your thoughts? How do you rally-xers do an ass end swing around on a 180° turn?
Thanks, I think this post is in the right spot
my crazy idea
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-Mike
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Well, you need an automatic to do the fuse thing.
I'm sure you could just rig a switch to disengage AWD when the e-brake is pulled, like the STi has... that is.. if you had an automatic.
If you have a manual... well, your SOL really, as the center diff isn't a clutch operated unit for the manual transmission cars.
I'm sure you could just rig a switch to disengage AWD when the e-brake is pulled, like the STi has... that is.. if you had an automatic.
If you have a manual... well, your SOL really, as the center diff isn't a clutch operated unit for the manual transmission cars.
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oh yeah baby! I'm a genious I do have a 4eat...wait I probably didn't invent this trick I just thought of it without ever hearing about it....
-Mike
2011 Infiniti G37x Sedan - Current
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If you were REAL slick, I'm sure there would be a way to have varying voltage going to the DutyC solenoid, so you could change bias.
Homemade 4eat DCCD.
Jeez, couple that with Ciper's idea for a sequential manual 4EAT, and you'd have a pretty fun little car.
Homemade 4eat DCCD.
Jeez, couple that with Ciper's idea for a sequential manual 4EAT, and you'd have a pretty fun little car.
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- Vikash
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It should be easy, Mike. The "FWD fuse holder" is actually just a switch to ground. And you know what? So's the handbrake switch!
Try this and tell us how it goes:
Get a couple of diodes. Schottky-junction ones would be ideal but I'd expect any kind would do.
Remove the center console and find the little quick-disconnect-type connector at the rear of the parking brake switch. It should have a blue-with-red-stripe wire attached to it.
Disconnect that little connector. Connect both diodes' anodes to the switch in its place.
Connect the blue-with-red-stripe wire to the cathode of one diode. Connect a long wire to the cathode of the other diode, and splice that into the black-with-red-stripe wire going to the FWD fuse holder.
You should be able to do all of this without actually cutting any wires if you just use quick disconnect connectors everywhere... a male quick disconnect should even be able to go into the FWD fuse holder.
If it works right, you should be able to just pull on the parking brake and see the FWD light come on in the dash.
Let us know if it works.
Try this and tell us how it goes:
Get a couple of diodes. Schottky-junction ones would be ideal but I'd expect any kind would do.
Remove the center console and find the little quick-disconnect-type connector at the rear of the parking brake switch. It should have a blue-with-red-stripe wire attached to it.
Disconnect that little connector. Connect both diodes' anodes to the switch in its place.
Connect the blue-with-red-stripe wire to the cathode of one diode. Connect a long wire to the cathode of the other diode, and splice that into the black-with-red-stripe wire going to the FWD fuse holder.
You should be able to do all of this without actually cutting any wires if you just use quick disconnect connectors everywhere... a male quick disconnect should even be able to go into the FWD fuse holder.
If it works right, you should be able to just pull on the parking brake and see the FWD light come on in the dash.
Let us know if it works.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
now your talking.....waiting for OB1 to chime in....[vikash]BAC5.2 wrote:If you were REAL slick, I'm sure there would be a way to have varying voltage going to the DutyC solenoid, so you could change bias.
Homemade 4eat DCCD.
-Mike
2011 Infiniti G37x Sedan - Current
2007 Ducati 800ss - Current
1994 Subaru Legacy Sport Wagon (White)
1994 Subaru Legacy Sport Wagon (Silver)
2003 Infiniri G35
1998 Infiniti I30t
1995 Honda Civic DX
1987 Subaru GL Wagon
1987 Subaru Loyale
2011 Infiniti G37x Sedan - Current
2007 Ducati 800ss - Current
1994 Subaru Legacy Sport Wagon (White)
1994 Subaru Legacy Sport Wagon (Silver)
2003 Infiniri G35
1998 Infiniti I30t
1995 Honda Civic DX
1987 Subaru GL Wagon
1987 Subaru Loyale
Couldn't this cause extra wear on duty sol C and the MPT Clutch Pack?
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I'm on First and First. How can the same street intersect with itself? I must be at the nexus of the universe.
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- Vikash
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I don't think wearing the clutch pack is a big concern, since it's designed to slip a lot. But, yes, it would probably shorten the life span of the solenoid a tiny bit. It would only be used for very short periods of time, though, so the solenoid would get breaks often.
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