legacycentral bbs

It just so happens that things have changed in the last few weeks and I've sold my car.

If anyone wants to give this a try, please give Brian at small car a call.


Kyle

Well, I traded e-mails with Brian at smallcar.com today. He said he's ordered 10 1-4psi pressure switches for use with turbo cars. I'm going to be the guinea pig for this one, so I'll let everyone know how it goes when I get it in and drive around a bit.

Kyle

Yes. ANY information is helpful, Larry. Thank you for making the effort. Still, torque converters are still one of those things that are just a mystery.

Kyle

evolutionmovement wrote:That's what drove me to replace my transmission. Main shaft bearing. Probably cheaper and quicker to replace with a lower mileage used unit.

Steve

Took the words right out of my mouth.

K.

Sounds like something connected to the input of the transmission. When the clutch is out and the car is in neutral the shaft spins at engine speed.

Have you looked at the transmission fluid?

Ditto.

One of the input shaft bearings or something else internal. I would drain the fluid check the ...

I spoke with Brian at smallcar yesterday. He says the pressure switch they are using won't do positive pressure, but a different switch that has a range covering 2-3-4 psi would probably do the trick.

Personally, I think boost/vacuum is a better indication of true load than the tps, but we'd all ...

No.

Throwout bearing noise is when the clutch is out. The clutch fork is not applying pressure to the bearing so it makes noise. Apply even light pressure to the clutch and the noise will subside.

Kastrix- did you do your own clutch? Did you replace the throwout and pilot bearings?

The other ...

I dont think you should bypass the stock unit, it acts as a transmission pre warmer. If you bypass it your transmission will be cold for longer when you first start driving.

That's interesting. I'd like to read some of the theory on that. Most of what I read said bypass the stock cooler ...

I thouught the TC bolts on the NA was hard, I feel your pain!

How much time did it take to bet the pins ligned up and everything slid into place? Did you have a hard time getting the flexe plate to enter the TC and the holes aligned?

Did you make sure the transmission mount in the rear wasnt ...

First of all, this was a complete pain in the effen ass. But... I won't complain, it's done and it works.

Does anyone have any idea how to get the TC bolts off without pulling the oil pan? You can't use the upper port because the turbo and all its related jazz is in the way. The bottom way is ...

Send a PM to "ciper". He's the auto trans guru. From one of his past posts, I seem to remember him saying you can use pretty much any TC you want from any subaru. IIRC, he's used 1.8 2.2 and 2.5L 4EAT TCs interchangeably.

Kyle

Cool. 4.3V is what I needed to know.

Its an adjustable voltage clamp with a 25-turn pot. It lets the signal pass through until the trigger voltage and then clamps steady from there. Very similar to your design, from what I can tell.

Correct me if I'm wrong though, doesn't yours depress the curve ...

Just curious if anyone has used the MRT FCD? I just got one from a friend for $50. It has an adjustment pot and an indicator light to tell you when it is working.

I haven't installed it yet. I'm waiting to do a couple of other things to my car.

The only thing I don't have a good feeling about so ...

The coolant conditioner is simply your garden variety stop-leak.

The problem is on Phase II EJ25s up to 2001 model year.

The head gaskets are prone to leak at the rear driver's side. There is a spot where they develop a leak between the lower side coolant passage and the outside. They don't breach ...

You're probably looking at a rebuild. I took mine to a shop that knows subarus (at least more than most) and they said the reverse clutch is usually the first to wear out. The rest aren't far behind. Hence, rebuild.

The fact that it is shifting normally otherwise and not making any noises probably ...

How far are you from Longview, WA? A couple of hours?

PM'd you some info on a tranny.

Kyle

The gears arent the main issue though.

It's the case flexing which causes the gear to brake
No, I'm not entirely saying it is just the tranny. I more than agree with you. I would say its probably something like 50/50 design vs. driver.

You are right on the money for the reason though. It is case ...

DO NOT use an RS trans in your legacy. You'll blow it to bits in no time.

It is a very common thing for RS owners to strip second gear right out after going turbo with only light boost (~3-5psi or maybe 210hp).

This is the same transmission used in all 5mt foresters, outbacks and legacy GTs.

The ...

Do a search for the secret handshake with the key and the shifter to read to the codes. It will be a series of flashes on the power light.

Kyle

We'll i've searched, but I don't seem to be able to find the USDM legacy turbo gear ratios. I know the final drive is 3.90.

It turns out that the legacy trannies that I'm getting to replace my own have the following gear ratios...
1 2.785
2 1.545
3 1.000
4 0.694

The final drive is 4.44 and at ...

IIRC, EJ25s with Autos are either 4.11 or 4.44.

Don't get mental yet about codes and stuff yet.

I would go to autozone or the like and buy a can of spark wire drier. It is basically a water repellant. You spray it on your coil and spark wires and it if it is the wires, your problem should improve.

Better yet, new wires for your car are about ...

Ditto. Cannister purge solenoid.

Pull the codes. It is pretty simple to follow the instructions.

Kyle

What about Torque converters?

Kyle

Yep. 10-4 on the diff ratio.

Ciper: Sent you a PM about an older post.

Kyle