high amp alternator

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:34 pm

anyone have a high amp alternator or know where i could go to get 1? hoping for 140 to 200 amps................. thanks

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:09 pm

Yes. Legacy777 has posted about his.

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:29 pm

i saw that post.. it didnt give much detail......... gm?? no subaru upgrades??

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:57 pm

alterstart sells this one.. just found it.. still need to call and see how many amps and price.. anyone think this would work out after wiring the right plug for it????? the mounts look identical.. they wouldnt let me copy the picture

1-2097-01MI

IR/IF Alternator for Mitsubishi
75 Amp, 12 Volt, CW, 5-Groove Pulley

Used On:
(1998) Subaru Forester, Impreza 2.5L
(1997) Subaru Impreza 1.8L
(1998-97) Subaru Impreza 2.2L
Replaces:
Mitsubishi A2TA7691, Subaru 23700-AA290
Lester Nos:
13752

This alternator is also available in high output. For stereo car applications. Please call for price and availability.1-800-607-0016.

USD $195.20

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:33 am

Look at the specifications of the alternator output of other later subaru models. You might find one that would be in your range and you could make your own adapter plug for it to work. Alternators aren't very complicated and other than the plug shape they are mostly the same inside.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:50 pm

Yeah....you can pretty much use most later model subaru alternators. You'll just have to change the plug type, and extend the main leads going to the battery. That should be it.

jamal · Post by **jamal** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:30 pm

The newer plug can be retrofitted with an off the shelf GM part from what I've heard. In fact I think saw it at a pep-boys once but didn't take down any details.

There are some other places that will make you one as well such as ohio generator and mean green.

Also I have heard an STi alternator is 95A.

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:47 am

awesome!! thanks guys!!!!

gotta make sure i can supply enough juice for this hog! cuz im sure the ol 70amp wouldnt be happy or last long at all !!!!

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 6:44 am

Please post up any info you get about a 100amp plus alternator. Both have Optimus Yellow Top batteries.

I could use one for my wife's '98 LGT and my '92 LSS. The wife's car has old school Rockford Fosgate amps with Boston Acoustic Pro Series components & Pro Series 10" 2ohm sub. Mine will have Boston Pro components, Rockford amps, & Tsunami subs.

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 4:45 am

will do.. looks like mean green would be the best.. but i havnt had a chance to call or have the money quite yet... im running a yellow top AND a standard battery, and im still getting a little "light diming".. its already loud! and i dont even have that phat speaker and mono block in there yet.. i should reground the car as ive seen many people doing..

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 4:56 am

im running and planing to run many things other than bass, onboard air and more custom neon on the "list!"

(no flash but kinda blury) (i build neon lights)

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 4:56 pm

What do you have in the car to already have a little light dimming?

Too small of wiring will usually cause that IMO. Also, installing a capacitor will help. With a properly setup system, you shouldn't really have any issues.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:32 pm

I believe you were looking for the word "capacitor" instead of "capacity".

And yes, 4 AWG is the smallest I recommend on most stereos. This allows for expansion down the line w/o rerunning larger power wire. Also, a good solid/clean ground is always the best thing for an amp to run efficiently.

asc_up · Post by **asc_up** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:05 pm

i agree with jason. you can run 8 AWG wire, but i ran into problems with it once i installed a 1,600 watt amp

so i replaced all of the wires with 4 AWG wires and and 4 farad capacitor. no problems since.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:17 pm

You have to watch the sometimes false rating of high output amps. Companies can easily cheat the numbers. Also, there is nothing that governs any of the companies which would cause them to all to be on an equal playing field (2 ohm mono vs. 4 ohm stereo or 12v vs. 14.4v, on up to 16v).

The THD (total harmonic distortion) percentage is also an important number when looking at amplifier specs too. The lower the number, the more efficient the amp will run & the cleaner it will sound. This will particulally matter on amps running speakers other than subwoofers.

Also, Class D amps currently are one of the most effiecient amplifiers you can use on subwoofers but they tend to have a high THD%. Low current draw w/ high power output to the speaker. These types of amps are typically mono block amps even if they have "stereo" output speaker terminal. The speaker terminals are wired in a bridged fashion inside the amplifier. Rockford Fosgate at one time had Class BD amps, which allowed for a Class B cleaner sound for SQ competitions but had a Class D power efficiency. You will also pay a higher price for a Class D amp vs. the standard Class AB amps you find on the market.

And yes, I retained a LOT of knowledge from working at car audio shops for 7 years as a sales manager & also MECP certified installer.

asc_up · Post by **asc_up** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:21 pm

hmmmm i have a feeling you know a thing or two. hahaha. that's great information.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:26 pm

Yeah, I got the nickname "Techie" or "Spec Boy" by the owner and the other sales staff. I'd like to get my MECP Master Tech certification at some point, but there's a lot of stuff you have to cram into your head to pass the test!
http://www.mecp.com

asc_up · Post by **asc_up** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:29 pm

my dad's friend has his MECP Master Tech cert. he said it took 4 years to get it!! lol.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:42 pm

He's a lucky guy. I'm sure he worked veryhard to obtain that level. You have to know al about GPS, cell phones, just about any formula to figure stuff out (basic math, advanced geometry on up to advanced calc), and so on.

(Sorry, back on topic now...)

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:19 am

Legacy777 wrote:What do you have in the car to already have a little light dimming?

Too small of wiring will usually cause that IMO. Also, installing a capacity will help. With a properly setup system, you shouldn't really have any issues.

you want to see?? its not quite done.. ill show you but dont tell anyone...

(backseat)

(tire compartment)

it beats! and it only dims a little when im running everything.. (lights,heat,tunes,wipers,ect.)the smaller wires are only like 2 feet long and the power wire is awat gauge..(its the biggest wire..how to spell?)it was installed by a pro who happens to be a great friend.. im not sure how long he has been doing car audio installation but its been a long time... he went from car toys to best buy to magnolia and now he is at a place in bellvue called benchmark.. its the top of the line he shows me pictures of lambos all the time.. he put a laser shifter in ichiro suzukis new porsche!

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:55 am

The power wire you are using is refered to as 1/0 AWG. That is what I have sitting in my garage on a spool waiting to be installed. I'll be running a relocated Optima in the trunk. The fact that I have a dealer account with Metra Electronics is a plus with purchasing all my goodies (Metra, Tsunami, Raptor, Axxess, Monkey Video, etc.).

BTW, the trunk install looks like it's at a good starting point. The JL Slash Series amplifiers are great to use. I'd love to get my hands on a 500/5 sometime!

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:44 pm

dropdfocus wrote:I believe you were looking for the word "capacitor" instead of "capacity". And yes, 4 AWG is the smallest I recommend on most stereos. This allows for expansion down the line w/o rerunning larger power wire. Also, a good solid/clean ground is always the best thing for an amp to run efficiently.

Yeah....I mistyped that

justin the subie · Post by **justin the subie** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:10 pm

dropdfocus wrote:I'll be running a relocated Optima in the trunk.

heres mine...

see the isolator? that too is not quite finished.. im hoping to route tubing around that when i do my fmic.

dropdfocus · Post by **dropdfocus** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:38 pm

Nice.

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high amp alternator

high amp alternator