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I would check for corroded wiring and grounding. As things expand and contract with temperatures, corroded connections make intermittent problems. Check the voltage at B+ terminal at the alternator and make sure the voltage feedback sense is hooked up so that the alternator knows the voltage at the ...

The resistor pack is easy to replace. Two screws for the glove box, remove an electrical connector, and another two screws for the resistor pack.

It's a vicious cycle if you don't address the original issue. The resistor is an open element type and it depends on the airflow in the box to cool ...

Our cars use a recirculating type system that sends fuel back to the tank. As the fuel circulates through the system and it goes back to the tank, it warms up and builds pressure.

Normally, it exhales through the canister which lets it breath out while capturing the gasoline vapor in it. When the ...

Thanks guys for looking.

I looked again at the Subaru ECU diagram and it shows 6 wires so I'll just go with that. Blue/Brown being throttle signal.

If I ever get my parts from Subaruparts.com I'll let yall know how it goes.

I don't know enough about the way ECU's outputs are setup and how ...

Definitely sounds like motorized dampers trying to pull it past a resistance and skipping gears.

Pull the center vents off and stick a small flash light and a small webcam or an inspection camera down it. You'll be able to see some parts of dampers moving.

Maybe something lodged in there or ...

200K.

We're not ignoring you :)
I skimmed through the manual. How I understand it is that this module is piggy backed onto specific control lines to sniff the communication from the lines and the ones that are cut and looped through is to alter the communication.

I can't just guess what the blue wire ...

FRONT wheel drive automatic.

Funny I just suddenly started having this issue. Must be an intermittent floater. How difficult is it to get to what you're describing Josh? Any recommendations?

Over a year ago, my tranny slipped like hell, threw a code. I though it was done, then it went away on its own. Slipping stayed, but ...

I just worked on changing out all the vacuum lines to correct unstable idle. I found a bit of PS fluid leak at the rubber line between the reservoir and the line, so I changed that also. I lost a little bit of PS fluid which is Dextron III, but as far as I know it isn't connected to ATX.

Is there ...

You likely have rubbed or melted through one of the big fat wires and shorted out to something on grounded component.

The fuel pressure is set for psi relative to intake vacuum. I think its 35 psi or so.
The atmosphere is 14.7 psia

So, if the intake vacuum is 20" and fuel pressure regulator is not getting any vacuum, you'd be pushing an extra 10 psig of fuel pressure at the injectors, because the regulator tries ...

It would be grateful if you can really rip it apart and share some photos. I'd like to know what/if any rubber components are present before I use any cleaner on it.

That's for the TURBO version and its missing all the larger hoses, which includes PCV and IAC. The piece I showed a picture of that attaches to passenger valve cover is omitted in VRG's diagram.

There's a hose labeled "fuel vapor use, not for fuel line". That's what I used.

Rotate it back and forth while wedging it on the direction of removal. I used a flat head screw driver as a wedge. You can use a pair of pliers to rotate it, but pinch away from fittings so you don't crush them in.

I ...

The vacuum diagram sticker under the hood is not quite complete. Does someone have a good vacuum diagram or know where to look?

I've been having intermittent idle stumbling and general idle instability. If you don't know when the vacuum lines were changed or they obviously look original, I suggest ...

There is a small 1/8" right angle nipple which connects to some kind of solenoid device. Right on the top of throttle body next to throttle position sensor. It hooks up to a tiny rubber line the size of windshield washer fluid line and it's obviously pneumatic / vacuum control of some sort but when ...

You still have the broken bolt head? One thing you can do is to drill a hole down the center on a drill press. I'd start with 1/8 or 3/32 and use it to guide the drill bit.

Fit the drilled broken head, hold it in place with a socket and feed the bit through where the ratchet goes in to drill the ...

It's hard to visualize the circumstance without a picture.
If you You should drill the bolt incrementally. Something about 1/2 the diameter, then next size, then next size.
If you use a small extractor, it will break.

Ive been interested in installing a filter kit since I need to change the fluid anyways. Has anyone done this? Good experience or bad?

No experience about the filter. Bad experience with complete fluid exchange. You can't get all the fluid out in most automatic transmission, so to replace most of ...

Mine wobbles a bit too. I wonder if it has to do with having a hammer used on it to remove it before I bought it.

I think the key to pull something out on a close fitting part is to pull it out very straight. I've had an electric motor that I couldn't pry open, but when I lifted very evenly while ...

EJ22 NA. It doesn't stall, but it skips a beat or two and shudders sometimes while idling. Where should I start looking?

Legacy777 wrote:The plug makes both fans work at the same time when either the ECU turns the fans on or the HVAC system turns the fans on.

Do both fans currently turn on at the same time?

It's the plug by the right side headlight, right? There's nothing in mine, but both fans run when A/C is on.

but the compressor engaged and spun the entire time. Would it do this without a good charge?)

It's not terribly hard. You'll need to pick up a couple bolts from the hardware store first, but that's all.
Before you do anything, turn the center piece by hand and check for smooth rotation without ...

Wrap up a rubber glove to seal it up. If it makes any difference, remove, re-wrap a few more times to pinpoint the cause.