legacycentral bbs

I run 205/50-16 Falken 512s on mine. 205/50-16 is almost dead on to the stock rolling diameter of the Legacy SS.

Wow!!! I thought I got a great deal when I paid $750 for my 91SS (and it turned out to have a bad torque convertor (which I already suspected when I bought it) and a seized turbo (which I unfortunately found out after the fact)).

418K miles is insane...mine has about 185k or so at the moment (which ...

I had their SPEC Stage 2 (Kevlar) Clutch and their lightweight flywheel in my 2.5RS.

I hated the clutch (overheated too easily and once it did it was useless until it cooled back down again) and have since replaced it with an Exedy Stage I (organic) clutch kit instead.

I absolutely love the ...

Well, since I'm trying to not drive my 2.5RS (as it has recently developed a notably bad wheel bearing), I decided to throw the stock exhaust back on the Legacy.

After doing so, I'm no longer 100% convinced that the new exhaust is actually too short. While I did get the stock exhaust on, it was a ...

I thought the midpipe was the only thing that needed to be changed between the 2 cars.

You mean downpipe, right? :? Don't go adding any more confusion to this addled brain, now! :lol:

Yeah, that is quite strange. Did your friend use all of the hangars?

I was leaving this part out as it wasn't ...

BTW, this was exactly the problem. It slid right off once I got that bolt removed. The really odd thing is that I looked in the FSM while I working on this problem and somehow completely overlooked that bolt which is right there in black and white in the manual. D'oh! :oops:

Thanks again everyone ...

I installed an exhaust on my car that had previously been installed on a 91 4EAT. With the exception of the tranny bracket for the downpipe not fitting properly, everything else was fine. Thats strange that you're having that many problems.


What year is your car? I assume it's a 5MT?


And yes ...

The lengthened section is at the rearmost part of the midpipe at the rear flange (behind the hanger on the midpipe). There appears to have been no other changes to any of the other pipes (in length anyway). The front muffler hanger is in the correct place front-to-back, the misalignment there is ...

I recently acquired a Stromung 2.5" turbo back that has been modified to be bolt-on for a Legacy SS (was originally for a WRX). According to the previous owner it was on a 94SS w/5MT and VF11 and fit perfectly. My car is a 91SS w/4EAT and TD05H-16G and the exhaust has three issues preventing it from ...

Ya, sounds like you missed the bell housing mount.

I was kinda wondering that myself when I was searching for downpipe removal info on NASIOC this evening and noticed that the WRX apparently has another connection partway up the downpipe. I wasn't sure if this connection existed on the BC Legacy ...

:(

Ok...what am I missing here? :? I'm trying to remove my stock turbo-back (91SS). I've completely removed the exhaust that follows the downpipe. I've removed the two bolt/nut combos and removed the nuts from the 3 nut/stud combos on the downpipe/turbo flange. I've removed the bolt underneath the ...

I've got an Autometer Phantom in the Legacy (was originally in the RS (back when I was planning to turbo the RS...and now I'm thinking about doing so again) as it's white faced, but it's in the Legacy temporarily until I figure out a more permanent mounting method and buy a black-faced gauge for it ...

Hopefully a new lock from subaru will be the same as my older one. The new key looks to have fewer cuts.........

That's where I got my replacement lock was from the dealer (from Kent at Prestige, to be precise) and had no issues with it. I don't know how specific they are to a model type, though ...

That's shown up on eBay a few times within the last few weeks. I didn't pay that much attention, though, since I didn't need one...hehe

What did you do, Scott, just copy and paste your write up from before? hehe :lol:

I used those same instructions that Scott just posted and it was an absolute cinch. Removing and reinstalling the handle/lock assembly in the door is much more of a pain than the actual rekeying process (actually the ...

http://www.ffcobra.com/FAQ/brakes3.html
(originally from Grassroots Motorsports magazine)

I was going to post a link to the brake test that GRM did comparing stock brakes vs. upgraded (pads, fluid, etc.) vs. a big brake kit, but I can't seem to find that anywhere and the only similar article I can ...

Any way to see pics of where the stock valve is located? where is the output of the stock valve?

http://www.warpthree.com/images/misc/legacy_bpv.gif

Part #16 is the bypass valve. It is located under the turbo to throttle body pipe (there is a 90-degree elbow that sticks out of the underside of ...

Ummm...I'm not quite sure what you are asking, turbonator.

FYI: The stock bypass valve is located under the turbo to throttle body pipe (and taps off of said pipe) and connects back to the turbo inlet hose for recirc and to the driver side rear of the intake manifold for vacuum.

Within a couple weeks after posting the above reply, I went to Advance and bought a starter and swapped it out and it's been great since.

Well...yesterday, it did the SAME EXACT thing again (i.e. turn key and nothing but some dash light dimming)!!! :x I had someone turn the key while I whacked the ...

That reminds me of an article on AutoSpeed where they were noting that one of the primary methods that an intercooler works is acting as a temporary heat-sink under boost, then releasing the heat back into the intake under lower loads. The theory was that if the heat-sink was effective enough (the ...

Something more like this then, perhaps?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=41592

FWIW: The 91 FSM shows different removal instructions for the turbo vs. non-turbo grill as the clips are different (and they look different from the FSM pics as well). Of course, I don't really know whether that excludes them from interchanging or not, though.

Ok, finally got some pics (unfortunately, no before pics, though).

Two things of note:
1) Note the color of the bumper turn signals. This is very similar to what the headlights looked like originally.
2) The passenger side lens is now MUCH clearer than the driver side lens. I suspect this is ...

Unfortunately, this isn't one of their free articles (so you need to have purchased issue #57 to read it), but this AutoSpeed article describes a great method for venting factory bypass valves without venting air at idle (it's essentially a form of bleed like you'd see in bleed-style boost ...

Never did get pics of mine (doh), but I did get them finished and reinstalled last night. I wet-sanded with 220, 400, 800, then 1000 grit (the four types that come in the 3M variety pack at Advance Auto Parts :lol: ), then did a thin coat of DupliColor clearcoat, followed by a thicker coat of it ...