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sold.

*sniff sniff*

I am located in San Jose but can show the car anywhere in the Peninsula up to SF.

Please see the craigslist ad for full details including a link to many pictures. Email me through craigslist for fastest response.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/739970787.html

Asking $2500, price is somewhat ...

The codes should tell you this, but are you sure the CAS is plugged in? If the coil has power, but is not getting the 'fire' signal from the ECU obviously you won't get spark.

Its been a while, but don't you have to remove the Cam angle sensor to replace one of the cam seals or water pump?

Are ...

Cleaning the battery terminals and all the grounding connections has helped - for now.

AC operational again (with my original relays - pick n pull ones seem to be bust) wiper back up to speed and she starts first turn of the key again.

I suspect that this is a temporary fix due to slightly better ...

Hi Manarius

Thanks for confirmation on the starter issue. I will make sure I order a new one pronto. I just wanted to be sure before throwing parts at it.

I am also going to clean up the battery terminals and sand all the grounding contacts before worrying about the other issues. There are a ...

Hi all,

I have been having odd electrical problems for a while now, but recently they have been getting worse. These are the symptoms, least interesting first:

- Radio reception is poor
- Rear wiper is sometimes really slow - almost stops, other times it is fine.
- AC won't turn on sometimes ...

Yep a seal puller can be had from almost any half decent auto parts store for about $10.

Its teflon coated and blunt so you won't run the risk of scratching anything. Just tap it in gently with a wooden mallet, then lever the seal out.

I actually find it quite easy to do using one of those ...

Thanks so much guys!

I will go out and fiddle with it. Haynes manuals do suck, I need to quit being cheap pick up a shop manual for the car...

I have just adjusted the pedal freeplay on the clutch a little as it was getting near the top of the pedal.

The hill holder now releases well before the clutch bites making it almost useless.

I have searched but to no avail, and the Haynes manual says take it to Subaru :roll:.

Is there any info ...

How many miles on your beast when this unfortunate fate got it?

I replaced the WP with the timing belt @ 69k miles, but the idlers were fine.

Planning to reseal the oil pump and replace the idlers/tensioner at 120k miles.

OK so Bosch are the way to go. I will try the generic auto parts stores and see what I can come up with!

Thanks,
Dave

Greetings all - long time no post!

The Subie is doing great, done nothing but oil changes since the big timing belt/water pump job and it is running like a champ.

I was out on the pitch black mountain roads last weeked, and the roads had no reflectors and worn out markings from all the ploughing ...

You did that with your torque wrench! If I were you I would cross check it with another torque wrench to make sure it is still accurate. I buggered a torque wrench of mine loosening off lugnuts before I learned the error of my ways (it was 50% out after that).

I have used the same dodgy trick ...

Aha I see - the inset hex's would cause issues thats for sure. From what you say its probably overkill anyway.

Those strap wrenches are pretty tough. I have used them for breaking camshaft bolts loose after I removed the timing belt then said 'Doh!'. Torquing them up is relatively easy compared to ...

Nice work Dave!

I can't believe that those cam sprockets are plastic! I have found a rubber strap wrench works really well for holding SOHC cam sprockets while breaking the bolts loose, but for valve-valve interference DOHCs, I think I will try to rig up a proper tool based on your experiences! It ...

Why?

Are you planning on using some kind of forced induction on said NA engine?

Just being nosey - its none of my business so feel free to be rude or ignore .

EDIT : Ignore that - I assume that the supercharger has something to do with it!

If you have an autozone nearby you can get a similar price but avoid shipping not only for the order, but for returning the core.

I would not bother packing extra grease in there if the rip is bad - it will only get flung out and its messy stuff. Plus you don't want it getting on your rotors. Just ...

I agree with vrg3 & Matt - I can't see a PCV valve leaking a lot of oil. If it did your car would likely be running like crap.

I also had the burning oil smell and oil collecting in the same places. It went away after timing belt job, where I replaced the leaking front main crank seal. WIthout ...

Dave,

Sorry for the slow response, I did not get the 2.5, and have not been around for a while.

The 'clean' car I went to see had had a smashed up front end, a bad motor mount (at least), the CEL was on, and the interior ripped up, and half replaced.

I am working on a Dodge Neon at present which ...

Steve is right on. Changing the crank on these cars is a real PITA due to the layout of the engine.

You have to pull the engine, then set about tearing the engine apart, at which point you'd be a lot better off just putting a used engine in. Doing an engine rebuild is a lot easier to get wrong than ...

I put a bit of 10w30 on mine just to help them slide home. This maybe a mistake in light of the grease theory above, but if they start leaking I will post back. So far so good.

Are you sure its not just the hydraulic lifters tapping?

If its a light clacking noise that'll be what it is. They all get a bit noisy sometimes, especially at idle. They make more of a light ticking rather the heavy knocking or clacking you'd expect from something more terminal like a bad rod ...

Dave

I might be inheriting such a beast over the coming days, and have been asking myself the same question.

However, I have looked in the haynes manual at pictures of the 2.5l cam sprockets, and each has a hex on them to hold them still while loosening the retaining bolt.

I think this should ...

There should be a notch in the accessory pulley - when thats lined up with the 0 mark on the timing protracter the engine is at TDC. At that point, the timing marks on the camshafts should be roughly aligned with the notches in the rear timing belt covers too.

Even if the belt is off a tooth or two ...

Before you go ripping it all apart, did you make sure that the plugs are firing when you ground a plug wire against the chassis? Maybe you unplugged the igniter and forgot to put it back or something?

Also maybe you can see if there are any CEL codes stored?

I would be do some debugging like this ...