UHEV Legacy Version 2.0

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 6:55 pm

I've played a little bit with the quicktune, but that was by myself. I'm going to try this weekend to borrow a friend to drive while I tune. In which case, I can probably more effectively use quicktune. You have to hold the crosshairs in the center of the box to get it to adjust the box, and it has to sit there for a certain amount of time without any excessive rpm changes.

So it does work, but it's far from one of those tools that will magically setup your fuel table for you without some work.

10khz may be a little excessive, but as of the moment, I don't see any time I would be logging over 30 minutes worth of data. If I were going to do a track day or something, and needed more time, I could bump it down.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:44 am

That's kind of a bummer on the quick tune. I envisioned that it would be like other systems in that you simply drive around and it trims the table to the target you choose. Holding the cross-hairs steady and trimming is what I do manually.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:27 am

LOL!! Pictures were taken of me when I was spot blasting...

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:56 am

His identity remains a mystery!

BTW my stepdad has those same shoes.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:58 am

Greetings, earthing....

I love my garage shoes. Best $20 I ever spent at Kohls.

My original build thread has a pic of me, btw.

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:14 pm

93forestpearl wrote:That's kind of a bummer on the quick tune. I envisioned that it would be like other systems in that you simply drive around and it trims the table to the target you choose. Holding the cross-hairs steady and trimming is what I do manually.

Yeah it's definitely not an auto tune type thing. I haven't played with it much, but I don't think you can just drive around and have it tune itself.

They do have a new function called AFR Correction. Here's a quick blurb from the help file. I tried messing with it once, but I didn't see anything happening....

"When AFR Correction is enabled a correction is applied to the main fuel table based on the difference between the current AFR Target value from the AFR Target Table and the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1.

This means that once an engines Fuel Table has been tuned to give the AFR's shown in the AFR Target table (usually done using Quick Tune), adjustment to numbers in the AFR Target table will result in a change to the actual AFR to match the value in the target table.

AFR Correction allows a properly tuned engine to have its AFR values changed quickly. This means that an engine can be made slightly richer or leaner on location without the need for a retune.

Another use for AFR Correction is to set the AFR Target table to a flat 12:1 AFR under power, tune the engine to 12:1, then adjust the AFR Targets for peak torque.

Note: It is only recommended that AFR values be changed to within +/-1 1.0 AFR from the number the engine was originally tuned to."

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:46 am

Got the turbo today. Its slightly larger.....

And yes it does fit. Even with AC, that I don't have.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yb8H9462U1s

N1446 · Post by **N1446** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:33 am

might i say
ThaT my friend
is quite the paperweight

SubaruNation · Post by **SubaruNation** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:09 am

so is white the color that you are doing the car? or was the black the color?

yeah your build is going to be redic.

so sweet. i will put down cash on those stickers when you make them too

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:17 am

The white car isn't mine. Derek (whitelegacyguy) is the true pioneer with that turbo. I posted some video in the turbo section of it in action.

And by no means is it a paper weight, lol. With control of the vanes, the boost threshold is 2500 rpm, and 20 psi is easily attainable by 4000 rpm. Out of a GT37.

It comes down to a balance between boost and exhaust restriction in the end. In the video we posted he broke all four tires loose and was spinning them bouncing off the rev limiter...

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:03 am

Damn dude....that thing is crazy.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:10 am

I wish I had a recording of the whistle. There's nothing like a jet engine sound when you are putting around town. Next time Derek come's to town I'll grab some video.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:50 pm

lol does it sound like a big rig?

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:31 am

^ Not quite. When you remove the silencer on the compressor housing, it just plain loud.

Anyways.....

I'm going to a GT4088R compressor wheel, housing, and backing plate. The 40R is the new 20G, lol. My buddy has a munched 40R laying around so $100 and my old housing steps up the game a bit. 4.4mm on the inducer and about 6mm on the exducer. w00t

Also, 4 inch piping fits under the fender just fine. w00t

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:52 am

It needs some work, but the 40R compressor does interchange with the journal bearing counterparts. The housing mounting holes are further inward compared to the stock housing, so I need some allen head bolts and washers, or something.

Hopefully it doesn't surge too bad at low boost, but the additional 12 lb/min capability should make it worth it. Either way, it will sound pretty baddass at 3000 rpm, lol.

This was previously used here:

yazmo · Post by **yazmo** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:18 pm

lol nice placement for the turbo

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:49 pm

Is that where you're going to mount yours? Looks sick there.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:40 pm

lol, no foglight mounted turbos for me. It works very well, but its a pain in the ass. You need a sump tank below the turbo and a scavange pump to push the oil back up to the motor.

I'm using the variable geometry turbo so I don't have to go that route in order to get the response I'm looking for.

kimokalihi · Post by **kimokalihi** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:48 pm

Oh, yeah forgot about that. I read about that in Maximum Boost (turbo book). Learned a lot from that book but I'm just trying to get my first turbo car together for the first time so I've got a lot more to learn.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:11 am

I did some basic plotting on the compressor map to see if this thing will be decent at lower flow rates or just want to surge all the time. It actually looks pretty good if I don't ask for too much boost down low, which would choke the motor on the exhaust side from the vanes being closed too far anyways.

The only area of concern is at 4500 rpm between 20 and 30 psi, where hot temperatures will cause a slightly a lower flow rate for a given pressure and shift the points to the left, near the surge line. I did all the calculations at 85 degrees F. 120 degrees could cause an issue, but the new setup might not even see such temperatures. Hopefully my cold air intake will help prevent too much hot air from the engine bay making it to the turbo.

In the end, this is only a rough estimate of how the compressor will perform in the real world. I don't actually know what the volumetric efficiency of the motor is at any given rpm and pressure. Same goes for the brake specific fuel consumption. I might not even need 30 psi to reach my target whp, so who knows. It's nice to get an idea of what will happen, but math doesn't always match real world testing.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:00 pm

You're definitely hugging that left side pretty good. You'll be making some heat due to the lower efficiencies, but like you said....real world doesn't always follow what the math predicts.

93forestpearl · Post by **93forestpearl** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:28 pm

If I had a 2.5L, it would be perfect. The extra displacement would shift everything over about one efficiency band. It would have plenty of room for higher temps then.

From the looks of things, 4000-5000 rpm will be where I'm really flirting with surge. On Derek's car, the GT3782 compressor likes to surge around 3500 rpm. We simply backed the vanes off about 5% and the issue went away. This compressor wheel is slightly more efficient than the other wheel. 30 lb/min at 4500 rpm would be really nice though

I dunno. Its worth a shot at least. I could always put the smaller compressor back on if it doesn't work out, and hang on to it until I can sleeve the other block that I ripped the head bolt threads out of.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:21 pm

Yup, all you can do is try and see how it works out

tturnpaw · Post by **tturnpaw** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:43 am

Ill probably be the third to use that turbo on a leggy!!! lol

206er · Post by **206er** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:54 am

why dont you rip that AC crap out if youre not running it?

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UHEV Legacy Version 2.0