legacycentral bbs

that didn't work at all for my wife's A/T. it would have bent the flex plate a LOT.

i actually used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the pulley to keep the crank from spinning and wedged it against the alternator bracket. i then took a big-ass breaker bar with extension and just turned the bolt ...

likely problem is spun rod bearing and blown head gasket. i'm not sure on which for either.

at any rate, i'm looking for a replacement vehicle for the time being. once i get a car, i'll focus on getting the wagon running again so i can sell it.

i'd love to hope it's something different

blown headgasket certainly makes sense. unfortunately, i have ZERO time to wrench on this thing, which with such low miles on it was the whole damn reason for buying it

timing belt was replaced by me with h2o pump. oil pump was inspected and re-installed at that time as well. everything looked flawless.

the car is still 45 mins away from my house. it's being towed in tomorrow morning, after that the inspection begins. first step is compression test. anyone know ...

unbelieveable. on the way to work today, it developed a severe rod knock. as i was coming home, the engine temp started going up, severe loss of power and it died. it would not idle or start up after that. nothing is visibly blown or leaking.

sad part is, it's got 115k on it. i thought these damn ...

sounds reasonable to me, obviously though, this would only work for 4eat

that's gotta be one of the worst chops i've ever seen

it's all sleeper

i'll have a full damper setup (JIC flta-1?) in the next few months, and i might drop it a touch, but not much.

after that, it's all go. it will get a turbo swap (most likely EJ20 from USDM wrx due to availability) and a standalone management system. fuel and turbo upgrades, header ...

thanks to thawa for hosting

mods/info:
1994 Subaru Legacy L Wagon 5spd
AWD
KYB GR2 shocks
Axxis Metal Master pads
front upper strut bar
muteki closed end steel lugs
OEM 14"/14lb alloys with Falken ZE-512 in 195/65
driving lights
18mm turbo wagon rear swaybar

ICE:
pioneer premier cd player
coustic ...

oh yeah, it's beneficial.... preloading!

you can actually compensate for the weight of the driver/battery/equipment/etc and perfectly balance the car by adjusting the endlinks on the swaybars

i'm not referring to adjustble lateral links, i'm referring to adjustable swaybar endlinks. the $169 is for the adjustable swaybar endlinks ONLY.

it's like $850 i think for the lateral links and endlinks.

the bushings on my OEM lateral links still look great anyway. i've only got ~115k on the ...

well, if they'll work, then that'd be sweet. no welding, and you have adjustable endlinks.

$169 is a bit pricy tho

i have never seen where the hub mounted endlink brackets bolt to, so i'm not sure if they'd work on BFs

It is off a good 5 to 6 inches, so the top should remain in its place and the bottom should come out 5 or 6 inches.

holy shit man, it's no wonder no-one would touch it. :shock: 5-6inches is WAYYY off. maybe if it was an inch or two, but FIVE... DAMN.

i think you need to be realistic here. even ...

wow, i'm VERY interested in this buildup. being a former honda guy, i LOVE NA setups. please post as much as you can about it.

i'm curious to know what makes it a 2.5L versus the 2.2? is it in the stroke, bore?

i can't even imagine what a high CR boxer would sound like with i/h/e and big cams

you ...

here's my take:

if a professional collision repair shop with a precision frame straightener will not fix it for you, it's time to junk it.

99% of completing any automotive work is having the right tool.

i picked up an OEM turbo wagon rear swaybar from a legacycentral member, and installed it today.

instead of swapping over new lateral links and using crappy drop links, i converted it over to the GC/WRX style "C" style endlinks. i welded on 4 "tabs" to the NA lateral links, and positioned them ...

just do it yourself. it takes ~1hr to do and every reman axle i've ever bought is ~$70+ $75 core

you'll need a 32mm socket for the axle nut

yes, use rain-X. no need for a wiper then

can't you just rip it out and weld a sheet in place , then do the body work ? am i missing something ?

no, it's defnitely NOT that easy. the roof is extremely thin, any welding will result in IMMEDIATE warping

IMO, just remove the sunroof and plug it with a sheet of aluminum/CF/lexan/etc. honda ...

i highly doubt rebuilding is free, i also doubt it's $400, too.

however, i'd prefer to pay for a NEW product and know that is hasn't been abused.

i'm just researching options right now. i plan to drop $1000-1200 into a full damper. i've seen them "on sale" thru vendors on NASIOC for $1050 shipped

well, i'm definitely looking for stiff, but i'd keep the 7k/5k rates. the car will be far more for autoX than rallyX.

any comments on longevity?
can they be rebuilt in the USA?

anyone have experience with the JIC flta-1s? rates for GC6/8 are 7kg/5kg

are they adequately damped?

it will be for daily driving and regular autoX/rallyx. pricing is right, and i like the features they offer.

Legacy777 wrote:curb weight is the dry weight

FYI, curb weight is NOT dry. it includes all fuilds at nominal level