legacycentral bbs

sweet. that makes everything easier

so, my car started making a very weird rattling noise. at first, i thought it was just something in the engine bay that had gotten loose and was vibrating, but it started getting bad, and didn't stop or change pitch when i rev'd. anyways, i got out of the car while it was running, popped the hood, a...

Perrin ones pop up on nasioc if you look. then you can save some money. and a "cheap" hid kit is just that, cheap and crappy. personally, i wouldn't run a lightened pulley on any car i own. too much risk of bearing or crank damage, and only for a few HP. people say subaru's don't have to d...

interesting. looking at the perrin site, i found this

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared ... int720.pdf

vrg3 wrote:ciper - That part is only on pre-facelift models, I think.

you can make your own pretty easily. thats what i was talking about earlier in the thread.

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=48942

It also says that the duty cycle will have to be retuned; you don't have the means to retune your boost control solenoid duty cycle. If I were in your shoes I'd just scrap the stock boost control system altogether and go to an MBC. the only problem with that is that would put me in street modified ...

so, my boost control solenoid isn't working. i was looking around and found this. would this work on a turbo legacy? on the prodrive America website, it says all turbo models http://www.prodriveamerica.com/ProductPages/3port.htm http://www.flatironstuning.com/shop/p-1010-prodrive-3-port-boost-contro...

now just make yourself a cooling panel too

looks nice

Soul Shinobi wrote:Yeah, I just went to Pepboys and they wanted $69.95 for a generic one and $89.95 for the right one by Bosch.

$119.95 list for the OEM one, $86.36 from www.1stsubaruparts.com.

I'll have to junk-yard it.

do you know the part number?

i sent you a pm about the boost control solenoid

-Ted

What are the benefits of this larger radiator over the stock radiator? larger water capacity, which increases thermal efficiency of your cooling system. it makes it easier for your engine to run at normal operating temps. however, you don't really need an upgraded radiator unless your making quite ...

you may want to look into a mr2 bypass. its a pull type, so it won't leak

thanks Greg. i think im going to get those steering bushings soon, when i free up a few bucks. i bought too much stuff this week (boost gauge, holder, underbrace, endlinks, and some other non-car stuff), so i need to back off for a bit.

very nice. however i think those vents are a too short, so i still think that the left side vent will be used. i got an idea from a friend on a way to do it better. http://www.imageartstudio.com/justjoe/images/stri2.jpg http://www.imageartstudio.com/justjoe/images/gauge-wip1.jpg http://www.imagearts...

that crossed my mind, but unless i could measure and verify it beforehand, i wouldn't want to spend money on it.

i haven't been able to find any CRX or Civic DX single pods in a 60mm size though. ive only seen 52mm

If this would be a "re-flash" of sorts with this chip, and it was priced reasonably, i'd be in for it.

-Ted

so i ended up getting a good deal on a HKS ring gauge stand, so that will be its temporary home http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/1334.jpg still couldn't find anything that would work as an A-pillar pod other than a "universal" one, which would probably fit really crappy. so far, my id...

http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp ... =GW-20-434

so, would this work as a quick solution till i make something a little more discrete?

Edit: never mind - 2 5/8" is around 66mm, where 60mm is around 2.4" so that opening will be too big

yeah, i saw your set up when i was searching. its very creative, but i can't think of a way to apply your idea without coping it straight out, which i would feel like im devaluing your work.

how about some info on a 60mm single a-pilar pod. keep the ideas coming, but i really need a pod quickly.

well, why would it be going off of a solenoid in the first place. shouldn't it be controlling boost off the actuator's spring? i know my alltrac only has a line between the actuator and the intake manifold, and then there is a line to a vacuum switching valve to lower boost in the first two gears wh...

wow, your back. i thought you disappeared or something. BTW, thanks for the vacuum diagrams, they are extremely helpful. I'll do those two tests this week. are boost control solenoids hard or expensive to get? i hope not. how about for the restrictor? yeah, i need to just get a new O2 sensor already...

its not in safe mode to my understanding. i threw two engine codes awhile back, but thats all.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=
they keep popping up when im on the highway cruising, but never intown.

So, im currently getting .4 bar of boost on my new gauge (approximately 6psi). i thought the stock boost was a little higher than that? i used a t-fitting on the vacuum line that comes off of the intake manifold and goes to the bypass valve, since that was the closest line to reduce the length of to...

its a greddy 60mm, and i think i'll install it on the A pillar (i think leaving it taped to the dash is really ghetto :P). i read about the CRX and GC pillar pods, but i still haven't been able to find the pillar pod i need. i already searched a bit, but couldn't find anything. does anyone know of a...