legacycentral bbs

Sorry, I'm a dumb ass and misread your post. Those diagrams are for the idle switch. I brain-farted and thought the idle switch was the neutral. I don't know what I was thinking when I responded. Anyhoo, you might try this post: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=17886&highlight=neutra...

Here are the other diagrams:
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting2.jpg

I had code 51 and it caused to annoyances. When I let off the gas, it would accelerate for a few seconds then act normal and when idling the RPMs flucuated. The neutral switch is builtin to the TPS. You need to properly adjust the TPS. Here's how: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_ma...

Yikes, I thought I said $100 for the sway bar. Oh well, looks like it wasn't an issue.

Where is the West Coast Subaru Show?

I ended up solving my problem: replaced the ECU. I had an ECU from a 90-91 MT N/A so I bought one from a 94 AT N/A to match my car.

All I had to adjust was the TPS because the idle switch was throwing a CEL. Now everything seems to be more responsive and smooth.

What is proper behavior for the O2 sensor voltage?

When I used the scan tool my voltage was changing rapidly. It was hard to determine what the exact voltage was but I noticed values between .04v and .93v.

Seems like something aftermarket, could be from an alarm or something.

The black connectors are for old codes; ones stored in the ECU's memory. What you want is the "d-check" mode which shows the current codes. To pull the existing codes, use only the green connectors then drive around to see if any codes appear. I've always connected both the green and black...

What about the belt idlers; how often should those be replaced?

The black connectors are for viewing previous codes; it will show all codes since the last reset. For current codes, connect only the green connectors. Connecting both sets of connectors at the same time is used for resting the ECU. Here is where I got my info: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/en...

Thanks, I'll have to hit up the junkyards. As for the gaskets, luckily my neighbor gets a discount on most parts (through his school I believe) so I just order through him.

There is a slight grinding noise when I turn (seeing as how the grease is everywhere but inside the boot) but other than that the steering is fine. Since I'm not leaking fluid, I may as well keep my rack and just replace the boot.

The boot on my driverside tie rod split in two but from what I've been reading, it seems that I should replace the entire steering rack. I've also read a bunch of conflicting information about what rack to replace with. Is the original steering rack the best option or should I go with a 97 or so GT ...

The plastic housing around the bolts on my timing belt cover are broken so only a few bolts are actually holding it on. I plan on replacing all the cover pieces and gaskets but was wondering if I can do this while the engine is still in. I will be removing the radiator but will that give enough spac...

The black connector on the upper right is the throttle position sensor and you don't want to touch that. There should be paint alignment marks so make sure it lines up properly. You can clean the IAC without removing it. Do a search and you should be able to find directions. There are 4 bolts for th...

According to the owner's manual, idling speed should be 600-800 RPMs. There should be a link to an owner's manul scan in a post under the stuff you need to know forum (along with a bunch of other service manual scans). If you have an N/A the IAC valve should only be held on by 3 bolts: two on top &a...

Sorry but I don't need the rear sway bar anymore.

I sent you an email.

I'm checking the TCU. Sorry about the confusion, I was thinking out loud about the ECU.

I got a niehoff for $25 bucks and it works fine. I've had it for several months and no issues.

Is the ECU available as well?

Is the CEL on? I had issues when I first got my 4EAT several months ago (still trying to figure some of them out). The advice I got was to start with the battery, alternator, coolant temp sensor, and proper grounding.

I used the B10 scan tool (don't have a laptop so I hauled an old tower and CRT monitor into the passenger side and ran an extension cord but hey it worked) and got that working. The tool says that my ECU is from a 90-91 MT N/A which would explain the code 49. I should probably get a replacement ECU ...

Do you have a rear sway bar?

My 4EAT does that sometimes, usually on downshifts. Sometimes at WOT, it can't decide if it wants to shift so the RPMs jump around and you can hear the engine rev up then down, up then down, etc. I took it to a tranny shop to replace the filter and fluid. The guy there said everything looked in dece...