legacycentral bbs

Hey guys,
I have been doing some searching and haven't been able to come up with a firm answer here.

I have a set of slightly used (around 3,000 miles) GR-2's for my used-to-be FWD 91 L. I have since gone AWD with a much nicer suspension setup. Now with a few hundred dollars worth of suspension ...

IIRC the wastegate boost is somewheres around 6 psi.

According to the GM guy when the car was run without the cat the decrease in back pressure effected the O2 readings. The O2 sensor made the fuel map crazy and I ran it like that. It started fouling plugs about every 10K. I guess the early GM ECU's were pretty picky. The CEL came on right after I ...

Well I noticed a nice rattle coming from my cat. Aparantly the element has finally turned to gravel. What do you guys think about running a NA engine catless? Will it CEL all the time (like my last car did) or fowel plugs (again like my last car did)? What will be the negative effects?

It took quite a few attempts to bleed mine out. I had to heat cycle for about 200-300 miles before I stoped getting air.

Its ran around the yard. Besides there is no vibration anywhere else in the car. Just through the stick. Nothing through the steering wheel or seats....at least nothing the butt-o-meter can pick up.

I mispoke a bit. Not driven = not driven on the road.

Not running on the road for a month wouldn't change anything about the tires. The car is moved every 3-4 days...just not driven at high speeds on the road.

You really have to watch autozone and advance auto when you buy things for the legacy. The way there computers list items is very weird. Last time I went I watched as the guy sellected a 93 SS (correct) and when he went to spark plugs it listed items that said non-turbo. I have noticed the same ...

+1 on the 16G and intercooler

I would add a nice exhaust setup at the same time.

Perhaps a more proper terminology for that pipe is up pipe - Goes UP to the turbo.

Possible points of leaks:
Most likely: Front main, Cam seals, power steering pump

Thats the most likely things. I would start by inspecting the PS to make sure its dry. Then pull the belts and timing cover and see ...

I've actually noticed a slight vibration in my winter beater after it sits for a while not being driven (A month or so). After its driven a while it seems to go away...or else I get used to it.

See what she does. If your not planning on going on a 500 mile trip I would just drive it until it pulls ...

Unless things are really bad there isn't going to be anything noticeably different with the fluid on the dipstick. The only wy to see if there is a problem (where fluid is concerened) is to drain the fluid and watch what comes out. If chunks and shavings come out your probably at a no-turning-back ...

This seems to have been brought up a lot lately. Few people having trouble with pulley wobble. In another post someone said the torque spec should be much higher than what the FSM suggests.

There is a oil pan gasket you can buy. The one I have, IIRC was made by Felpro. You don't need to use it though. I've done them both ways and no difference.

I can't seem to find good data on the Hella lamps. Anyone know the candel power for the FF1000, 3000, and 4000? Just wondering how they compare to the KC 800's.

I would first check the grounding to the motor. If that doesn't help I would check fuel pressure and try looking into the FSM and seeing exactly how you test to see that the coil is getting the right signal from the ECU.

I'll check the Hella's out.

But, I've pushed my hand a little bit and decided that I can spend a little more cash on these. Its something thats good to have around even if my beater dies. So without spending over $500 is my goal now.

Ideally I would like to turn the night into day when I'm out in ...

...and who the hell said short gears were a bad thing...WOOO HOOO

Damn gas mileage anyway

The only other thing you should need is the clutch components as far as I know (pedal?, cable, fork). You'll proabably wanna throw a new flywheel at it (if you have the money) and a clutch kit (clutch disk, PP, bearings). There a lot of people selling flywheels and clutch kits on ebay. Got mine from ...

I see a lot of Subarus with the nice big bright rally lights mounted to the front bumper. I would like to do this for my daily driver since we like to go out in the woods at night every now and then. What do you guys suggest for a set of lights. I want them to be as bright as I can get them without ...

IIRC the rear diff housings are the same for both GR...if you went to a 4.11 final you should be able to swap guts rather than changing the whole rear diff (probably cheaper...not necisarily less labor intensive).

I would personally stay with the 3.9 if its a daily driver.

Is the hesitation just in a specific RPM range (3K - 4K) or is it a hesitation anywhere about 3K? Highe RPM hesitations generally indicate a bad ground. Motor grounding is next to the driver side valve cover. One ground for the entire engine harness. Do a search, there was another member that had ...

Just saw your remark on synthetic vs semi vs mineral...
In my OPINION you don't want to go to a synthetic or semi synthetic unless you have 1) been using it right along or 2)reseal the engine

When I was taking engineering classes one of the classes was based on engine theory. One of the cooler labs was testing different oils based on brand and oil weight (all non-synthetic). The most interesting thing that we noticed was that good old cheap oil from the dollar store worked just as well ...

Phil I think your partially right on this. But what I'm saying is that some companies put detergents in there fluids. When detergents are added they break up deposits. No, a deposit isn't going to stop oil from spraying everywhere but what it will do is keep a small leak plugged up. When the ...