legacycentral bbs

That's the issue with using any sort of corrosion remover - the chance to expose future leaks is pretty significant... Thats the big minus for any of the chemical treatments. (Plus cleaning a coolant leak out of the interior is a PITA)

Rabin

I'd say it was your heater core as well If engine temps are normal. IIRC Mercedes has a cooling system cleaner that works well, but I would likely remove and clean the heater core separate, or replace if the price wasn't crazy expensive.

I haven't owned a Legacy in a long time, but I still like ...

Yeah - after running all the scenarios it just makes sense to find a 2.5 to replace it with. Trouble is finding a decent 2.5 to swap. Local wrecker said all he has are cores that are either had broken T-belts or they had rods through the blocks. Might be worth getting a t-belt core engine, but the ...

I'm helping a buddy that has a good EJ22 (heads done, etc etc) in his crappy rusty auto wagon, and has made a deal on a 00' 5-sp RS (SOHC 2.5) with a hole in the block.

Ideally getting a replacement 2.5 is what he'd like, but for the time being swapping in the 2.2 as a temp measure would be great ...

Well - parked the car at a 30 degree angle with the front up nice and high, waited till cool, bled the rad out as much as possible, fired it up with the resevoir halfway between add and full, and put on an OEM rad cap. (Rad cap was replaced back with everything else - looked fine)

So far it looks ...

Thanks to soobcollektor I have some replacements to go into the car...

Rabin

I think you're right... :)

After the rally-x the car had super hot heat at idle. I was like WTF? Now it's an intermittent problem.

Resevoir levels were fine, rad level was right near the top so I kinda ruled it out.

I think a new cap and bleeding the cooling system with the front end up nice and ...

Car has had the head gaskets done, and had an OEM water pump at the same time.

The issue is new this winter, didn't do it last winter that I can remember... Still thinking that it's the heater core itself and will likely try flushing just the core when the temps are less severe.

Air flow through ...

Hmmm - I never thought of swapping the hoses at the heater core.

Did some more playing last night and the car idles at the second notch on the tach (In gear) which I assume is 750 rpm (first notch is just off the bottom, second is halfway to 1000 rpm). Raise it up to just 900 - 1000 rpm and heat is ...

Pump was done at the same time - OEM as well. Not sure if you remember - but I've had the car a while. Total basket case when I bought it. $5k+ in parts alone later and it's my daily driver beater.

Engine was pulled, resealed, water pump, head gaskets done, all new hoses, etc etc. TONS of work on ...

Thanks Josh - and it is baffling - but I don't think it's the thermostat. It's OEM, and it only has maybe 20K miles max since it was done. Engine temps are rock solid.

If it was the thermostat stuck open, the car would not warm up at all in these temps. It's really fricken cold - most people can't ...

I'm you're neighbour, and arch nemisis in football. :) (not a big football fan - but the rivalry is fun) I updated my profile - thought it had my location already.

Does your Subaru have full heat at idle in this cold? Needs to idle a while - but it definitely gets cooler and cooler till the revs ...

Thanks for the input. Cardboard in the front helps the car warm up faster, and helps keep it at operating temps on the highway in the cold - no effect at idle.

With the thermostat - engine temp should then fluctuate with the heat temp - but mine isn't. It only takes a few hundred RPM to get the ...

Hi guys,

New problem surfaced with the 90' Legacy. Starts great and warms up fast, but when idling at a light the heat slowly gets cooler and cooler. (Engine temp stays the same - dead center) As soon as revs come up it's instant heat again.

Doesn't seem to be the thermostat as the engine temp is ...

My engine is pretty squeaky clean. Synthetic stays nice and clean, and has been on synthetic for the last 40k kms. Currently has 370k kms (231k miles)

Runs awesome aside from the tic - so need to get it sorted. Hopefully I can find some spare lash adjusters that will do the trick as I suspect it's ...

I've read up on bleeding them, but once they go, I've read that it's usually a temp solution to bleed them as they'll eventually tic again.

I've cleaned the oil passages in the rocker arms with hopes that it would refill - but no luck. I might try to bleed it to see how long it lasts - but was ...

I can't really justify the downtime to send you the lifters - but if they're "fixable" then I might give it a go to see what makes them tic... (Now that was a bad pun!)

Any advise would be appreciated - but maybe I will check them out to see if there's a way to fix them.

Car is a beater and I've ...

I doubt the engine is dirty though - it was resealed about 40K KMS ago, and has run Mobil 1 synthetic since. Can't get seafoam up here anyway either. (Inside valve cover is spotless - so is oil)

Prior to the oil passage fix - I caned it within an inch of it's life as that was the usual fix any time ...

Hi guys,

I just started getting a lifter tic, isolated which one it was with a stethescope, and just tried cleaning the rocker arm oil passage as a remedy.

Failing this fix I figure the lifter just might be toast, which means others will possibly be on their way out as well. (Started and ran for a ...

I frantically made calls to the wreckers around here without any hope of finding anything - but managed to find a 90K mile 92' SS. He'll match the price of the drive shaft ($175) off car-part.com - but I gotta pull it. Tempted since I get to see it and test u-joints to make sure it's good before ...

Hi guys,

As you can probably tell by the list - front u-joint let go and hammered the shifter and the cable.

So I'd like a good used ones to replace all three if possible, along with a TCU. (I'm still getting some binding after replacing the duty solenoid. It's intermittant, and the LSD additive ...

Not sure you're using it or not - but is the driveshaft (complete from diff to x-fer case) available, as well as the shifting assembly?

I'm in Canada, so shipping might be a bugger, but not too bad. I also have an address in the States if that works better for UPS ground. 58765

Thanks!

Rabin

Thanks subyluvr2212!

My sister bought a 2001 Legacy GT for a great price. Checked it out for her yesterday so that I could swtich it to synthetic oil (with OEM filter), as well as fix a heating issue, and look at why the cruise wasn't working.

Replaced the thermostat with OEM and it solved problem ...

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=23949

There's some good info in this post - just search the entire driveline section with key words and your bound to find great info.

The rear output shaft slides right out and has clutch disks inside a housing that I assume are the disks you need to ...

Does the power light flash at all on start up? (16 or so times)

If no then I'd say the problem is the clutch pack and not the solenoid.

In my case, if the light flashed at start up I'd have binding on turns, or FWD only (rarely). If it didn't flash it was OK.

This morning it flashed and I had ...