my crazy idea

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 7:03 pm

I wanted to have a switch that would enable my ebrake switch to act as the little fuse in the engine compartment that lets you dissengage the clutch between the fron and rear. My theory is that with my switch off the ebrake acts normally, but with my little switch on, the ebrake switch serves a different function of closing the loop that is normally open at the AWD fuse location. This would be only for rally-x in a situation where I wanted to slide the ass end around with the ebrake and continue to have front wheel drive. In theory this could work right? Or am I just a dumb ass? what are your thoughts? How do you rally-xers do an ass end swing around on a 180° turn?

Thanks, I think this post is in the right spot

90LegAWD · Post by **90LegAWD** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 7:37 pm

sounds reasonable to me, obviously though, this would only work for 4eat

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 7:37 pm

Well, you need an automatic to do the fuse thing.

I'm sure you could just rig a switch to disengage AWD when the e-brake is pulled, like the STi has... that is.. if you had an automatic.

If you have a manual... well, your SOL really, as the center diff isn't a clutch operated unit for the manual transmission cars.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 7:49 pm

oh yeah baby! I'm a genious

I do have a 4eat...wait I probably didn't invent this trick I just thought of it without ever hearing about it....

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:33 pm

If you were REAL slick, I'm sure there would be a way to have varying voltage going to the DutyC solenoid, so you could change bias.

Homemade 4eat DCCD.

Jeez, couple that with Ciper's idea for a sequential manual 4EAT, and you'd have a pretty fun little car.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 9:02 pm

It should be easy, Mike. The "FWD fuse holder" is actually just a switch to ground. And you know what? So's the handbrake switch!

Try this and tell us how it goes:

Get a couple of diodes. Schottky-junction ones would be ideal but I'd expect any kind would do.

Remove the center console and find the little quick-disconnect-type connector at the rear of the parking brake switch. It should have a blue-with-red-stripe wire attached to it.

Disconnect that little connector. Connect both diodes' anodes to the switch in its place.

Connect the blue-with-red-stripe wire to the cathode of one diode. Connect a long wire to the cathode of the other diode, and splice that into the black-with-red-stripe wire going to the FWD fuse holder.

You should be able to do all of this without actually cutting any wires if you just use quick disconnect connectors everywhere... a male quick disconnect should even be able to go into the FWD fuse holder.

If it works right, you should be able to just pull on the parking brake and see the FWD light come on in the dash.

Let us know if it works.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Sun Dec 19, 2004 9:04 pm

BAC5.2 wrote:If you were REAL slick, I'm sure there would be a way to have varying voltage going to the DutyC solenoid, so you could change bias.

Homemade 4eat DCCD.

now your talking.....waiting for OB1 to chime in....[vikash]

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 12:48 pm

Couldn't this cause extra wear on duty sol C and the MPT Clutch Pack?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Dec 20, 2004 4:08 pm

I don't think wearing the clutch pack is a big concern, since it's designed to slip a lot. But, yes, it would probably shorten the life span of the solenoid a tiny bit. It would only be used for very short periods of time, though, so the solenoid would get breaks often.

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my crazy idea

my crazy idea